*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***

000

Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
26,520
8,063
113
pretty decent south running today. surfed mostly alone. first hour fully alone, then a dork crew showed up so i switched peaks and got more to myself. 1 super long left.
i think the early morning blown out trend is causing people to not dawn patrol
 

motosurf

Nep status
Nov 19, 2008
633
212
43
805
Tried out the new fish. Chest to shoulder, double ups and pretty crowded with groms trying airs on every wave. Overcast and onshore but the water warmed way up. First session in a 3/2 and I was hot. Haven't surfed south of point conception in two weeks. Now I see why people like riding twins, I haven't ridden one in 15years. Boards way to big but is super fast and catches anything. Was really fun floating over sections and then being immediately back up to speed with one pump. Slid a bit on one frontside cutback but other than that it was super skatey. Was weird backside though but I only got two short rights. Would have probably struggled on my shortboard but instead had a super fun session. Makes me wish I pulled the trigger on the fishbeard I was eyeing a couple months ago..
 
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oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,245
17,961
113
San Diego, CA
Quick sesh this afternoon at the local reef. Crowd was a little hectic but picked off a few slightly onshore, punchy ones on 5’11 asym quad. One looked like it was gonna close out but then stood up and let me race section after section until a final turn just before the shorebreak. Going fast is fun.
 

000

Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
26,520
8,063
113
2 days in a row that shoulda been good but were meh
maybe medium tide is too high these days
 
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motosurf

Nep status
Nov 19, 2008
633
212
43
805
Solid windswell double ups. Mostly close outs but there were a few corners. Mistimed my bottom turn on my first one and got clipped. Thing stayed open would have been a good backside tube. My son pulled into his first close out barrel and got some vision. He was pumped. Broke a leash but other than that it was pretty fun. Should be bigger tomorrow. Wind was offshore early. Water is warm going to wear a 2mm short arm tomorrow. Was hot in a 3/2..
 
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santacruzin

Kelly Slater status
Oct 17, 2007
9,782
11,913
113
valley purgatory
up super early and it sucked :roflmao:

spent some time in the nard with fam and had a fun surf on the way home at a place I did not think would be good (3 guys out)

second sesh at old faithful , super fun on the bonzer egg, I am beat now. Time for a steak and bj.
 
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tacos

Michael Peterson status
Feb 12, 2006
3,525
582
113
LB —> SF
I haven’t been able to get out much lately, so I forced myself to paddle out in some god awful conditions this late morning. Cams looked doable, also looked surfable when I was pulling up, but by the time I changed and was running across the sand didn’t see a rideable wave. Paddled out about as north as it gets, breaking further out than I realized. One shitty closeout that pushed me far in, and then quickly drifted south past the supermarket.
Managed to find one dumpy insider that lined up to a bowly section and gave it my best little wiggle. Made the effort worth it but god damn was it bad.
 

Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
3,248
4,960
113
Innzid
Very iffy conditions, but beach had ok looking rights. By the time I paddled out it was a shitfight to even get out, and the outgoing tide had wrecked the waves. I caught a grand total of one wave, then struggled to even prone in.

You pay for the good ones :)
 

motosurf

Nep status
Nov 19, 2008
633
212
43
805
Surfed close to home yesterday am. Small windswell, got a few fun ones on the twin fin. Warm enough for the 2mm right at sunrise. Went back to the beach for the day with the younger kids. Paddled back out for a few but it was pretty walled. Got good in the evening on the high tide. Watched some kid get some good wedges and my son and his buddy pull into close outs on their sponges. My son was in the water all day.
 
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billypilgrim

Nep status
Apr 19, 2017
875
1,601
93
Finally scored some larger waves in Florida’s redneck riviera. Major thunderstorms blowing in off the Gulf through the day, along with a building south swell and lots of marine life. 4.6ft@8s SSE. After the squalls and strong south push, the winds settled and went NE which made for fun wedges on the outer pier bowl. The waves were a little funky but some would stand up and run. Backdoored the bowl and scored a nice in and out tube on one wave. Stomped an air but couldn’t get the landing right on another. The rest of waves were fun with some longer carving rides and the water was a beautiful emerald green. The fisherman were pulling in lots of fish and I watched a shark jump and for the catch as one dude pulled his rig up. Rode over another decent sized shark on the final wave and was exiting the water as fighter jets in formation screamed directly over head, smoking out the crowd of cheering enthusiasts and tourists waving flags. What a jarring way to punctuate the session but it seemed fitting.
 

Sharkbiscuit

Duke status
Aug 6, 2003
27,128
20,192
113
Jacksonville Beach
Finally scored some larger waves in Florida’s redneck riviera. Major thunderstorms blowing in off the Gulf through the day, along with a building south swell and lots of marine life. 4.6ft@8s SSE. After the squalls and strong south push, the winds settled and went NE which made for fun wedges on the outer pier bowl. The waves were a little funky but some would stand up and run. Backdoored the bowl and scored a nice in and out tube on one wave. Stomped an air but couldn’t get the landing right on another. The rest of waves were fun with some longer carving rides and the water was a beautiful emerald green. The fisherman were pulling in lots of fish and I watched a shark jump and for the catch as one dude pulled his rig up. Rode over another decent sized shark on the final wave and was exiting the water as fighter jets in formation screamed directly over head, smoking out the crowd of cheering enthusiasts and tourists waving flags. What a jarring way to punctuate the session but it seemed fitting.
Damn it got fun out there yesterday?
 

Sharkbiscuit

Duke status
Aug 6, 2003
27,128
20,192
113
Jacksonville Beach
Yeah it was surprisingly good. I could see it getting fun over in PCB this week. Maybe I will drive over to celebrate Juneteenth.
I'd be even more butthurt than normal for mid-June but Surflies finally came through. Some chunks on the inside just now and the size and tide should be getting better all week for the after work end of day slay.

My employer got bought and one upside is President's, MLK, Good Friday, Juneteenth, Columbus, and Veterans got added to the mix. The latter two are upside weekends I'm gonna milks thems beaches.
 

billypilgrim

Nep status
Apr 19, 2017
875
1,601
93
Chunk is right. Looks like y’all are getting a good shot as well.

Had to do some hunting here this evening but found a slabby inside bar. Most of the other spots the outside was too shallow and sucking the power out of the waves. Roll ins off the wedge that gave you a slowly steepening wall before the wave heaved on the shallow inner bar. Some fun turns to be had out there. Decent surface conditions while the wind was cross shore. Looks like the buoy is pinging 6.2ft@8s. Not bad for summer in the gulf!
 

Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
3,248
4,960
113
Innzid
Well, that was more like it. Devil wind so I had very low expectations, but it was just ok to make for clean'ish faces while holding up the lip. New 15sec swell threw up some strong sets too.

Caught an absolute pearler from way outside and didn't screw it up. Got a barrel too, and though only just inside it was a big, green canopy and the best wave I've had in a good wee while.

Pretty dark mood all day, so that session was a bit of a blessing.

Edit: Pyz 2 ftw!
 
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