"Ollie O'Flaherty's Lucky Escape At Riley's" - Raw Footage

Boneroni

Tom Curren status
Mar 5, 2012
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Goleta
Whoa. That was heavy and he was able to get to safety.
IMO, this is a great example of someone who's amazing at a necessary but peripheral skill.
Surfing is the main skill and the goal we are after, but getting washed over rocks and navigating reef currents safely is a needed skill in many areas.
I was just thinking about this the other day. I think I'm probably a better rock dancer than I am a surfer. I don't have the best style (see: spazz) but the functionality of my rock hopping, barnacle navigation, ell-grass sliding, and kelp wrangling is more impressive than my best turn (which is sometimes a bottom turn :roflmao: )

I've also realized that, over the years, I've honed the skill of taking off my clothes quickly. That skill has come in handy occasionally too.