10/10 waves at the kelp patch.
6-5 driver.
Torched.
6-5 driver.
Torched.
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*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter b.r.
- Start date
Nice one, Ruker
Looked and felt like Indo this morning. Glassy and really humid, so had that soft tropical haze. Very pretty waves, but somehow hard to get lots of good ones even though not crowded.
Went out again late morning at high tide. 4 guys at Outer point, all of them going in as I paddled out saying really slow. Fricken pumped for an hour and I never waited more than 30 sec for a wave. HH.
5 paddled out and it died. Unbelievable luck, but I'll take it.
Looked and felt like Indo this morning. Glassy and really humid, so had that soft tropical haze. Very pretty waves, but somehow hard to get lots of good ones even though not crowded.
Went out again late morning at high tide. 4 guys at Outer point, all of them going in as I paddled out saying really slow. Fricken pumped for an hour and I never waited more than 30 sec for a wave. HH.
5 paddled out and it died. Unbelievable luck, but I'll take it.
Went north with the wifey, again, and again left later than anticipated. Caught it from low tide to super f'ing low tide. Got a few fun ones the first hour but it was ruined by hour two. Gave up at about an hour forty-five and hit the high road home.
Rode the Lovelace - loving it madly. Until the tide killed it, all was great. Then it was just pathetic trying to get something, a lull of about 15 minutes hit, and then a flurry of small ones when I decided I'd go in. Caught two, neither all that great, and bellied in.
Warm shower. Feeling good. Saw and made some new old friends. Good day in the books.
Tomorrow should be amazing - and I'm working all day. Thanks for nothing, clients!
Rode the Lovelace - loving it madly. Until the tide killed it, all was great. Then it was just pathetic trying to get something, a lull of about 15 minutes hit, and then a flurry of small ones when I decided I'd go in. Caught two, neither all that great, and bellied in.
Warm shower. Feeling good. Saw and made some new old friends. Good day in the books.
Tomorrow should be amazing - and I'm working all day. Thanks for nothing, clients!
Was down with the flu for an earlier this week, so just a couple get wet surfs in the last 3 days. The local reef was looking better than other spots around but was real crowded with younger crew home for the holidays. Too much for me in my recovery state, so I opted for smaller, less-lined up spots. Caught a bunch of waves, and did a few wiggles on the slot channel twin. Varial Plasmic still going strong after a couple years with the same pop as when I got it. Needed a little more push, as most fizzled out, but nice to get wet. Salt water sinus rinse definitely helped clear my head. Hoping for some waves this week.
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Still not feeling well and had the little kids most of the day so snuck off with my oldest son for an afternoon session. Went left at a world class right point break. If you checked it for less than 10min you would think it was dead flat but every once in awhile a waist to shoulder high wave would come through.
Too many guys out at first and a weird vibe. Was dead calm and everyone was just sitting there bobbing around silently in between 1 wave sets. Was thinking to myself that’s why I don’t usually bother there. Had to burn a guy after 20min then pull out to just get my feet in the wax.
Crowd thinned out and my son and I both got some fun, steep little lefts. Tried an epoxy 6’0 flyer knock off my friend gave me that I’ve only ridden on closeout struggle sessions previously. Worked really good, got a few snaps in the pocket. Tide drained way out and it got even more inconsistent.Tomorrow should be fun if I can find a window during the work day.
Too many guys out at first and a weird vibe. Was dead calm and everyone was just sitting there bobbing around silently in between 1 wave sets. Was thinking to myself that’s why I don’t usually bother there. Had to burn a guy after 20min then pull out to just get my feet in the wax.
Crowd thinned out and my son and I both got some fun, steep little lefts. Tried an epoxy 6’0 flyer knock off my friend gave me that I’ve only ridden on closeout struggle sessions previously. Worked really good, got a few snaps in the pocket. Tide drained way out and it got even more inconsistent.Tomorrow should be fun if I can find a window during the work day.
One fun one.
mowed down and bomb dodged much
If yesterday was 10/10 at the kelp patch, today was 11/10.
Slightly smaller but still well overhead and no big closeout sets to duckdive.
Rode the 7'2" AG twin w/ keels. Been a while. Instantly fell into the groove with it.
