Didn't see one started yet, so I wiil do the honors. Today the waves were in the smaller range compared to the last few days to start the new year. Head high sets with some backwash at a spot nearby, paddled the 7'2 kenson twinzer for an easy session, got some fun rights and a couple lefts, just had to be wary of the backwash. Getting out of the water I used the breaking wave to wash up towards the cobblestones and kind of tweaked my back as I braced my feet on the bottom and popped up to run up the beach. Gonna sit in the jacuzzi and stretch it out.
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*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter b.r.
- Start date
After about a month out of the water due to a back injury, really happy to snag a head high left at a semi crowded spot in clean sunny conditions this AM on the Pyzel Red Tiger 
after 2023 being the least amount of surfing ive ever done in my life - ive surfed everyday the last 2 weeks except 1. im beat up from the feet up,all my shortboards now have holes in them (all from kooks ditching boards into me) but I hope to keep the momentum going.
fun shifty peaks about shoulder high + in south OC this a.m. - lots of peeps but generally friendly vibe. beautiful crisp morning to start the new year off right. now gotta find someone to fix these boards.
fun shifty peaks about shoulder high + in south OC this a.m. - lots of peeps but generally friendly vibe. beautiful crisp morning to start the new year off right. now gotta find someone to fix these boards.
Well that was a super duper double sesh.
AM closeouts with friends, PM peelers with strangers, and now a beer while waiting for the Thai take out to be delivered.
Should be asleep by 8:30......whooping it up in style already!
AM closeouts with friends, PM peelers with strangers, and now a beer while waiting for the Thai take out to be delivered.
Should be asleep by 8:30......whooping it up in style already!
Some 2-3'+ west swell leftovers. Super clean and glassy with only a few heads out 
Flat as fook here for the past couple days but hoping to gravel some knee high wind slop on Wednesday 
Surfed the point early. Rode the grovelor. Fun was had, good vibes in the water.
everyone was getting waves Not big but still fun size.
roasted a younger guy on a really nice set wave , he must have taken off late behind the peak and battled whitewater the whole way. noticed him after several turns
. I weas going in and saw him doing the same.
went up to apologize , he laughed and gave me a high five. good way to start the year.
everyone was getting waves Not big but still fun size.
roasted a younger guy on a really nice set wave , he must have taken off late behind the peak and battled whitewater the whole way. noticed him after several turns
. I weas going in and saw him doing the same.went up to apologize , he laughed and gave me a high five. good way to start the year.
Beautiful conditions and there were some good waves to be had, but pretty inconsistent, crowded, and most were fat and slopey. Should have had a mid or lb to capitalize. Got one fast runner right and lots of meh others. Still fun
Showed up to the spot feeling a bit GERDy from NYE food and drink. So when I saw that the waves were pumping it took my body a few minutes — and a quick puke — to get ready and psyched. Rough start. But once I paddled out was feeling fine.
interesting swell. 2-something foot at 20 seconds mixed with a 5@13. Ended up creating some fast tubing walls. A couple of stickered-up kids from town were making it look easy to get completely shacked on every wave. In reality, for me, it was tricky and fast and tight.
quick session. Only had a 40 minute window. One satisfying turn but that was completely overshadowed by the disappointment of not getting a crispy clean tube that I kept seeing these kids pull into. Good fuel to get more tubes this year I guess.
rode the 6’4” Chris Gallagher with AM-2s.
interesting swell. 2-something foot at 20 seconds mixed with a 5@13. Ended up creating some fast tubing walls. A couple of stickered-up kids from town were making it look easy to get completely shacked on every wave. In reality, for me, it was tricky and fast and tight.
quick session. Only had a 40 minute window. One satisfying turn but that was completely overshadowed by the disappointment of not getting a crispy clean tube that I kept seeing these kids pull into. Good fuel to get more tubes this year I guess.
rode the 6’4” Chris Gallagher with AM-2s.
Scored a pretty good afternoon session at Haleiwa after kinda writing the day off. 3ft Hawaiian, chill crowd, no current. Hadn't surfed out there since 2018 but was reminded about how fun it can be when it's small. Heading back to SD tomorrow morning, but gonna get a dawnie in before we head to the airport.
