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welcome back oh one who hails from Bali?
I am already somewhat deep into it and as expected, while some of the descriptions of surfing are undeniably cringe-worthy to the gnard-core cognoscenti, they at the same time also offer new and fresh views into a subject we think we know well. Not unlike Jack London's at first jarring “Ah, delicious moment when I felt that breaker grip and fling me. On I dashed, a hundred and fifty feet, and subsided with the breaker on the sand. From that moment I was lost.” And he certainly writes better than anyone else who has tackled the subject in recent times other than perhaps William Finnigan, (An old friend of his).I got my copy yesterday
I think surfers will read it for verisimilitude and feel like PT will come up short.
I will read it for PT's crazy fun and dry humor.
(Good thing I officially quit surfing.)
That PT is still hard at work at 80 makes me happy.
So is the main character Joe Sharkey. I share your opinion and have had long talks with Paul about exactly that, he knows what he's doing. Incidentally, my mom who also lives on the NS is quite close to GM's mother, but has in the last several years distanced herself from her as she has gone deep down the wormhole of both born again evangelical Christianity and hard core conspiracy riddled Trumpism. That alone is plenty cring-worthy.GARRETT = CRINGE-WORTHY
whaddayathink, ya can just show up here whenever some odd euclidian geometrical urge strikes you ?
If you are able to write 4 hours a day 7 days a week, sh!t gets done.this guy fkn hustles!
didn't Plain of Snakes just come out?