Holy surprise session up the street. Super fun wind swell with 4 guys out, only two who could surf. Short punchy and fun.
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*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter b.r.
- Start date
Surfed a desperation session on Father's Day mid morning.
Windy, small, awful.
surfed Chalet zone, rode the 7'10" miniglider. Got a few stomach/chest high rights where it felt like I was going fast. That "downhill" sensation. Other than that, pretty bad. Looked like I should have tried to surf Monday morning. Looks awful out front again.
The fam and I are staying in Asilomar this weekend.
Forecast not great but I am admittedly ignorant about the South SC beachbreak -> Carmel zone.
Windy, small, awful.
surfed Chalet zone, rode the 7'10" miniglider. Got a few stomach/chest high rights where it felt like I was going fast. That "downhill" sensation. Other than that, pretty bad. Looked like I should have tried to surf Monday morning. Looks awful out front again.
The fam and I are staying in Asilomar this weekend.
Forecast not great but I am admittedly ignorant about the South SC beachbreak -> Carmel zone.
We're dealing with strong onshore winds here all week, but at least the surf has a little size. Caught the late morning session today on an outgoing tide. Choppy, sloppy CH-HH peaks. It felt good to have a little oomph under my feet, but I never really got the wave/section I was looking for. Most waves either shouldered out or closed out too quickly. Can't complain too much though because it's June and we have waves.
Just got out surfing the rip bank in front of the house. I did not presume I would get much more bang for the buck by looking up and down the beach. Beach replenishment moves are being made so we'll see how that changes the bars in the next couple of weeks.
It looked like there was a funky, kindy burgery left off the rip that I might be able to get to. Nobody out anywhere. Took the 7'10" out again since there did not appear to be a lot of pocket to it. Kind of an against the grain drop, then the wall kind of dissipated. All in all, got a drive by by a few seals or sea lions, got 3 little lefts, my first with a decent little closeout bank, and I'm not sure I ever quite made it to where I intended. Done and home in 45 minutes to walk lil man to daycare.
It looked like there was a funky, kindy burgery left off the rip that I might be able to get to. Nobody out anywhere. Took the 7'10" out again since there did not appear to be a lot of pocket to it. Kind of an against the grain drop, then the wall kind of dissipated. All in all, got a drive by by a few seals or sea lions, got 3 little lefts, my first with a decent little closeout bank, and I'm not sure I ever quite made it to where I intended. Done and home in 45 minutes to walk lil man to daycare.
Swell is up to 8.9ft @ 10s sse. Bombing on the outer bars and an absolute washing machine through the surf zone with a strong cross shore wind. Scored some country fried gulf coast “point break”goodness where the swell was wrapping into the inlet. A wedgy take off with long lefts running down the sandbar. Got a few good wraps and a couple of nice hits on the end section. Felt like a snowboard session. It was fun to surf a wave where you could slow down and be deliberate with your turns and combinations of maneuvers going down the line.
After the bottom turn, did mid-face redirect, came off the board suddenly/unexpectedly, landed in the flats somewhat awkwardly on my side and tweaked my ribs.
Cut the session short.
Now a few days later, still sore, and twisting at the waist is not so subtle reminder that healing factor of youth is waning at accelerated pace, and that small waves with lots of windchop on them make you pay more than one would think.
Cut the session short.
Now a few days later, still sore, and twisting at the waist is not so subtle reminder that healing factor of youth is waning at accelerated pace, and that small waves with lots of windchop on them make you pay more than one would think.
Semi remote beach break this morning. Wedge peak to myself, ~HH and offshore. So satisfying.
Pyz2 was great, as usual, but wondering how I would have done on an HPSB.
Pyz2 was great, as usual, but wondering how I would have done on an HPSB.
Only got one good setup last night. Kind of bad luck on the wash-throughs not having any mid bumps bowl up after the cleanup . Still fun to address the lip on a thruster in June, and stocked we have after work full moon high tides to coincide with this, because it looks kinda flat-faced and aaaallll over the place out the back on low tide.
Low tide rips were no joke at the I I I I I I s today. Completely killed the fun I was having from 10-11:30. Might try the incoming out back tonight.
today I was freezing my ass off even in a 5/4 and booties. wonky windswell burger peaks coming in at the local sandbar, got a decent amount of waves with a few decent turns on my Evo. its been a rough few months up here. july and august should provide some warmer waters and better waves.
back from dads and grads vacation up the central coast. paddled the longboard out at a local reef, challenging conditions, as in the challenge was finding a line without the kelp stopping the board, had fun for an hour and 15 minutes, 2mm felt comfortable, the water is getting warmer.
Same beach break this morning. Clean and good shape, but much smaller - as small as the west coast ever gets.
What's up with all that kelp? The impact zone is just thick with it. It's hard to even paddle out lately.
it was finally glassy this morning
so i went
it was pretty flat. maybe 15 minutes between rideable waves
so i went
it was pretty flat. maybe 15 minutes between rideable waves
North or south of Cape Mendo? Lived up there for awhile. Mostly surfed the jetties and the left point. Don't miss the 5/4 and booties..
today was one of those almost didn't go out cause it's slightly onshore and junky kinda days that ended up being pretty damn fun
Scrapped a few at HQ at lunch. Should have stepped it down a notch on the boar. Can't make heads or tails of the cams right now; Flagojevich is side-on pretty brisk, San Doggie looks lighter and side-off.
Storm, please, pretty please with sugar on top, track E-ENE-NE tonight and let us awake to you 150m ESE of the Savannah River. Then string up a hammock.
Storm, please, pretty please with sugar on top, track E-ENE-NE tonight and let us awake to you 150m ESE of the Savannah River. Then string up a hammock.