Over 50 and still surfing thread - Old Mans Point.

One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,230
10,430
113
33.8N - 118.4W
This AM a young guy (20 something) kept talking to me every time I paddled back out. He was raving how uncrowded it was (he normally surfed El Porto), how fun it was, telling me about the surf in North Carolina (where he's from), his job (he' a nurse and girlfriend a physical therapist). It was little annoying because I had to take off my hood to hear him and then if I duck dove or caught a wave my right ear would fill with water and I couldn't get it out.

At a certain point he said, "Excuse me but....how old are you?" I said, "60." And he said, "I want to be like you."

I gave him some advice,- "Wear a hood or use earplugs....and do deadlifts."
 

b.r.

Phil Edwards status
Dec 19, 2003
5,937
3,074
113
Leucadia
www.youtube.com
I was surfing a local reef one day and it was clean and juicy and uncrowded (the rare trifecta) and my friend looked in and said oh well here they come as a few people were paddling out. I caught a bigger left and did two pumps and tagged the section came down and 2 more pumps and tagged the backside roundhouse. One of the guys paddled out and sat next to me, I said hello, and he says that its so inspiring to see a silver hair (silverback I can’t remember) do some turns like that. I laughed and said the blind squirrel finds a nut. Turns out he was Shaun Whites coach. Nice guy. It’s funny we get a lot of the “extreme sports “ people around here. Surfed with Norwegian Hellman snowboarder Mads Johnson when he was living here getting his helicopter pilots license.
 

SurfFuerteventura

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Sep 20, 2014
8,447
4,634
113
Ribbit
Kelly in Round One showed perfectly how it feels to surf in cold windy weather when over 50.

:shameonyou::socrazy::nana::monkey::poke:

Hard to motivate for 'those kind' of conditions.
 
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potato-nator

Phil Edwards status
Nov 10, 2015
6,066
1,283
113
This AM a young guy (20 something) kept talking to me every time I paddled back out. He was raving how uncrowded it was (he normally surfed El Porto), how fun it was, telling me about the surf in North Carolina (where he's from), his job (he' a nurse and girlfriend a physical therapist). It was little annoying because I had to take off my hood to hear him and then if I duck dove or caught a wave my right ear would fill with water and I couldn't get it out.

At a certain point he said, "Excuse me but....how old are you?" I said, "60." And he said, "I want to be like you."

I gave him some advice,- "Wear a hood or use earplugs....and do deadlifts."
the standard skin cancer warning too..
 

Witchipoo

Michael Peterson status
Jun 16, 2010
2,401
403
83
East of Malibu
unless ur kneelo guy, taking off on ur knees is lame.

injury and disability aside, if you havent figured out equipment, wave selection and positioning for a low drama take off by the time ur 50, you are

either a val
a kook
or a val kook

lots of guys getting barreled and ripping into their 60's.

don't make excuses. if you have been surfing for 40+ years you know what to do

Wow, not that you're a judgmental dick or anything.:dancing::dancing::dancing::dancing:

I have a chronic low back / hip problem that keeps me from being able to pop up smoothly without spending a couple of seconds on one knee. It's always been like that, and over the years I've had to deal with a lot of douchebags using it as an excuse to backpaddle and drop in on me. If I say anything, they call me "kneeboarder," like it's the worst insult they can think of.

Sorry, but you're the kooks.
 

One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,230
10,430
113
33.8N - 118.4W
Wow, not that you're a judgmental dick or anything.:dancing::dancing::dancing::dancing:

I have a chronic low back / hip problem that keeps me from being able to pop up smoothly without spending a couple of seconds on one knee. It's always been like that, and over the years I've had to deal with a lot of douchebags using it as an excuse to backpaddle and drop in on me. If I say anything, they call me "kneeboarder," like it's the worst insult they can think of.

Sorry, but you're the kooks.
People don't appreciate other's maladies until they're "walking in those shoes." I was an arrogant prick as recently as a few years ago, convinced I would ride my 6-0 until I was six feet under. Now I make no apologies for riding a 6-11 or 8-3. If I ever see a kneeboarding lady at First Point I'll make sure to say "hi," but I tend to avoid that mess for lesser (less crowded) spots.
 

doc_flavonoid

Michael Peterson status
Dec 27, 2019
1,791
3,288
113
Wow, not that you're a judgmental dick or anything.:dancing::dancing::dancing::dancing:

I have a chronic low back / hip problem that keeps me from being able to pop up smoothly without spending a couple of seconds on one knee. It's always been like that, and over the years I've had to deal with a lot of douchebags using it as an excuse to backpaddle and drop in on me. If I say anything, they call me "kneeboarder," like it's the worst insult they can think of.

Sorry, but you're the kooks.

hi witchi. trigger much? im 59. how old are you?. i suspect old enough. but it is a surf forum full of bs so in case you missed it i wrote "injury and disability aside" as in "to indicate that one is dismissing something from consideration"

so yeah even though i am a judgemental dick, i am old enough to get it.

and since we are talking old... i longboarded with old ben yesterday. this is norcal and its cold but it was clean. i had been getting some fun lefts on the 10' tak and it drew old ben out of the lot.

now ben is in his mid 70's at this point and his surf days are numbered. so much so that up until yesterday i hadnt seen him get to feet since summer. he's been knee riding and bellying on his home shaped 8-0 all fall and winter.

so he paddles out and sits just inside and deeper while we chat a bit and as is my way with the uncles i keep the nose of my board pointed to the horizon and let everything run under.

and old ben goes on a tear. he's getting to his feet wave after wave and owning the session. he's stoked and after every wave he takes back his spot just under me and spins and goes again.

now for as stoked as i am for him, to be honest its getting a little frustrating. it is cold and i need a couple before i go so i leave the left to ben and move over to the right so as not to break his run. which actually worked out great for me.

so yeah witchi like i said injury or disability aside...
you'd have no problem getting your waves around me.
 

