Under The Wave At Waimea: Theroux, Paul: 9780358446286: Books
Under The Wave At Waimea: Theroux, Paul: 9780358446286: Books
www.amazon.com
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Paul Theroux's New Book on Aging Big Wave Rider Drops Today...
- Thread starter Pyhtagorous
- Start date
welcome back oh one who hails from Bali?
I got my copy yesterday
I think surfers will read it for verisimilitude and feel like PT will come up short.
I will read it for PT's crazy fun and dry humor.
(Good thing I officially quit surfing.)
That PT is still hard at work at 80 makes me happy.
I think surfers will read it for verisimilitude and feel like PT will come up short.
I will read it for PT's crazy fun and dry humor.
(Good thing I officially quit surfing.)
That PT is still hard at work at 80 makes me happy.
I am already somewhat deep into it and as expected, while some of the descriptions of surfing are undeniably cringe-worthy to the gnard-core cognoscenti, they at the same time also offer new and fresh views into a subject we think we know well. Not unlike Jack London's at first jarring “Ah, delicious moment when I felt that breaker grip and fling me. On I dashed, a hundred and fifty feet, and subsided with the breaker on the sand. From that moment I was lost.” And he certainly writes better than anyone else who has tackled the subject in recent times other than perhaps William Finnigan, (An old friend of his).
Jamie Brisick is very close to Paul and was the sounding board for much of the surfing terminology and jargon, but there were quite a few others. The main character, Joe Sharkey was very loosely based on his long term friendship with Garret McNamara. This is in a sense a coming home for Theroux who has been a 30+ year resident of the North Shore and has long dreamed of setting a story against that backdrop.
So is the main character Joe Sharkey. I share your opinion and have had long talks with Paul about exactly that, he knows what he's doing. Incidentally, my mom who also lives on the NS is quite close to GM's mother, but has in the last several years distanced herself from her as she has gone deep down the wormhole of both born again evangelical Christianity and hard core conspiracy riddled Trumpism. That alone is plenty cring-worthy.
whaddayathink, ya can just show up here whenever some odd euclidian geometrical urge strikes you ?
would be optimal if this is a well-crafted imp,
here to cause erbb trouble in the near future.
am hoping...
yeah, and he's already got another one out?!
I didn't even have time to get the boys to Oaxaca for Dia de la Muerte yet....
I didn't even have time to get the boys to Oaxaca for Dia de la Muerte yet....
If you are able to write 4 hours a day 7 days a week, sh!t gets done.
(I'm not.)
He said that he's half way through his next novel.
Also, getting close to death will make some people really start cranking sh!t out because you know the end it near.
He could't come up with a better name than Joe Sharkey?
As far as big wave books go, it looks like Derek Dunfee wrote a book. While I'm not particularly interested, the tease of "why I don't ride big waves anymore" is somewhat interesting to me. From the looks of it it might be a combination of his photography and his writing that he's been honing for a bit with his Dekka 'zine.
https://www.derekdunfee.com/store/waking-up-in-the-sea-by-derek-dunfee
As far as big wave books go, it looks like Derek Dunfee wrote a book. While I'm not particularly interested, the tease of "why I don't ride big waves anymore" is somewhat interesting to me. From the looks of it it might be a combination of his photography and his writing that he's been honing for a bit with his Dekka 'zine.
https://www.derekdunfee.com/store/waking-up-in-the-sea-by-derek-dunfee