beach breaks are waking up late all around, going to get something in morro bay area now, but it would be fun to surf a not-beach break this afternoon. I think the only beach break i really drive much for is blacks.
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*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter b.r.
- Start date
Good thing I'm short. Small waves yesterday which were about waist high for me. Clean and glassy with a little push.
Are these screen shots from a Cholo Shot? I didn't know there were fellow Choloshot owners on here.
Devon Howard or someone else posted that clip on IG a while ago. Assume it’s from Surfline cam, but maybe someone filmed it.Good thing I'm short. Small waves yesterday which were about waist high for me. Clean and glassy with a little push.
Are these screen shots from a Cholo Shot? I didn't know there were fellow Choloshot owners on here.
Killer sesh this morning. Was all loaded up for work when my sub called to cancel. Hopped in the surfmobile and headed north. Couple guys out. Kinda wonky but fun looking. I figured the outgoing tide would help so I lollygagged and shot the sh!t with an old cruster who rarely surfs anymore but is always around watching, drinking coffee and smoking ciggies.
Only one guy out by the time I made it to the lineup. Actually got denied on the first attempt to get out. Relentless short interval and bad timing screwed me and I had to to the walk of shame back to the top of the bar. Rode the 7-2 Gibbons channel twin w/ doc keels. Felt like a good call. Lots of current sweeping down the bar and Im out of paddle shape.
The last guy went in and I had it to myself for a couple hours. Overhead sets with lots of push. The good ones were lining up and peeling nicely. Some would double up and grow as they went. Flying on the big twin. Really fun times.
Only one guy out by the time I made it to the lineup. Actually got denied on the first attempt to get out. Relentless short interval and bad timing screwed me and I had to to the walk of shame back to the top of the bar. Rode the 7-2 Gibbons channel twin w/ doc keels. Felt like a good call. Lots of current sweeping down the bar and Im out of paddle shape.
The last guy went in and I had it to myself for a couple hours. Overhead sets with lots of push. The good ones were lining up and peeling nicely. Some would double up and grow as they went. Flying on the big twin. Really fun times.
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Reading this makes me happy.
Wish I had a few of those kinda waves. Stoked to hear you scored a few nugs.
I’m in the Philippines atm. Water is about 28C I guess.
Waves are micro now.
Last Friday afternoon a low went past the island so swell came up to 3-4’. Scored a few really fun waves before dark. Next morning was offshore and firing in the 3-5’ range. My mate who has a place I was staying with was out solo at dawn.
I was feeling really crappy with a splitting headache that was literally effecting my vision. After 2 cups of coffee my normal morning bowel movements which coffeee always helps with, were still not happening. Hard to surf firing waves feeling bloated. Couldn’t talk myself into going out.
After a while there were 6 or 7 out.
My mate came in and berated me. Wanted to know wtf I was doing not getting out there?
By the time I forced myself to get ready to go out the wind came up and turned it into a dogs breakfast. That was it. All over.
Continued to feel crappy for the next couple of days. Headache wouldn’t quite. Eyes hurt.
Went to surf a reef on the other side of the river from where I was staying. Felt a bit better for it. As soon as I got out the back I cleared some snot out of my head. Ok…that had to be a factor.
When I got back to my room I happened to carry the bag of instant coffee I had bought outside to the table on the balcony.
That’s when I noticed the primary source of my recent woeful condition. DECAF written across the lower part of the bag. Hadn’t even noticed that in the darkness of the local Sari Sari shop.
Hot footed it up to the local shop and got myself a bag of normal coffee.
Days of misery and suffering from caffeine withdrawal were done.
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Okay getting a board a foot shorter than that through 8 seconds is work I don't even want to know how you get a 7'2" up and down that fast.
Did you miss the part about me being denied on my first paddle out? I was barely able to get two strokes in between each wave and then it was time time for another half-assed duckdive. I was getting dragged worse than Elon after he says the most recent dumb thing.
Oh yeah I read it I just couldn't comprehend trying to punch through that on a 7'2". In a 4/3. Everything above the waist and below the scalp winces at the mere thought.
Last week of school, short days.
The wind stayed down despite the forecast so I hustled home and forced a surf.
Checked the length of The Beach and paddled out south of the usual off the sh!t pipe. It's such an odd little zone. One guy was out getting some warbly rights. I saw what looked like a couple lefts just north of him and figured I'd aim for those and try to avoid sitting where he was by a fair margin.
Paddled out and was just starting to get frustrated with getting stuck on the inside bar paddle out when it let up and let me out. Then I was lost. Managed to get one left, then I think I ended up in dude's zone before he packed it up and went in. I got 3 little rights and went in. Tide was filling in, wind was picking up, and it was a mess.
Happy to get out on a sunny afternoon though.
The wind stayed down despite the forecast so I hustled home and forced a surf.
Checked the length of The Beach and paddled out south of the usual off the sh!t pipe. It's such an odd little zone. One guy was out getting some warbly rights. I saw what looked like a couple lefts just north of him and figured I'd aim for those and try to avoid sitting where he was by a fair margin.
Paddled out and was just starting to get frustrated with getting stuck on the inside bar paddle out when it let up and let me out. Then I was lost. Managed to get one left, then I think I ended up in dude's zone before he packed it up and went in. I got 3 little rights and went in. Tide was filling in, wind was picking up, and it was a mess.
Happy to get out on a sunny afternoon though.
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Was working up north. Snuck out for a quick session. Waist to shoulder reforms. Paddled out and got a couple, looked better on the other side of the pier. Paddled through right into a fun left that stood up on the inside. Did a floater and air dropped off. Realized on the way back out I buckled my board.
tried to surf this morn
got 3 dribblers, it was cold
not worth the 5 minute drive
got 3 dribblers, it was cold
not worth the 5 minute drive
Surfed today, got one really really good wave no idea where it came from. Spent an hour looking for another one which never came
florida man vs pnw man
Just a quick get wet sesh this afternoon in CH junk. Surprisingly punchy for how onshore. Even found a couple turn sections on the trusty banged-up old Gremlin swallowtail (with reactor quads). Was about ready to sell the boar, but it’s just so easy in junky surf
You're going to get yours if you ever relocate. I dunno if you'll inattentively stand in a fire ant hill, wonder why you feel a tingling, and have your foot swell up like a balloon. I dunno if you'll be looking at a rare late Spring swell in South Florida, see it's empty, get halfway to the lineup, and then start itching, and spend the next week growing pimples and then the next two scratching scabs off skin volcanoes driving you nigh insane. I dunno if you'll inattentively walk past a pond and get dragged and drowned by a gator. I dunno if you'll wonder why the leaves at the base of a tree are rattling furiously, think nothing of it, then proceed, and enter the find out portion of the interaction. I dunno if you'll have an oddly fat snake with a large, spade-shaped head swim up to you kayaking and put some holes in you. I dunno if a rat with fins shark will think your hand is a mullet, or if a Great Hammerhead will think you on your board are a rat with fins shark. I dunno if a cockroach will fly off with you like a pterodactyl in that one Jurassic Park movie. I dunno if you'll have your bait/lure grabbed by a pelican or a snapping turtle, then have a Fish and Wildlife Officer explain the wildlife harassment charge you've got, the littering charge you'll get if you don't recover all your terminal tackle, and then heckle you while your finger inventory dwindles.
Maybe one of our currently experiencing high housing cost Americans having a bath salts episode will eat your face.
But you goin' git it.
I saw that they did have it. Pictures showed waist of time high junk.