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*** Official 2023 Community Surf Journal ***

T

Tarab_ish

Legend (inyourownmind)
Nov 14, 2018
358
853
93
Haven't posted in this thread in forever, also hadn't surfed two days in a row or really enjoyed surfing since...that south in May I think?

Evening surfs on Sun and Mon at the beach out front, mostly waist-chest and dumpy and a bit bumpy. Surfed my eps quad groveler thing. Went from feeling like I forgot how to paddle to doing a few good snaps here and there. Forgot how much I liked it!
 
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000

000

Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
26,213
7,557
113
well today was very misty andd a bad wind. also lightning and thunder. i almost didnt surf. i figured riding my bike would make me more of a lightning rod. also it was not close, so i surfed, alone. on the good lefts it was semi offshore. it was worth while. couple long fast ones. seemed like wind was getting worse and it was inconsistent as always so i bailed. the only disturbing thing was on my way back ther was a dork surfing my other "secret" spot. it was probably quite bad, so hopefully he doesnt return.
 
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stringcheese

stringcheese

Miki Dora status
Jun 21, 2017
4,069
3,897
113
Surf continues to suck on the central coast, but on the upside haven't had to wear a suit in a while. Caught about a hundred little closeouts last session to get two that opened up enough to do some turns. I'll miss boardshorts water but if we don't get waves soon I'm moving to Montana and learning to farm or something.
 
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Reactions: need 4 speed, Havoc and Kento
Aruka

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,220
23,331
113
PNW
Surfed a sneaky beachbreak cove alone yesterday. I intended to hunt a few rights but the lefts ended up being a bit better and more surfable. Rode the mid6 which I dont love but it was well suited to the shifty, punchy head high peaks and my overall lack of paddle fitness. Water was warm enough to be comfortable without gloves and the air was legit toasty. I was really trying to take it easy and just cruise on a few. The waves were actually really fun though and eventually i couldnt help but wrap a couple cutties. Jesus it felt good to get wet and feel some energy under my feet. Got one left in particular that i had to race a few outside sections and then it slowed up and offered a couple inward bending sections to carve through. My paddle power is not great but otherwise i felt decent as far as actually surfing the waves. Best of all my knee felt no worse for the wear this morning. Still, got a ways to go.
 
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Reactions: chilly1, Bob Dobbalina, MathDebater and 16 others
000

000

Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
26,213
7,557
113
surfed alone yesterday. today was worse. borderline worthwhile, bad wind, less real swell, some short period to make it worse for positioning. but when it sucks at least u dont have anyone else come out. but then 1 came. then 2 more, then 3 more. i fell on my good set wave floater landing and went in. saw 2 more coming out. alone was barely worthy...
and once again, a new dork was at my secret spot
 
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bluengreen

bluengreen

Michael Peterson status
Oct 22, 2018
1,772
4,664
113
SF x Encinitas
Dropped another foot of board length for yesterday's session, paddling out on the 6'1 Traveler. Swamis was weak and very lully. Forgot the 2 mil top, so gooseflesh was my only insulation. Paddled the long way to Boneyards hoping to get a few set waves. A squad of 4 tongue-wagging, back-slapping bro-brahs, 1 alpha loc, and a coupla old farts on logs were not yielding position. Sat just underneath them hoping to sneak a coupla insiders, but alas, the insiders were too weak and not lining up enough for a 200lb man on shortboar. 1 and done.
 
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Reactions: tacos, Tarab_ish, Kento and 4 others
Aruka

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,220
23,331
113
PNW
dawn patrolled my favorite spot up north. overcast and glassy. a welcome break from the intense sun and north winds. kind of a wonky swell but plenty of size, push and lots of opportunities to nab a right hand corner. i still rode the middy and took it pretty easy but got lots of waves and had a good time. the water was much colder than it had been down south and i regretted not wearing my gloves. got a couple carves that felt good but my best wave was probably a grower that doubled up and charged down the bar. just going fast and making sections was very satisfying.
 
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Reactions: chilly1, Tarab_ish, stringcheese and 8 others
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