that's the problem with ncsd u don't get enough swell from either the north or south. go to whole foods instead of surfing next time...
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*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter b.r.
- Start date
i forgot to mention, i was the only one out, cuz it sucked. i watched a swimmer walk down the beach to wade out right where i was. he went out of his way to sit on my peak.
Figured it would really turn on turbo fun inside sand ledge. Wind mellowing and clocking around - check. Tide flooding up to full moon high - check.
Douchecanoe dredge blocking slopteenth North and like a four block radius - check.
Douchecanoe dredge over-sanding inside sand ledge - check.
Walked too far into Schleptune and it was capmush capmush capmush capmush until I got past the Douchecanoe dredge - check.
If they had been a week later it would have been pretty close to firing inside with the wind/surface condition and tide. Some schwacks and slashes but fresh windswell, over 6' of tide, angled chunks...I should have been checking off the bottom and eyeing some shade.
Alas.
Douchecanoe dredge blocking slopteenth North and like a four block radius - check.
Douchecanoe dredge over-sanding inside sand ledge - check.
Walked too far into Schleptune and it was capmush capmush capmush capmush until I got past the Douchecanoe dredge - check.
If they had been a week later it would have been pretty close to firing inside with the wind/surface condition and tide. Some schwacks and slashes but fresh windswell, over 6' of tide, angled chunks...I should have been checking off the bottom and eyeing some shade.
Alas.
Small and slow but super clean, clear and as nice a morning as you could hope for. Couple adult learners and old man funboarders that kind of put a damper on it but my son and I both got some fun ones before it got too crowded. Glad I got an oversized twin fin. Would have been a struggle on the short board.
Retired my faithful Dale Walker simmons twin thing.
Never had a better board, but it’s time to pull it from the ocean while still mostly in one piece. Its last session was a fun one, with some good speedy drops and turns that a board like that really has no business making. I’ll keep it for the memories. Love it too much to let go.
Taking a week or so off of surfing. The waves suck, it’s windy and a bit cold for the season, people are everywhere…
I’m running, laying out in quiet beaches, resetting. Next week the boards start arriving. Full quiver reset…two months after saying “i’m not into alt construction boards” i have a full balsa, a bamboo/cork, and one of those black dart carbon things in the works. My only PU/PE will be a 9’0. Lot of surfing ahead!
Never had a better board, but it’s time to pull it from the ocean while still mostly in one piece. Its last session was a fun one, with some good speedy drops and turns that a board like that really has no business making. I’ll keep it for the memories. Love it too much to let go.
Taking a week or so off of surfing. The waves suck, it’s windy and a bit cold for the season, people are everywhere…
I’m running, laying out in quiet beaches, resetting. Next week the boards start arriving. Full quiver reset…two months after saying “i’m not into alt construction boards” i have a full balsa, a bamboo/cork, and one of those black dart carbon things in the works. My only PU/PE will be a 9’0. Lot of surfing ahead!
Pretty good beach on the Pyz2 first thing, then straight to the Points for hollow high tide runners on the 8'0 Keogh.
Fun morning, apart from the hole in the arse of my 3/2 making for very cold nuts.
Fun morning, apart from the hole in the arse of my 3/2 making for very cold nuts.
I’m not sure exactly how this happened but today I got two hours by myself at my Southwell reef is usually got people on it at Don. It was pretty good. 3 foot south swell occasional very long waves. Maybe it has something to do with every morning being choppy this summer people don’t want to get up early and surf anymore, anyway it was cold supposed to be warm, but it was cold and right when I was too tired to surf decided to go in somebody paddled out I’m sure he couldn’t figure out where the hell to sit without me there to show him
was pretty dead in my zone too. Wish it wasn't so inconsistent cause the few waves I got were decent. Water dipped, I was chilly
This bonzer is going through wars!!
It's ok tho the gal who dropped in on me and ran my rail over told me someone dropped in on her so
It was ok !!
I hate surfers
It's ok tho the gal who dropped in on me and ran my rail over told me someone dropped in on her so
It was ok !!
I hate surfers
Thought about grabbing her board and smashing it but it felt like a bit much
Tube dodger.
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Weekend tide didn't really get right until the wind pretty much started up. I should have gone with kind not quite right tide and perfecto wind. Alas.
Back to flat for the forseeable. Trying to motivate for a quick trip for the 4th but the plane ticket + hotel to surf forecast ratio is not inspiring.
Oh well June is mostly done and dusted and we have a decent shot at a better-than-normal August.
Wouldn’t have mattered! she turned her boat right into mine. Will see if Max M isnt too backed up or else making a drive to see wooly,This is why even my pu MC I go epoxy 6/4 6 S glass
Santacruzin ding on his egg from.some adult learner gal