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Good surfer from around here took a board to the groin and split his pelvis down there. lots of hardware holding his skeleton together . . .I wonder how many guys have had life-changing injuries there?
Many - and at least a few deaths/year too.I wonder how many guys have had life-changing injuries there?
If other canyon-fed beachbreaks on North America's Pacific coast are any indication, it's because in season, it's very hard to get it completely unrideable. When you live in TX or FL you don't want to get disappointed on a trip. I don't buy the so many better waves for a second and I bet the ones that you are claiming are better have far fewer HH-DOH days and infinity crowds if they're not beachbreaks where beatdowns of the inside and cleanup variety are routinely issued.Curious - what's the draw?
Being a notorious closeout/surf porn wave I've always wondered this.
There are so many better waves on the planet - of all the waves to put you in a wheelchair or kill you - that's the one to choose?
Always seems like a lot of guys from TX and FL love it.
Warm
affordable
short trip from US
intense tubes
Proximity to other world class and or rippable waves.
It's either your thing or it's not.
That's such an important factor -- the three hour slogs from airport to coast in some Centro locales are too much for my fussy ass.I forgot to add that it's a 5-10 minute ride to the airport.
Some places, arrival and departure are full day, non-surf days.That's such an important factor -- the three hour slogs from airport to coast in some Centro locales are too much for my fussy ass.
Buddy of mine was on a tow-board on a big day there...was in a massive barrel that closed on him...felt his leg just explode, took a couple more on the head with his leg dangling. Ski driver grabbed him and went straight to the beach. Ex-pat doc there did the best he could with the leg then buddy-cat had to spend some time in Mexico City. Then got flown home in a Lear at low altitude...definitely life-changing..I wonder how many guys have had life-changing injuries there?
Low altitude?Buddy of mine was on a tow-board on a big day there...was in a massive barrel that closed on him...felt his leg just explode, took a couple more on the head with his leg dangling. Ski driver grabbed him and went straight to the beach. Ex-pat doc there did the best he could with the leg then buddy-cat had to spend some time in Mexico City. Then got flown home in a Lear at low altitude...definitely life-changing..
I think they were worried about the pressure difference with blood clots...something like that anyway...Low altitude?