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Great quote, I told you about the rail wrap!Perhaps not error, but deliberately not handing out an example of his rail intellectual property?
Greg sent me this email in 2017
Gregory Griffin wrote:
Late 60’s Mike Hynson validated the downrail , it had no tuck like the tail of modern boards
Dick brewer modified it by putting a small round contact point for control - suction -
This tucked edge design is the most efficient rail shape and can be adjusted in many ways
Flat surface before edge then tuck for suction - vary the size of tuck for how much is desired .
Then at the top of this tuck pull the rail inward to release that suction off of it
If the transition of the edge is smooth into the tuck it does not sheet water off , it climbs the tuck then releases where the rail pulls in toward the deck , if you build an edge at the bottom it does drift more .
That angle of the rail and size of it controls penetration
3 parts creating this engineered rail shape
I will draw up one
I think I understand what he is saying, although I'm still at the painting by numbers/trial and error stage when it comes to putting it into practise and making myself a rail with the desired proportion of properties.
He didn't make the diagram in case anyone is wondering.
Believe that one was a custom I ordered: Cheater 5 fin/quad shortboard with a touch more tail rockersomeones sellin this on fb
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5’7 Greg Griffin Mod Fish 5 Surfboard
$350
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Door pickup
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5’7 x 19 3/4 x 2 3/8 Modfish 5 - Excellent Condition
- Condition
Used - like new
The error is in the outline.Perhaps not error, but deliberately not handing out an example of his rail intellectual property?
Greg sent me this email in 2017
Gregory Griffin wrote:
Late 60’s Mike Hynson validated the downrail , it had no tuck like the tail of modern boards
Dick brewer modified it by putting a small round contact point for control - suction -
This tucked edge design is the most efficient rail shape and can be adjusted in many ways
Flat surface before edge then tuck for suction - vary the size of tuck for how much is desired .
Then at the top of this tuck pull the rail inward to release that suction off of it
If the transition of the edge is smooth into the tuck it does not sheet water off , it climbs the tuck then releases where the rail pulls in toward the deck , if you build an edge at the bottom it does drift more .
That angle of the rail and size of it controls penetration
3 parts creating this engineered rail shape
I will draw up one
I think I understand what he is saying, although I'm still at the painting by numbers/trial and error stage when it comes to putting it into practise and making myself a rail with the desired proportion of properties.
He didn't make the diagram in case anyone is wondering.
@Senor Sopa I was thinking about your explanation when I dug up that old email from Greg and I am glad you called me out and picked up on that.Great quote, I told you about the rail wrap!
The CNC guys always want to put rails on my files, gotta shape that crisp tuck by hand!I just realized that I still have Greg's file for my 5'6 twin/twinzer. Hit me up if you want it, and I can dig it up and send it to you.
Caveat: there's an error in it somewhere and you'll still need to hand shape the rails. My friend who cut it, said, "you should've just hand shaped this."
edit: but you might have to do something nice for need4speed to make you some fins for it
Yes, best to produce a file with reduced tuck then add it by hand. One thing I have been taught is not to produce a super fine hard edge in the tail rails - it just makes it harder to wrap the glass and get the air bubbles out, instead shape it hard then take a little of the corner off. The resin dam and sanding is what produces a pro standard hard edge.The CNC guys always want to put rails on my files, gotta shape that crisp tuck by hand!