Slightly smaller but still well overhead and no big closeout sets to duckdive.
Rode the 7'2" AG twin w/ keels. Been a while. Instantly fell into the groove with it.
Checked it at 8 and came back. I wanted to paddle out around 9 but a friend convinced me to wait.
Took the big board out for its maiden voyage around 11:30 with a buddy. We walked about 6 blocks north to get out.
Paddled out pretty easily north of the main zone and tried to hang up there and avoid being dragged into the thick of it.
The current wasn't fast, but it was steadily dragging out and to the south, and increasing as the tide fell
.
I paddled for the majority of the first 90 minutes to hold position there looking for a few softer warm up waves. I let 2 go right when I got out out of respect for guys who were there already. Nobody got them
. After some long lulls and being pulled out of position repeatedly, I finally abandoned the warm up zone and allowed myself to get dragged into the thick of it.No sooner had I said "fuck it, let's see what happens", did a set appear on the horizon. I was the farthest out and actually hesitated before realizing this thing was going to break! I paddled so hard, for what felt like so long, scraping through the first, second, and third bomb that my shoulders were starting to cramp when I saw the 4th. I scratched under it knowing that if there was another one I would be taking it on the head.
I was rattled after that and I ended up getting swept through the main zone, not even having a look at one, where everyone was getting bombs. By then it was 1:00 and the tide was still draining. I might have drifted past @kool-aid as I allowed myself to get pulled further and further away to a mellower zone. Eventually, I took a smaller, shitty one in on my backhand and got out at Sloat. Roughly 10 blocks away from where I started.
2 hours, one awful wave in that was more of a method of transportation from harms way than an actual attempt at wave riding. Humbling.
after 2 days of glassy all day but not enough swell i went. swell had picked up. so did the wind. and the crowd was retarded i was followed, cut off a few times. got a couple ok ones that woulda been good had it stayed glassy
all in all i'd have rather stayed home
all in all i'd have rather stayed home
you gotta talk to that boss.
3 hours of laps on my favorite treadmill
thick crowd , you had to take waves and be assertive or you were watchinG.
lucked into a legit barrel , just stood there for a second laughing, came out. Decided maybe I should call it a day after that one.
more fun tomorrow
Was down in OC for the holiday week, surfed no-man’s land at the second worst stretch of beach in north OC on Thanksgiving morning. Waist to chest high walled backwash, found one that didn’t close out completely but that was it, was good to surf with old friends.
Drove back to SF all day yesterday and missed the waves at OB. Surfed this morning and paid my wimpy kook tax. Rode a 6’2” Stamps, my favorite “standard” shortboard I have. Caught one wave, chip shot roll-in to a doubled-up racy wall. Paddling back out got caught by a set, was starting to duck dive but then wimped out once I triangulated where the lip was going to land, last second ditched, got pounded, and came up to a clean snap. Wore the next 2 waves on the head too. Session over after like 15 minutes. I think if I held on I probably would’ve either been hurt or had my board buckled, sucks to suck.
Drove back to SF all day yesterday and missed the waves at OB. Surfed this morning and paid my wimpy kook tax. Rode a 6’2” Stamps, my favorite “standard” shortboard I have. Caught one wave, chip shot roll-in to a doubled-up racy wall. Paddling back out got caught by a set, was starting to duck dive but then wimped out once I triangulated where the lip was going to land, last second ditched, got pounded, and came up to a clean snap. Wore the next 2 waves on the head too. Session over after like 15 minutes. I think if I held on I probably would’ve either been hurt or had my board buckled, sucks to suck.
Surfed an outer sand bar left for an hour before dark last night. Not huge, maybe a few feet overhead on the biggest sets but pretty powerful. Some long rides to be had. Open bowls with a good pace, perfect for drawing out long turns or snapping it in the hook. Rode the 6-10 Blackbird which was slightly overkill but I was happy for the paddle power and there was plenty of room on the open faces for the longer board. My whole body hurts this morning.,
Predawn patrol up north. Plenty of size still but a bit of a warble on it and inconsistent. One guy out already on a big board. Sat inside of him and got cleaned up by the first set. Sat further out looking for the usual chip in over the boil.
