Oneill Ninja full face hood - WTF!?


Duke status
Jan 21, 2014
West of the Atlantic. East of the ICW.
crazy currents on days like that?
Basically like surfing in a river sometimes. Catch a lull and paddle out at the rocks and hope you sneak out without getting swept out of the zone. Hope to get a wave quick and ride it all the way in. Walk up the beach, rinse and repeat. If you get swept out of the zone you're often not getting back under paddle power and you'll waste too much energy trying. Better to just take a small wave in and start over. Doing laps.
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