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*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***

M

Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
3,522
5,566
113
Innzid
Don't call it a comeback! Only my second surf in two weeks due to shoulder injury, skiing, being busy, etc.

Very peaky point surf as W and SW swells crossed up. Fun and powerful, but marred be slight devil wind. Still can't duck dive as deep nor pop up as quickly as normal, so wave count down a bit, but had fun on the 6'6 Bourton blade.

Last wave I was pretty much under water from takeoff to keyhole (~350m). Smashed!
 
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M

Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
3,522
5,566
113
Innzid
Ok, so it's a comeback.

Bigger this morning (2xOH) and glassy at first, but was dead sure to go onshore. Got off rocks cleanly, then swept 500m down the point, but no dramas. Three of us out, and I got three solid waves before wind got ugly. Win!

6'8 Wolverine was a good crutch, and my shoulder managed to duck dive the ~40L.
 
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oeste858

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,569
18,577
113
San Diego, CA
Been pretty lackluster the past few days/ couple weeks. Weather and water are perfect tho, so I finished up work and was told wife and kids were at a neighbors house for early dinner. Grabbed 7’0 Dankess (mini miniglider) and some trunks and went over to a summer reef. The main reef was jammed with 25 guys out for a few WH crumbly peaks. Went a few hundred yards around the bend and only two guys out for some knee-WH backside runners. Good fun messin around and the water felt amazing. Stocked.
 
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B

Bob Dobbalina

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2016
5,263
5,860
113
Hung out on the beach yesterday after work with the youngest. 70-75 degrees, glassy, warm, low tide. Waves looked like they were really fun before the tide shifted a bit too much.

A little over a week before I'm cleared to surf again.
Funny to watch people pull on hoods, boots, and GLOVES when we, and the lady teaching herself to surf on a soft top, are frolicking around in trunks.
 
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M

Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
3,522
5,566
113
Innzid
Another good one yesterday. Too messy on outside points, with wide sets and heaps of current, but inner point was nice. Solid OH, clean, three of us out. 6'8 Wolverine is starting to feel too boaty, so might be looking around for a more HP crutch.
 
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stringcheese

stringcheese

Miki Dora status
Jun 21, 2017
4,997
5,504
113
Thoughts while sitting in the flat grey nothingness…

how to deal with heavy wipeouts: think of it as switching from stand up surfing to body surfing. Then taking a solid beating becomes catching a good one.
If you body surf like I do, poorly, underwater the whole time.
 
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Aruka

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,975
25,961
113
PNW
Today felt like opening day. 15 second goundswell. Overhead sets. Kelpy reef on the 8-0. A breathing fog bank kept the randos away. Just a few locals. The board felt good. Surfed for a long time. Very satisfied.
 
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oeste858

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,569
18,577
113
San Diego, CA
Aruka said:
Today felt like opening day. 15 second goundswell. Overhead sets. Kelpy reef on the 8-0. A breathing fog bank kept the randos away. Just a few locals. The board felt good. Surfed for a long time. Very satisfied.
Click to expand...
What’s the 8’0? EA Holy Moli? Padi?
 
S

Senor Sopa

Billy Hamilton status
Mar 11, 2015
1,480
2,390
113
Ponto
Paddled out at my chit spot, Cracks just south of PPP. Knee+ high, nobody around, ultra clear water. Surged for 45 minutes, didn't even get my hair wet.

Came back for sunset, looks to me like the WSL will be HH today. Machao was throwing a swanky fundraiser at the high digit Alila Marea hotel, chicks in silk lurking about at sunset. I then ran into Cote who was "working" at the event. Sigh, I'm not not cool enough to get invited.
 
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stringcheese

stringcheese

Miki Dora status
Jun 21, 2017
4,997
5,504
113
Duck diving nine foot boards in rising swell dumpy beach break is tiring, but i’m no board ditcher.

A few fun waves to be had in one little corner out of the seventy or so miles of local coast…there’s almost always a spot at a good angle for the swell here if you look hard enough
 
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Aruka

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,975
25,961
113
PNW
Solo session after work. The fog was pretty thick and I wasn't overly optimistic but I just wanted to get wet so I took the 8-0 out to the kelp patch and paddled out. The tide was lower than is ideal, as was the swell interval. Plenty of energy though and there were many corners and variable angle swell lines coming through. Took me a while to figure out where I was and where I wanted to be but after some hunting around I found a couple familiar boils and dialed in on some fast running right handers. Highlining long sections, dodging boils and kelp heads. It was a little wave machine for about 30 minutes and then it changed so I paddled up the reef and found some really fun, bowly lefts. The 8-0 felt good as a thruster. Got some fun little carves and wraps. Eventually the left sort of petered out and the kelp situation was becoming a little extreme so I bellied in for a quick rinse in the waterfall. Not bad.
 
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S

Senor Sopa

Billy Hamilton status
Mar 11, 2015
1,480
2,390
113
Ponto
Two days in a row, what the heck!

if the waves go from knee high to belly button high, is it twice as big? Anyways, combo swell actually produced some mini wedge-chunks. Back at Crack's, no dry hair this time. Had to duck dive a wave before getting out.

The last 30 minutes of rising tide was a relative feast of bounty. Then, it went land-o-lakes.

Funny chit. Those that frequent PPP, know about the messed up uturns required to access the beach. After safely negotiating, a lady aggressively passes me. I figure she's gonna snake me at the free parking. Nope, she went to the lot. In the lot, I spied a preferred spot. I see the lady weaving through the lot. Yep, she beelined it for the same spot. I could've snaked her, but let her take the spot. Walking to the shore, I spoke with her. I told her I knew she was going to the beach by the way she passed me. I then commented on how fast she was able to get out of her car. We laughed, and I had a fun session of meagerness. Was this random, or did good vibes actually work?
 
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Havoc

Havoc

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
May 23, 2016
8,321
13,480
113
in da hood next to paradise
Aruka said:
Solo session after work. The fog was pretty thick and I wasn't overly optimistic but I just wanted to get wet so I took the 8-0 out to the kelp patch and paddled out. The tide was lower than is ideal, as was the swell interval. Plenty of energy though and there were many corners and variable angle swell lines coming through. Took me a while to figure out where I was and where I wanted to be but after some hunting around I found a couple familiar boils and dialed in on some fast running right handers. Highlining long sections, dodging boils and kelp heads. It was a little wave machine for about 30 minutes and then it changed so I paddled up the reef and found some really fun, bowly lefts. The 8-0 felt good as a thruster. Got some fun little carves and wraps. Eventually the left sort of petered out and the kelp situation was becoming a little extreme so I bellied in for a quick rinse in the waterfall. Not bad.
Click to expand...
u and this waterfall faka...
 
PRCD

PRCD

Tom Curren status
Feb 25, 2020
14,218
10,278
113
I've driven past @Senor Sopa's spot numerous times in an attempt to foil and was foiled(!) by the low tides (too low for a beginner, at least). I foiled one time by the <redacted> on Monday but otherwise have been body surfign on a lunch tray while the kids surf (my presence in the lineup gets them more waves and deters adult learners). Have I successfully quit surfing?
 
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