sorry if my post triggered you, I know how much you hate waterfalls, flowers, sunsets, puppies, kittens, etc.
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*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter b.r.
- Start date
He's more of.a Italo portrait tattoo on left thigh kinda guy so it makes sense
Combo swell, light side/offshore wind, rising low/medium tide, should be good even with the fog of constancy, right?
Wrong. Absolute dogshit. South was very inconsistent and the 11 second windswell was consistently terrible. One of 30 set waves would peak outside and peel into the shorebreak, the rest downjacked into crap and all waves were horribly gutless (even if the current wasn't). It was like really, really bad Tamarack. At least got some paddling in, feeling surprisingly decent on that front and fighting a current in a 5/4 is always good for getting that strength/endurance aspect back.
Unfortunately, calf muscles were super crampy, especially when getting that last burst into waves. Likely still feeling effects from 50K and marathon 6 weeks apart and I might have ran a little hard yesterday doing speed intervals in the high 80 degree heat. Achilles was feeling twingy all yesterday and still does. I would bet solid money it's all posterior chain muscle fatigue - got my PT referral so setting that up ASAP.
72 days to Hawaii. Cannot wait.
I may have to find a way to stay.
Wrong. Absolute dogshit. South was very inconsistent and the 11 second windswell was consistently terrible. One of 30 set waves would peak outside and peel into the shorebreak, the rest downjacked into crap and all waves were horribly gutless (even if the current wasn't). It was like really, really bad Tamarack. At least got some paddling in, feeling surprisingly decent on that front and fighting a current in a 5/4 is always good for getting that strength/endurance aspect back.
Unfortunately, calf muscles were super crampy, especially when getting that last burst into waves. Likely still feeling effects from 50K and marathon 6 weeks apart and I might have ran a little hard yesterday doing speed intervals in the high 80 degree heat. Achilles was feeling twingy all yesterday and still does. I would bet solid money it's all posterior chain muscle fatigue - got my PT referral so setting that up ASAP.
72 days to Hawaii. Cannot wait.
I may have to find a way to stay.
OC MD on fire this morning. I love it here when the lefts are draining in 2 feet of water. 25 years of surfing IB does me right when its good backside barrels here. Got some good ones today.
Fun beach break waves again.
Getting the opposite of 000d lately (111d?) when i paddle out and start getting waves everyone else goes away and i’m left alone with an abundance of sea life.
I had to get out of the water and move down the beach because a playful sea lion would not leave me alone. It was circling fast just like a dog that wants you to play really badly, getting inches from my feet and board each pass. I splashed at it, kicked at it. It was making me laugh and that probably wasn’t helping, damn thing thought we were playing or something and was glued to me. Caught a wave to the beach, it followed me in.
walked down the beach to put some people between me and the sealion. They paddled in right away and i drifted back to the same place. Got a couple more fun ones and left. Fvckin animal planet out here for weeks, i’m losing my nerve lol
Damn it was good. Tomorrow should be good too. I'm back Oct 4-14th.
Saturday report. Super small, smaller than the past two days.
Got the preferred parking spot this time. The fake handicapped spot.
Cracks, four duu's and a paddler. This is crowded. LOL, those duu's were on foamies, could not paddle at all.
Out front is always more crowded. A bit larger, but mushier.
Got the preferred parking spot this time. The fake handicapped spot.
Cracks, four duu's and a paddler. This is crowded. LOL, those duu's were on foamies, could not paddle at all.
Out front is always more crowded. A bit larger, but mushier.
So this is the funny thing. Surf I dealt with yesterday was pretty similar to above, maybe a little bigger and breaking further out so more paddling/duckdiving but the difference maker is the weather: 54 degrees and foggy is getting really tiresome/depressing. Looking out the window and seeing the fog was enough of a surf check this morning.
I know I would have enjoyed myself a LOT more if the sun was shining and it was a beautiful day instead of this fucking neverending crud. Spring is going on 8 months and counting - it's making me crazy. I was surfing very well when I first moved up here and my rhythm/timing/everything has gone into the gutter because of the maddening inconsistency and that's kind of what pisses me off the most. Surfing 5 days/week before I moved up here was nice and holy crap did I take that for granted.
Kids need to finish this school year as don't want to move them in the middle but overall, oh yeah, can't wait to GTFO here and move back down south.
I know I would have enjoyed myself a LOT more if the sun was shining and it was a beautiful day instead of this fucking neverending crud. Spring is going on 8 months and counting - it's making me crazy. I was surfing very well when I first moved up here and my rhythm/timing/everything has gone into the gutter because of the maddening inconsistency and that's kind of what pisses me off the most. Surfing 5 days/week before I moved up here was nice and holy crap did I take that for granted.
Kids need to finish this school year as don't want to move them in the middle but overall, oh yeah, can't wait to GTFO here and move back down south.
Sometimes you have to just try things and make a change. I've been there. Let's hang when you get back down here!
1 decent session on friday
wifes made me go to the beach at normal hours lately
i had to mention ive seen 2 guys try to surf with no fins in their boards, abd they were beginners
one was about 200 pounds on what looked like a 6' single fin (as a 0 fin)
they did not succeed
i was wondering if they knew any better
wifes made me go to the beach at normal hours lately
i had to mention ive seen 2 guys try to surf with no fins in their boards, abd they were beginners
one was about 200 pounds on what looked like a 6' single fin (as a 0 fin)
they did not succeed
i was wondering if they knew any better
Had a few ok surfs on the Pyz2 lately, but conditions have been pretty wooly and b-grade. Still, it's spring and sunny and no complaints.
Today I had a fricken busy day at work, starting at 5.20am, so I needed a no stress surf. Solid swell, and clean, but only 13sec or so, but took the 8'6 out for a cruise. 3-4 out, and all on the inside, so I was left to pick sets on the far outside peak. So so fun and satisfying.
Cuppa tea now with the doggy curled up next to me. Happy man!
Today I had a fricken busy day at work, starting at 5.20am, so I needed a no stress surf. Solid swell, and clean, but only 13sec or so, but took the 8'6 out for a cruise. 3-4 out, and all on the inside, so I was left to pick sets on the far outside peak. So so fun and satisfying.
Cuppa tea now with the doggy curled up next to me. Happy man!
surfed 3 days in a row at the beach closest to my house...nothing big but friendly crowd/tide/winds...
couple decent waves today. but it was hard to surf, pounding on the sand, mostly closeouts, hard to be in position for a good one. but i did manage 2 brief tubes
First surf in a month. One peak with a handful of pros out. Hurt my hip/back and I was surfing embarrassingly bad. There were some head high wedges but all I got was some close outs and a few that flattened out after the drop. Had one good one come to me and ct level pro hooted me into it and I proceeded to get hung up on the drop and pearl.
Older you get the more daze like thisBeen there
Yesterday saw some chest high waves for the first time in what seems like ages. Wonky mix of swell and highish tide make it pretty mediocre: fun wedgy drop and one wrap/turn before it fizzled out or ran into a closeout section (on the sets). A touch cleaner and it would’ve been fun. Caught a bunch of these short waves and was splitting peaks with an older local, while a third dude was on the inside out of the picture. Wasn’t great but not bad. [insert rowJimmy shrug]
FIrst surf in almost a week. It was ok but exceeded expectations. mini simm wasn't ideal for dumpy racers but it was nice having foam.