Paul Theroux's New Book on Aging Big Wave Rider Drops Today...

rossky

OTF status
Apr 4, 2006
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This book is laughably bad. It's like someone adapted "North Shore" for the page, with some elements of "In God's Hands" thrown in. I don't know why people who don't surf are drawn to writing about surfing. I'm barely into the book and I don't know if there are any more cliches about surfing, surfers, or Hawaii left. Theroux should've stuck to what he knows and does best. This ain't it.
 
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bluemarlin04

Michael Peterson status
Aug 13, 2015
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This book is laughably bad. It's like someone adapted "North Shore" for the page, with some elements of "In God's Hands" thrown in. I don't know why people who don't surf are drawn to writing about surfing. I'm barely into the book and I don't know if there are any more cliches about surfing, surfers, or Hawaii left. Theroux should've stuck to what he knows and does best. This ain't it.
I am trying really hard to finish it. But damn its nothing like hotel honolulu.
 

rossky

OTF status
Apr 4, 2006
297
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I enjoyed "The Happy Isles of Oceania," but that could've been situational as I read it while sailing the Pacific.
 

SurfFuerteventura

Phil Edwards status
Sep 20, 2014
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hulling, mostly...
reading anything surf related, 'cept of course this here erBB, is already highly suspect.

surf related literature normally leaves me a bit intellectually unsatisfied. if I'm going to read, it's going to be something worth reading.

cannot say that I remember ANY surf related literature. and I know I've read plenty... just goes to show.

literature is so rich and deep, why waste time reading something you have more fun doing?

:shrug:

don't even talk to the people in the parking lot anymore. total dissonance, MP levels even.

surfers bore to no end, clog up parking, and the line-up. people who ride waves stylishly on the other hand, few and far between, and not too many of them interesting enough to read.

only exception that comes to mind: Derek Hynd
 
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rice

Duke status
Jul 2, 2002
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CA
This book is laughably bad. It's like someone adapted "North Shore" for the page, with some elements of "In God's Hands" thrown in. I don't know why people who don't surf are drawn to writing about surfing. I'm barely into the book and I don't know if there are any more cliches about surfing, surfers, or Hawaii left. Theroux should've stuck to what he knows and does best. This ain't it.
I read the one page excerpt in the Surfers Journal and... no thanks.
 

Autoprax

Duke status
Jan 24, 2011
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Vagina Point
Like I said, I think surfers would have trouble with this book.

Only because you know the tropes too well.

I wonder if you were a pimp and you read St Jack if you would have the same reaction as a surfer has to this book?

When I watch a moving about teaching, they always get it wrong.
 
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rowjimmytour

Kelly Slater status
Feb 7, 2009
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Rbeach
Like I said, I think surfer's would have trouble with this book.

Only because you know the tropes too well.

I wonder if you were a pimp and you read St Jack if you would have the same reaction as a surfer has to this book?

When I watch a moving about teaching, they always get it wrong.
Autoprax I always thought this was accurate:foreheadslap:
 

afoaf

Duke status
Jun 25, 2008
40,199
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I enjoyed "The Happy Isles of Oceania," but that could've been situational as I read it while sailing the Pacific.
this is how I like to read

I'm running out of mexico books and you can only gaze in to the abyss of McCarthy
for so long before the abyss of McCarthy gazes in to you
 
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bluemarlin04

Michael Peterson status
Aug 13, 2015
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I got a dozen pages into it and couldn't continue. I found the "aging surf star" to be both irritating and uninteresting.
Not too mention his background of a trust fund moron.

Why do I want to read about some rich selfish a hole who spent his life surfing.
 

_____

Phil Edwards status
Sep 17, 2012
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He doesn't surf (?) so it's fine with me that he mashes up Jock Sutherland and a bunch of other surf legends into one fictional character. It's more refreshing than a certain surf author's self absorbed self. I haven't found time to bury my head into it and knock out yet.
 

Bob

Michael Peterson status
Apr 23, 2001
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Oxnard
"This book is laughably bad. I I don't know why people who don't surf are drawn to writing about surfing. I'm barely into the book and I don't know if there are any more cliches about surfing, surfers, or Hawaii left. Theroux should've stuck to what he knows and does best. This ain't it."

I read exactly 51 pages and it took awhile to do that. The book is not very good. Cringe worthy is a terrific description.
 

bluemarlin04

Michael Peterson status
Aug 13, 2015
2,276
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"This book is laughably bad. I I don't know why people who don't surf are drawn to writing about surfing. I'm barely into the book and I don't know if there are any more cliches about surfing, surfers, or Hawaii left. Theroux should've stuck to what he knows and does best. This ain't it."

I read exactly 51 pages and it took awhile to do that. The book is not very good. Cringe worthy is a terrific description.
I couldn't get past about page 75.

And the big moke who sends the pot to his house is supposed to be Junior Moepono? Thats my guess.