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*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter b.r.
- Start date
That extra bit of shin/knee protection has resulted in far lesser injuries on the occasional times the board has come back around to bite.
I am still laughing how squirrely that board was. Those two waves were not surfed well. But I have to say it was beautiful how effortlessly deep I got on that first duckdive with the drastic lack of rubber and low volume board. Need to get in early, make sure that back foot is pressed right against the back of the tailpad and be like a cat with that front foot. Those original FCS YU fins are really, really quick; it was a divine miracle that a single right fin of that era was available on eBay. It is easily the best board/fin combo I've had since I started surfing, can slash the hell out of waves on it, but it takes a ton of ability and quickness to surf it well.
I'm motivated to get that back and once that is confirmed, I'm promptly having that thing cloned as close as humanly possible. Maybe even twice (don't tell the wife).
Finally got some waves over waist high this morning (barely). Granted it was windy/sloppy but seems like it’s been forever since we’ve had even a little size, so I’ll take it. Rode the 5’9 Sub Driver just to feel something different under my feet and, while not the best choice for the size/conditions, it actually went very well!
It was pretty meaty down south too, HH-OH sets but pretty mixed up, onshore shape (even tho the wind was calm) and not as good as it looked. Sneaker sets and big closeouts made for a lot of paddling duckdiving. Nobody was really finding the open face so I felt better about feeling like I was never in the right position. Breaking in 20-30’ long sections so I kept thinking I should be able to drop in on the end of the first section, but kept it shifting around or closing out. Caught four waves in an hour. One I went over the handlebars on a late drop, could feel my back foot was in front of the pad. Got two turns in on an in-betweener that was cleaner than the sets so that was the highlight. Longest ride closed out all around me at the first section and I just tried like hell to grip my toes to ride that whitewater buckin bronco all the way in. Lots of kelp loose in the lineup too so that’s fun to navigate. Ah well, at least there wasn’t much of a crowd (maybe 10-15 out) and I got a pretty good workout.
surfed a fun reef mid morning and was stoked on the crowd when i paddled out, sore shoulder still recovering from sprain but paddle motion feels ok, got 5 waves pretty quickly then looked inside and 10 people were paddlling out, randos I haven't seen out there before, guess that means summer is just around the corner. so there's that.
I took out the Baby Buggy the other evening because the gems had easily enough steepness and throw. That was by far the most size/energy I've seen all month. Didn't get any gems. Plenty of push but the ones I got ran away or kind of fizzled after takeoff.
I could really use an early season depression to stave off early season depression. It feels like lots of April and all of May have been July minus this little weird NE blowout. Just a ton of small southerly. Not encouraged by how "over it" I feel and it's not even June yet. Check the street, check the other cams, looks very uninspiring. Check South Side. Would be very fun with half a dozen friends, but there's 60 people and it's a goat rodeo.
Water was cold. Not 64 like Surflies was saying. 58-59. Bullshit.
Hopped in for a gentlemen's hour session yesterday morning. Not too many of the usual faces in the water. Lots of people surfed out after a steady several days of south swell. But in their absence was an unhealthy number of kooks. A handful of spats popped up throughout the session — all of the offenders living up to cliche stereotypes.
Anyways, kind of a slow session. Sectiony. But found one bowly zipper that was speedy and rippable. Daymaker.
Anyways, kind of a slow session. Sectiony. But found one bowly zipper that was speedy and rippable. Daymaker.
Yeah I hit it Monday evening as well out back, but I got out a little too late, and as soon as the tide got too high, it was either detonating closeouts or drop in/fizzle outs.
Agree that we really need a swell before the true summer doldrums set in. It's been a pretty shitty month with one or two little blips, but nothing to really write home about. I keep checking the forecast like something is going to change, but it's 0-1-2 for eternity.
What I'm most worried about is what the dredge is going to do to our sandbars when we do finally get waves
That's interesting. Monday here felt like it wanted the extra water and it was allowing more size and more open waves. Has not looked appetizing in the mornings with a smaller high tide.Yeah I hit it Monday evening as well out back, but I got out a little too late, and as soon as the tide got too high, it was either detonating closeouts or drop in/fizzle outs.
Agree that we really need a swell before the true summer doldrums set in. It's been a pretty shitty month with one or two little blips, but nothing to really write home about. I keep checking the forecast like something is going to change, but it's 0-1-2 for eternity.
What I'm most worried about is what the dredge is going to do to our sandbars when we do finally get waves
I had some fun days in April but there were just enough trade-style/strong PM SSE onshores that I was kind of not that hype on the frontal passage swell last week, which was basically not happening anywhere I checked except the South Side, and I was not in the right frame of mind to surf in a crowd.
No idea on our dredge. I've seen some very interesting photos from a place more known for dredges down the way, clip or two on youtube. Of course, now everyone has seen those and the last couple things I've seen, instead of mellow crowd sorely needed magnet magnifier it's Ankleslapper Rocks or Doodooluwatu in terms of crowd.
Fun lil session this morning. Long waits for the sets but the inside corner was fairly consistent and the pack was mostly ignoring it. NPJ again. Felt great. Water is still freezing but at least the wind wasn't too strong.
Healing ok, Rookah?
Forecast was for some of my under the radar fave conditions, so hopes were semi high for uncrowded, short, hollow lefts. Just to be an idiot I brought my Pyz 2 and my 8'0 Keogh gun.
Long story short, I took the Keogh and the surf delivered. 5 of us, some barrels, sheet glass, and some super long waves too. Paddling in early on the 8'0, but taking the actual drop real late, then driving it through a barrel is just magic.
Waited too long for an OH last one that never came, but otherwise a beaut of a session.
Forecast was for some of my under the radar fave conditions, so hopes were semi high for uncrowded, short, hollow lefts. Just to be an idiot I brought my Pyz 2 and my 8'0 Keogh gun.
Long story short, I took the Keogh and the surf delivered. 5 of us, some barrels, sheet glass, and some super long waves too. Paddling in early on the 8'0, but taking the actual drop real late, then driving it through a barrel is just magic.
Waited too long for an OH last one that never came, but otherwise a beaut of a session.