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*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter b.r.
- Start date
Oh yeah? Ever punch yourself in the face trying to wrench your arm free from a tight cuff before?
Don't try to out stupid me, bob!
A full punch, no.
An open hander, yes.
I have a scar over my belly button from when I attempted a pre surf seppuku trying to yank a 7'10" single fin out of a board bag
An open handed slap while un-suiting is just another day at the office.
Fin seppuku is a good one though. Props.
How about when you are trying to get the suit off, it's around your ankles while you are standing, cold and exhausted in a rubbermaid tote. You bend over to peel the last bit of suit off and you lose your balance, you reach for your open door to steady yourself, you miss. Hogtied, you go down like a wet sack of potatoes.
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Mostly bleh random mix of close outs and burgers, but managed two cleaner hh lefts that ran a bit, one with a nice face for a fs carve on the HG2 at dawn. Water felt as warm as you can ever hope for here.
Thanks for asking. 5’8 White Tiger from Varial deadstock. Good groveler: probably a stepdown from beloved Gremlin. Seems like a squash-tail fish, very flat rocker.
I like Single Fin Seppuku, but I had the same thought.
I don't think I've ever fallen all the way over, but I've certainly come close.
But have you ever been hit by 2 stingrays in 3 days?
(I'm not running out of material, you are..)
More fun little waves today. Beach break rights and lefts on the longboard. Jellyfish!
Surfed yesterday. Small waist high beach water felt like 80 degrees!
Endless waist high beach break peaks, rights and lefts, one after another. Clean, fun all day. Surfed until i needed food.
checked a few spots this morning, nada mucho. 8’0 Mini glider salvaged another day when I wouldn’t have paddled out. One of my Top 10 purchases ever and I expect to have this for many years. I will always have one in my garage… and will probably be my DD in my golden years.
Scored some little WH wedges at SBD reef. No one out so I didn’t even have to drop his name to get waves at this heavily localized and sharky spot. Amazing how fun small surf can be with the right boar and low expectations. Stocked.
Scored some little WH wedges at SBD reef. No one out so I didn’t even have to drop his name to get waves at this heavily localized and sharky spot. Amazing how fun small surf can be with the right boar and low expectations. Stocked.
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So glad I didn't have to regulate. Keep going alone and consider yourself lucky.
Chunky windswell beachies with my best bud. Disorganized swell made for lots of paddling but lots of opportunities. More power in the water than I have felt in months despite the short interval. Rode the gigglebox which felt like a solid choice. The rights had a better channel but were kind of sectiony. Still some fun drops and a couple turn sections. Finally tapped into a nuggy left that offered up some steep, bowly sections for the smacking. Got a few more after that but nothing to top that one which had me buzzing for the rest of the day.
Got that marathon in the books last weekend, rested the legs all week. They're still a little tight to be sure, been ramping up calisthenics in the morning, and had the day off today. Dropped my son off at school and then from there to my usual spot. Glassy, chest to shoulder high, and had a nice left wedge with a high tide push all to myself for 3 hours.
The waves were a bit inconsistent and then turned to absolute mushy gutless dogshit once the tide turned but until then, that shifty left offered up so many fun waves. There was a little backwash current too that was making a few of them literally stop and stand right up where they were and throw. Had to be in a perfect spot to get into them but got a nice pocket barrel a few waves in, had a nice one go perfectly round around me right after that, unfortunately didn't make it out, so close too. Barrels ended after that as tide rose but still well-shaped. But all in all, at least a few dozen waves (despite inconsistency/shiftiness) and got a bunch of snaps, hacks, reentries, and other assorted turns but was just a little bit off on everything, kind of trying to surf the waves bigger than what they were, doing downcarves and such. Sure, on 2' waves. Barely missed out on a couple gems because it was so shifty, but also, just out of rhythm. But not that much considering how infrequently I've surfed. Paddling strength wasn't as terrible as feared.
Legs started cramping as I figured they would after an hour or so but stayed out an extra 2 I guess. Got a lot of waves in the interim. The tweeners were usually the better shaped ones but occasionally a set wave would break well. Towards the end when I was hunting for "one last wave"s, one of the bigger lefts popped up, looked like it was going to close out before too long but held up long enough to get a couple good pumps, squared bottom turn, straight up, fins out, straight down, stomped, and then the cramp hit my front calf and I said fuck riding out of that. Had a slightly smaller wave right after that did long floater and landed like butter right after.
Not a bad way at all to get back in the water. Best I've actually surfed in quite a while. That 6'7" has always been good to me.
The waves were a bit inconsistent and then turned to absolute mushy gutless dogshit once the tide turned but until then, that shifty left offered up so many fun waves. There was a little backwash current too that was making a few of them literally stop and stand right up where they were and throw. Had to be in a perfect spot to get into them but got a nice pocket barrel a few waves in, had a nice one go perfectly round around me right after that, unfortunately didn't make it out, so close too. Barrels ended after that as tide rose but still well-shaped. But all in all, at least a few dozen waves (despite inconsistency/shiftiness) and got a bunch of snaps, hacks, reentries, and other assorted turns but was just a little bit off on everything, kind of trying to surf the waves bigger than what they were, doing downcarves and such. Sure, on 2' waves. Barely missed out on a couple gems because it was so shifty, but also, just out of rhythm. But not that much considering how infrequently I've surfed. Paddling strength wasn't as terrible as feared.
Legs started cramping as I figured they would after an hour or so but stayed out an extra 2 I guess. Got a lot of waves in the interim. The tweeners were usually the better shaped ones but occasionally a set wave would break well. Towards the end when I was hunting for "one last wave"s, one of the bigger lefts popped up, looked like it was going to close out before too long but held up long enough to get a couple good pumps, squared bottom turn, straight up, fins out, straight down, stomped, and then the cramp hit my front calf and I said fuck riding out of that. Had a slightly smaller wave right after that did long floater and landed like butter right after.
Not a bad way at all to get back in the water. Best I've actually surfed in quite a while. That 6'7" has always been good to me.
tried to surf, pretty lame outy there, and lots of swimmers in the way when a wave came
keep in mind, surfline had hyped this as a weekend with swell
keep in mind, surfline had hyped this as a weekend with swell
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Fun peaks to myself on the 8-0. Chest high or so and shifty. Clean conditions at the south wind spot and one of the few places not socked in with fog.