Paddled yesterday, decreasing swell. Caught a few meags. Missed two, Then the lull hit, then I got cold, then the back started seizing up. Hot shower for the win.
was out of town a bunch and got back just in time for some great surf. Great way to start of 2024
Well, I guess I know how sandbars rearranged themselves after that swell. Solid overhead lefts on outer sandbars, hollow, grinding, for at least 100 yards and then another 100 yards of rippable Trestles-like inside section. Channel where it dumped out too.
All completely inaccessible due to the shorebreak sandbar moving about 100 feet offshore, relentless overhead dumpers every 6 seconds (many of which were spitting/barfing barrels) with an occasional 15 second lull, with a visibly massive sweep up the beach that you would have no hope of even getting to or staying in position on. Watched it vainly for an hour with another local.
Ended up at the alternative spot Gabriel Garcia Marquez would have called 363 Days of Dogshit. Needed to get wet but shouldn't have bothered, backwashy, dumpy, closeout crap.
All completely inaccessible due to the shorebreak sandbar moving about 100 feet offshore, relentless overhead dumpers every 6 seconds (many of which were spitting/barfing barrels) with an occasional 15 second lull, with a visibly massive sweep up the beach that you would have no hope of even getting to or staying in position on. Watched it vainly for an hour with another local.
Ended up at the alternative spot Gabriel Garcia Marquez would have called 363 Days of Dogshit. Needed to get wet but shouldn't have bothered, backwashy, dumpy, closeout crap.
Woke up gimpy today (after yesterday's double).
The tube that I didn't make had tumbled me with the board and either the fin or the rail hit the outside of my right thigh pretty well. Same with my right arm triceps.
All things considered, not too terrible, but more indication of the arrow of time (getting more on target). Oh well.
The tube that I didn't make had tumbled me with the board and either the fin or the rail hit the outside of my right thigh pretty well. Same with my right arm triceps.
All things considered, not too terrible, but more indication of the arrow of time (getting more on target). Oh well.
Really fun end of the year swell at my hometown break. Almost double overhead on the largest sets. Was pissed that I blew an inside chube section on one wave. Two days later, I lucked into the exact same scenario (except on a bigger wave) and came out. Rare to get the same opportunity twice on different days surfing the spots I do but I was very grateful and felt totally redeemed.
Back home at first light on New Years day. Only one out for the first hour, but admittedly a little spooked by the absence of people. Looked playful at first but some solid swell started pulsing and the takeoff spot seemed to perpetually move further and further out making it a challenging session. Nevertheless, a great ending to last year and nice start to this one.
Back home at first light on New Years day. Only one out for the first hour, but admittedly a little spooked by the absence of people. Looked playful at first but some solid swell started pulsing and the takeoff spot seemed to perpetually move further and further out making it a challenging session. Nevertheless, a great ending to last year and nice start to this one.
Dawn patrolled Sunset on my 8'0" before putting it back in the stash and heading to the airport. Super fun, still the occasional six foot set but overall mellow. Last wave I got deep up by the point and rode all the way through. Stocked!
Trip was fun, didn't really get the conditions I was looking for but still managed to get in the water all but two days. Was good to see friends and share waves. Ready to get back to my waist high mushy point breaks.
Trip was fun, didn't really get the conditions I was looking for but still managed to get in the water all but two days. Was good to see friends and share waves. Ready to get back to my waist high mushy point breaks.
some fat rollers that would double up to a slabby closeout on the inside bar this morning in SLA on the Spegg. Just gliding and safety swooping shoulder+ high peelers then, wham! caverns on the sand. kinda fun tbh. dropped off all my boards at the ding repair so its gonna be the spegg and banjo only for a couple weeks. yay
looked fun so i went
it started off fun
but was behaving like high tide despite being a 3.0
it quickly went to what felt like a 10.0
this was jan 1st
1st wave of the day/year
it started off fun
but was behaving like high tide despite being a 3.0
it quickly went to what felt like a 10.0
this was jan 1st
1st wave of the day/year
todays crowd was epic!! super fun 3 hour session. Not looking forward to work ramping up. May be time to retire
Solo at a point Ive never surfed before. Big sets were breaking wide and mushing out. Tweeners were the good ones. Lots of duckdiving was required. Really regretted wearing the surf hat, doh. Got a few nugs though with one in particular being especially ripable. Might try again tomorrow hopefully it will be a little smaller.