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That extra bit of shin/knee protection has resulted in far lesser injuries on the occasional times the board has come back around to bite.2mm short arm full is my favorite suit to surf in
I took out the Baby Buggy the other evening because the gems had easily enough steepness and throw. That was by far the most size/energy I've seen all month. Didn't get any gems. Plenty of push but the ones I got ran away or kind of fizzled after takeoff.Finally got some waves over waist high this morning (barely). Granted it was windy/sloppy but seems like it’s been forever since we’ve had even a little size, so I’ll take it. Rode the 5’9 Sub Driver just to feel something different under my feet and, while not the best choice for the size/conditions, it actually went very well!
Water was cold. Not 64 like Surflies was saying. 58-59. Bullshit.It was pretty meaty down south too, HH-OH sets but pretty mixed up, onshore shape (even tho the wind was calm) and not as good as it looked. Sneaker sets and big closeouts made for a lot of paddling duckdiving. Nobody was really finding the open face so I felt better about feeling like I was never in the right position. Breaking in 20-30’ long sections so I kept thinking I should be able to drop in on the end of the first section, but kept it shifting around or closing out. Caught four waves in an hour. One I went over the handlebars on a late drop, could feel my back foot was in front of the pad. Got two turns in on an in-betweener that was cleaner than the sets so that was the highlight. Longest ride closed out all around me at the first section and I just tried like hell to grip my toes to ride that whitewater buckin bronco all the way in. Lots of kelp loose in the lineup too so that’s fun to navigate. Ah well, at least there wasn’t much of a crowd (maybe 10-15 out) and I got a pretty good workout.
Really? Hope that doesn’t come south. I was in a 2mil and was fine. Guys in springsuits tooWater was cold. Not 64 like Surflies was saying. 58-59. Bullshit.
Water was cold. Not 64 like Surflies was saying. 58-59. Bullshit.
This was DMJs. Not Mugu. Is there a contest at Mugu this weekend?makes sense with the canyon
Are you doing the contest this weekend?
Then nevermind the canyon comment.This was DMJs. Not Mugu. Is there a contest at Mugu this weekend?
Yeah I hit it Monday evening as well out back, but I got out a little too late, and as soon as the tide got too high, it was either detonating closeouts or drop in/fizzle outs.I took out the Baby Buggy the other evening because the gems had easily enough steepness and throw. That was by far the most size/energy I've seen all month. Didn't get any gems. Plenty of push but the ones I got ran away or kind of fizzled after takeoff.
I could really use an early season depression to stave off early season depression. It feels like lots of April and all of May have been July minus this little weird NE blowout. Just a ton of small southerly. Not encouraged by how "over it" I feel and it's not even June yet. Check the street, check the other cams, looks very uninspiring. Check South Side. Would be very fun with half a dozen friends, but there's 60 people and it's a goat rodeo.
That's interesting. Monday here felt like it wanted the extra water and it was allowing more size and more open waves. Has not looked appetizing in the mornings with a smaller high tide.Yeah I hit it Monday evening as well out back, but I got out a little too late, and as soon as the tide got too high, it was either detonating closeouts or drop in/fizzle outs.
Agree that we really need a swell before the true summer doldrums set in. It's been a pretty shitty month with one or two little blips, but nothing to really write home about. I keep checking the forecast like something is going to change, but it's 0-1-2 for eternity.
What I'm most worried about is what the dredge is going to do to our sandbars when we do finally get waves![]()