Solid one came and I hung up for a second and caught my rail trying to knife the drop. Got a couple decent ones but they were few and far between. Went for a small one and as I pulled out a perfect 3 wave set ran down the reef and spit into the channel. The other guy went in so I figured it was on. Waited 30min for more and nothing came. Two more guys paddled out and I took the next one in. Decent drop then bogged the cutback to finish the day.
Solid one came and I hung up for a second and caught my rail trying to knife the drop. Got a couple decent ones but they were few and far between. Went for a small one and as I pulled out a perfect 3 wave set ran down the reef and spit into the channel. The other guy went in so I figured it was on. Waited 30min for more and nothing came. Two more guys paddled out and I took the next one in. Decent drop then bogged the cutback to finish the day.
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We probably did cross paths at some point. I think I paddled out at 12 just south of Lawton but immediately got pulled north, at least to Kirkham. Then I paddled all the way south to Noriega just to get out of the rip of death, which was A LOT of fun.Checked it at 8 and came back. I wanted to paddle out around 9 but a friend convinced me to wait.
Took the big board out for its maiden voyage around 11:30 with a buddy. We walked about 6 blocks north to get out.
Paddled out pretty easily north of the main zone and tried to hang up there and avoid being dragged into the thick of it.
The current wasn't fast, but it was steadily dragging out and to the south, and increasing as the tide fell
.
I paddled for the majority of the first 90 minutes to hold position there looking for a few softer warm up waves. I let 2 go right when I got out out of respect for guys who were there already. Nobody got them
No sooner had I said "fuck it, let's see what happens", did a set appear on the horizon. I was the farthest out and actually hesitated before realizing this thing was going to break! I paddled so hard, for what felt like so long, scraping through the first, second, and third bomb that my shoulders were starting to cramp when I saw the 4th. I scratched under it knowing that if there was another one I would be taking it on the head.
I was rattled after that and I ended up getting swept through the main zone, not even having a look at one, where everyone was getting bombs. By then it was 1:00 and the tide was still draining. I might have drifted past @kool-aid as I allowed myself to get pulled further and further away to a mellower zone. Eventually, I took a smaller, shitty one in on my backhand and got out at Sloat. Roughly 10 blocks away from where I started.
2 hours, one awful wave in that was more of a method of transportation from harms way than an actual attempt at wave riding. Humbling.
I caught a few waves in that zone but pretty quickly decided not to fight the current and started drifting south. It was good up until Pacheco but then it immediately got funky. I dodged a few bombs and swam under two waves, I think, but I got through that zone pretty much unscathed.
It wasn't quite as big as I was hoping for. The sets were decent-sized, but the wait time between them was pretty long (10 - 15 min?). The inbetweeners were pretty small, maybe 10' on the face. I was down at Sloat faster than any other time I could remember.
It wasn't a struggle to catch waves. I got good ones but not great ones—no standouts. I opted for the 7'10, which I think was not a great choice, not because it was hard to catch the waves, but because a bit of extra volume to fight the current and sit outside would have probably yielded better results.
Nevertheless, a classic big OB winter day. Last evening was really beautiful as well. Somewhere between sheet-glass and offshore with sets in the 10'+ range and not terribly crowded.
Mega fun waves at the kelp patch. Rode the Plasmic for the first time in a while w/ Doc Tallboy kelpcutters. I was a little concerned to ride the 5-9 because I haven't ridden anything that short in a long time but from the first wave it was like slipping into an old pair of shoes. The left was bowling up like like a skate park corner pocket and the little twin felt perfect for some coping slashes. The rights were running a bit more and it was harder to fit turns in without getting left behind but I managed to get a couple good ones in. The swell was non stop action, no sitting. Surfed for two hours but it felt like four. Tomorrow I think the winds go funky.
CH fun wedges that lined up as the tide kept dropping early afternoon. P2 is a great boar
Scored. Gifted a few waves by an older loc I know and took a few off the groms I know haha.
Great day of fun rippable surf.
GG modfish was going good today. There were some slow sections and smaller pockets if fit in so perfectly.
Great day of fun rippable surf.
GG modfish was going good today. There were some slow sections and smaller pockets if fit in so perfectly.
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