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Nice! Same here on NYE, I was out from like noon-2pm, paddled out at nearly Kelly’s, found a nice little closeout barrel, tried to fight the current for a while, drifted through a bunch of junk, and then sat around VFWs/just south for a little and found a couple fun rights that lined up and stayed open enough for a few wiggles. Might’ve crossed paths, I only saw like 3-4 other people out.Missed the mega swell to family and work obligations.
Finally surfed yesterday afternoon on the North end of The Beach.
Couple very wedgy double ups before the tied drained too far out.
It looked very fun this afternoon but I had my 6 year old in the shorebreak dodging crab fisherman on the boogie board.
Nice! Same here on NYE, I was out from like noon-2pm, paddled out at nearly Kelly’s, found a nice little closeout barrel, tried to fight the current for a while, drifted through a bunch of junk, and then sat around VFWs/just south for a little and found a couple fun rights that lined up and stayed open enough for a few wiggles. Might’ve crossed paths, I only saw like 3-4 other people out.
We coached them into a few waves and they started having fun, afterwards buying them beers at the bar down the beach. LA music writer guy showed up later and was not happy. We left and headed to my casa, I invited some friends over and made tuna tacos.
.*This was written at the airport before heading back to America for two weeks.