Witchipoo

Michael Peterson status
Jun 16, 2010
2,401
403
83
East of Malibu
hi witchi. trigger much? im 59. how old are you?. i suspect old enough. but it is a surf forum full of bs so in case you missed it i wrote "injury and disability aside" as in "to indicate that one is dismissing something from consideration"

so yeah even though i am a judgemental dick, i am old enough to get it.

and since we are talking old... i longboarded with old ben yesterday. this is norcal and its cold but it was clean. i had been getting some fun lefts on the 10' tak and it drew old ben out of the lot.

now ben is in his mid 70's at this point and his surf days are numbered. so much so that up until yesterday i hadnt seen him get to feet since summer. he's been knee riding and bellying on his home shaped 8-0 all fall and winter.

so he paddles out and sits just inside and deeper while we chat a bit and as is my way with the uncles i keep the nose of my board pointed to the horizon and let everything run under.

and old ben goes on a tear. he's getting to his feet wave after wave and owning the session. he's stoked and after every wave he takes back his spot just under me and spins and goes again.

now for as stoked as i am for him, to be honest its getting a little frustrating. it is cold and i need a couple before i go so i leave the left to ben and move over to the right so as not to break his run. which actually worked out great for me.

so yeah witchi like i said injury or disability aside...
you'd have no problem getting your waves around me.
I'm 59 too, and I want to be one of those geezers and geezeresses getting waves until I can't get to the water. Sorry for biting your head off, but yeah, it's a bummer knowing that some people are thinking I don't belong out there because I can't surf pretty. The thing some people don't realize is, just because someone doesn't surf as well as you doesn't mean it means any less to them. Waves are like medicine, and we're all out there because we need it. Or something.
 

SurfFuerteventura

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Sep 20, 2014
8,447
4,634
113
Ribbit
If OT was around he’d remind you that getting old is not for wimps. OTF too.
Or you could have Larry's 'luck' (surfwordz) and not only not get to surf until your over 50, or 60 even... let alone see your grandkids grow out of their daipers.

:shameonyou:

New over 50 erBB rulez:

1-) I will surf as often as the conditions, and my body, allow.

2-) I will not give a Fook about what anyone else thinks of my grecian formula popup, or lack thereof.

Please add to list as needed

YMMV.

:waving::shaka:
 

One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,230
10,430
113
33.8N - 118.4W
My "problem" is, apart from white hair (which you can't see when I'm wearng a hood), you can't see my ailments- the sore shoulder and neck and back. Other uncles may have similar or worse maladies that are not apparent.

What Witchipoo said- "...just because someone doesn't surf as well as you doesn't mean it means any less to them." That's going to be my new signature line.

ps the line was too long so I used the next sentence. Waves are like medicine...
 
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GromsDad

Duke status
Jan 21, 2014
54,771
16,663
113
West of the Atlantic. East of the ICW.
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Bud

Nep status
Apr 20, 2001
910
792
93
Oahu
www.808surfer.com
assuming I live for another couple months I'll be 59yo. yesterday I decided to go hoggin and my (18yo) son wanted to tag along. He enjoys bodywhompin bodyboarding and many other ocean activities; took him surfing bunch of times from small kid time to growing up, but he never really caught the surf bug, and I never pushed it. He can handle himself, knows the rules and can stand up, going mostly straight. That's him turning turtle on the wavestorm just before I catch the wave behind. I'm on a backyard 5'4 x 18.25 HP quad. Good funday in the sun with my middle kid & the small mushy surf

 

SeaFoamGreen

Gerry Lopez status
Apr 10, 2009
1,250
681
113
NorOR
Getting close to paddling out at Old Mans Point. Was inspired In HI last week. Meet some 50+, 60+, and even 70+ uncles getting after it on the daily, some of them still ripping on HPSBs. Hopefully I'll be able to pull the rip cord around 60 for much warmer warmer waters and shed the 5 mill. I think that tropo (or close to) lifestyle is key. I seem to feel less aches and pains in warmer climates.
 

~rwright~

Michael Peterson status
Apr 14, 2015
2,539
967
113
Los Angeles~California!
Wow, not that you're a judgmental dick or anything.:dancing::dancing::dancing::dancing:
I have a chronic low back / hip problem that keeps me from being able to pop up smoothly without spending a couple of seconds on one knee. It's always been like that, and over the years I've had to deal with a lot of douchebags using it as an excuse to backpaddle and drop in on me. If I say anything, they call me "kneeboarder," like it's the worst insult they can think of.
Sorry, but you're the kooks.
wa~ga!
Witchipoo,
livin' it, seen below, still surfin' ~ yow!
LA surfpix~02.JPG
+
Witchipoo~01.JPG
jam ~on, surfer!
rw
:jamon: