*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***

slipped_disc

Michael Peterson status
Jun 27, 2019
1,835
2,851
113
Spent the better part of the day inhaling drywall dust. Rinsed off for two hours when the wind dropped and lucked into some pulsing swell. Fast walls, good for building up speed and blowing all the speed on one big turn.
 

motosurf

Nep status
Nov 19, 2008
633
212
43
805
What a difference a day makes. Was working to the north and was hoping for another good session like the weekend. Still some
solid sets but was onshore, mushy and closed out. Found a few reforms, fell on two turns, did a floater and called it a day.
 

000

Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
26,520
8,063
113
yesterday morn internet, 2 sources said the wind was good. went, and wind was like 10mph onshore- worthless.

today 2 internet sources said wind was bad. but flag was blowing offshore. i went. it was choppy as hell, but got 1 decent wave
 
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Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
3,248
4,960
113
Innzid
Absolute dogsh!t, straight onshore, but HH and somehow turned into a fun little session. Back on the Pyz 2 and it went.
 

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,486
24,151
113
PNW
Fun peelers at my local. My knee has been lame so I missed the best of the swell but I had a good sesh this evening on the 6-8 NPJ. Water is bone chillingly cold.
 

Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
3,248
4,960
113
Innzid
Far canal! My full commiserations.

It was 19-20C here a few weeks ago, but has dropped to 16C, which is cold for May by our standards.
 
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Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
69,784
22,906
113
The Bar
Took a trip down to LA this past weekend for high school reunion, visit friends, etc. A little bit of swell in the water so brought a couple boards, wetsuit situation was sticky, a short-arm full or a hooded 5/4? Forecast a few days prior said around 59-61 degree water. I've surfed twice in pretty much the last 6 months, had a little anxiety about how much altitude the plane has lost. Now I know:

1716304903040.png

Didn't sleep Friday night, felt ragged but promised to meet my old college roommate to go running and we put in a good 14 miles in the Chesebro Hills. Awesome area. Cleaned up and jetted to HS reunion, fucking awesome time and ended up closing the bar down where the after-party was. Still off the sauce but no matter, socially starved AF, even more than wave starved, great seeing so many longtime friends for first time in ages. Non-surfing extracurriculars on Sunday but motivated Monday as knew there would be waves.

And there was in N. LA County. Actually, waves were decent. Not maz level by any stretch but fun looking enough. That water was cold as hell - 57? I'm skinny too so in a short-arm full, that was hard. I surfed the 6'6" Speed Demon with the YUs if you could call it surfing. Between the massive rust, absolutely freezing fucking water (I was having full-body trembles 10 minutes in), and after surfing roundpins for god knows how long and opting for a board that is looser than JAH's meat curtains, yeah, that was a massive disaster. 2 waves, both surfed absolutely trash. I am sure I would have gotten everything wired within a few more waves but just too cold, whatever nimbleness I have was not being put to use as all muscles were clenched just to keep from shivering. And whatever paddling strength/muscle I might have had is gone.

But this is good. Now I KNOW where I am at.

And it's time to stop fucking around, hit the gym, and surf when it's worthwhile enough to bother. Likely taking another trip down to LA later this summer and definitely plan on surfing when I'm down there.
 
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Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
69,784
22,906
113
The Bar
Hopefully this gets some surf stock back in the belly and you get on it again!
Oh yeah. I'm still running like a motherfooker, got a 50K trailrace coming up in July. So the good thing is my cardio is absolutely on point. But I have the equivalent of a springsuit bootie tan, which is hilarious.

I do like the feeling of a short-arm full; actually prefer them even to trunks. Light, you don't get thigh rash, nut rash, and you have more glide through the water as there is less friction. But even though I froze my ass off, one of the coldest sessions I've had in a long time, man, it felt so good to be in the water again. I need the ocean. We go well together.

The whole weekend overall kicked ass. Didn't even hit much traffic.

Sounds to me like a fires been lit.…
Damn straight.