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/r/Surfing
- Thread starter Ifallalot
- Start date
lol, my limited experiences at the hook tell me that expecting anything other than complete barnyard-fuckery is very ignorant.
Am I wrong?
Am I wrong?
HAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHA
My old bosses name is Rob, he retired and moved closer to the point about 2 years ago.. just fwd that thread to him..
Why are you such a dick Rob?
When I surf in NJ its usually with friendly people or at least most are polite.
Sometimes when it pumps theres so many rides nobody even thinks about chest-thumpin.
Sometimes when it pumps theres so many rides nobody even thinks about chest-thumpin.
I was having a guitar repaired by a guy who is a pretty well known classical guitar builder. I noticed he had an old sticker in his workshop that indicated he used to shape boards. I asked him about it and he said he didn't surf anymore. Told me about a day at rincon where the water was mud but him and a friend scored amazing waves in an almost empty lineup.
He said he went to the hook on a LB and got vibed and yelled at and it soured him so much he said f&6K it. Figured surfing had been taken over by younger folks who happened to be compete as%h^les. He didn't understand the LB hate at the hook......a dude from costa, a pretty good surfer, said the same. Said he paddled out and someone told him no LB's at the hook. He didn't get it either. He told me he said to the guy I won't take a wave till all you MFer's get one. They still didn't let up on him. And a third guy, also a good surfer, told me parents on the cliffs were yelling at their kids to burn him cause he was on a LB. He is a type of dude who doesn't give a f^7k......said he'll surf it when he wants, on whatever, but makes the concession of surfing it without a leash.
He said he went to the hook on a LB and got vibed and yelled at and it soured him so much he said f&6K it. Figured surfing had been taken over by younger folks who happened to be compete as%h^les. He didn't understand the LB hate at the hook......a dude from costa, a pretty good surfer, said the same. Said he paddled out and someone told him no LB's at the hook. He didn't get it either. He told me he said to the guy I won't take a wave till all you MFer's get one. They still didn't let up on him. And a third guy, also a good surfer, told me parents on the cliffs were yelling at their kids to burn him cause he was on a LB. He is a type of dude who doesn't give a f^7k......said he'll surf it when he wants, on whatever, but makes the concession of surfing it without a leash.
Not anymore.
More and more it's soccer moms and a school sport. Bobby Martinez was right. It's tennis. The subculture is dead. Moms and dads invaded. All their precious seeds are gonna be pros. So please move out the way they're trying to get a photo-op.
The Hook is alot. I used to surf there quite a bit. Can be a fun wave but it's a bad combo; young and old rippers, complete kooks that just rented boards and the shop a couple hundred yards up the street, and longboarders.
Was up on Santa Cruz this past weekend and had fun at two crowded spots.
Was up on Santa Cruz this past weekend and had fun at two crowded spots.
Surfed a grom-future-pro infested spot last week, lots of cameras on the beach.
It started to rain.
Suddenly I was one of 4 people in the water.
Or Makaha.
My last fun session at Topanga was in 1982
its possible - if theres some size Ill sit a little wide on the elbow and pick off great waves all the way into the bay, but it has to be a really good swell. otherwise its just "local" guy dropping in on other "local" guy and lots of bad vibes like I said if Im in the mood for it that could be fun too.
I surfed Rockpile Right a couple of weeks ago to see if my twin fin could go backside. It was small and not very crowded. I knew everyone out there except one guy. I was sitting deep so I could go left but get the occasional long shot right. A set came right to me, a right and that guy I didn’t know paddled around me and went. The regulars knew him and called him into a couple other sets. Alan. He paddled around me at least once more. The next day I asked Bruce who was out who that guy was that dogged me. Bruce said he used to do that to him too but after Bruce has been going out to surf the rights a lot he doesn’t anymore. Bruce told me you should’ve burned him. I said no way that’s his spot that’s what he should be doing. But he better expect the same treatment if he paddles out to Bowls or Rockpile Lefts. I was happy a local guy was holding it down, even if it was a small day at an afterthought kinda spot. Regulators mount up.
Me neither. I actually surf there quite a bit, plenty of places to crash and a short drive to work, plus I get sick of beach breaks. There are definitely locals that want to be grumpy, but I just pretty much pretend I'm deaf and that works pretty well.