Swell came up, crowd was out, waves headhigh+ on the sets, which were very inconsistent, decided to paddle out and catch one fun one. Paddled out, missed a couple, caught a fun one, came in. Less than 15 minutes. South wind came up shortly after. Later nerdz!
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*** Official 2023 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter vanrysss
- Start date
Surfed the surgical table. This almost guarantees epic surf in the coming months for you guys while I'm on the couch. Get your good boards ready.
Heal up well amigo.
I have only surfed once in the past 5 months. Knee is feeling decent so I might give it a try soon.
I have only surfed once in the past 5 months. Knee is feeling decent so I might give it a try soon.
Its ok, I'll live through the eyes of you guys for a bit and probably end up ordering a bunch of boards I shouldn't in the meantime 
Glad to hear the knee is trending the right way Ruka
Glad to hear the knee is trending the right way Ruka
today is 1 month since my accident
still healing, feel normal. surfed 3 x this month
last 2 days pretty fun, but still long waits, shifty peaks, and closeouts.
today a bum tried to steal my bike. he was in his 60s so i didnt give him a bruise.
he dragged it 100 yards with the lock on the back tire
claimed he just got it away from the water for me. pure bs. and he had his own bike already.
cable was all up in the chain and gears and not easy to fix. but i did. hands sure got nasty.
3rd time someones tried to steal my bike there, but i probably surf it 100 times a year for at least a decade with a bike
1 month of healing
still healing, feel normal. surfed 3 x this month
last 2 days pretty fun, but still long waits, shifty peaks, and closeouts.
today a bum tried to steal my bike. he was in his 60s so i didnt give him a bruise.
he dragged it 100 yards with the lock on the back tire
claimed he just got it away from the water for me. pure bs. and he had his own bike already.
cable was all up in the chain and gears and not easy to fix. but i did. hands sure got nasty.
3rd time someones tried to steal my bike there, but i probably surf it 100 times a year for at least a decade with a bike
1 month of healing
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Hadn't surfed since Hawaii and was itching. Been doing a bunch of running, including 17 miles yesterday, training for marathon in just a couple weeks. So glad I surfed today too because it was fun! Chest to shoulder high with the occasional HH set wave. Was really crowded at first but thinned out over time and all but disappearing. All as the waves were getting better as the tide peaked and started slowly dropping. A-frame peaks but the lefts were better, wedging up nicely and sucking out a little. Unfortunately, couldn't tell which ones barreled and which ones crumbled until you were into it. Got a couple barrels and also got a couple thick chandeliers that I said screw it and tried to drive through anyways. Very unsuccessful.
Rusty at first. I think I need to swap out the trailer fin on the 6'6" Senate so it's a little looser, got a lot of good waves, just working 1/4-mile worth of sandbar where waves and current took me for about 4 1/2 hours. Such a good sesh, lot of good turns, fucked up a couple waves to be sure, but overall so much fun and exactly what doctor ordered. Could have stayed out all day if I had the time.
Rusty at first. I think I need to swap out the trailer fin on the 6'6" Senate so it's a little looser, got a lot of good waves, just working 1/4-mile worth of sandbar where waves and current took me for about 4 1/2 hours. Such a good sesh, lot of good turns, fucked up a couple waves to be sure, but overall so much fun and exactly what doctor ordered. Could have stayed out all day if I had the time.
Sh!t, I surfed 4 hours today, 2 hours yesterday, and 3 hours on Friday - all fun, clean, and enjoyable sessions (the last 2 hour session today was the winner). Remember when we used to surf? That whole thing?
Surfed the North end of The Beach yesterday morning with everyone else. Rode a DD shortboard. It was high tide, chest to head high, thumpy wedges. Some had some walls that ran, some closed out, some looked really rippable. I got one runner but mostly got lumped on the others. Tired, out of shape/practice, crowd. Nonetheless, sun poked out and a nice morning. The funniest thing was alternating between getting smoked on the sandbar paddling out, then getting out with hair dry in what felt like 10 seconds, only to go back to getting pounded the next round.
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a few today, probably better than yesterday, couple long fast ones
more dorks out
and 3 went in when i did
more dorks out
and 3 went in when i did
got on it too late. windy junk. managed a roundy to foam rebound tho on a nugget. water is much colder
3 days of real waves and dreaming about early Fall. First waves with a clean face, power and form in so long.
Sat chest high peaks with some push. Rode the 5'10 Stamps. Fun quick little runners no bottom to the wave. Only out about 45 min but caught a couple doz waves.
Sunday Woke up with a tweaked back. Ugh old and 5'10 and quick popups hurts. Anyway, swell increased, same peaks a little more walled with some more thump. Rode the 6'7 Parmy for ease of everything. Pulled in to a couple close outs and some nice frontside walls that stayed open for some turns. Super fun even with an achy back.
Today size dropped a bit but some bigger sets and better peaks. One ripper out and a sponger.Back was a little better but rode the Parmy just because I love her so. We had great waves. Solid draining tube that sucked out right in front of the ripper. A couple set wave lefts backside with one big hack spraying the ripper and the sponger.
The little joys in life.
Sat chest high peaks with some push. Rode the 5'10 Stamps. Fun quick little runners no bottom to the wave. Only out about 45 min but caught a couple doz waves.
Sunday Woke up with a tweaked back. Ugh old and 5'10 and quick popups hurts. Anyway, swell increased, same peaks a little more walled with some more thump. Rode the 6'7 Parmy for ease of everything. Pulled in to a couple close outs and some nice frontside walls that stayed open for some turns. Super fun even with an achy back.
Today size dropped a bit but some bigger sets and better peaks. One ripper out and a sponger.Back was a little better but rode the Parmy just because I love her so. We had great waves. Solid draining tube that sucked out right in front of the ripper. A couple set wave lefts backside with one big hack spraying the ripper and the sponger.
The little joys in life.
When it's small, Southerly, and onshore wind in the afternoon there's basically one spot that's okay in close proximity. Off a jetty, it's a left that's normally swarmed by a pack of teenage rippers, but for some reason, first day of school maybe? it was empty when I got there today. Surfed it for about an hour with only one other guy on a Wavestorm. We were comfortably taking turns until he ate it taking off on a set wave and went in. He may have gotten a little battered on the jetty rocks. It was only about shoulder high and there was no good reason for him blowing it but I felt a curious, and perhaps misplaced, bit of pride that he went for it anyway. Anyway, it was small and a little dirty with the onshore but fun.
Good news or not (Surf P.E.) but some of the public schools in north county s.d. start up tomorrow. I had to jump in the water to get good and tired so I can get to sleep tonight and be ready for my 31st year of teaching. Surfed my local which I have abandoned all summer due to the crowds and conditions favoring other zones, got some fun waves trying to connect the dots on the s.w. sets and some wind ripple, last wave in was the best and I saw some former students on the way back to the car. They threw rocks at me..
Typhon swell incoming, so trying to transition back to shortboards after logging it up the past few weeks. I took the 7'2 Hess Traveler gun out at Swamis 
. Sets were 2 foot Hawaiian at the top of the point with some carvable sections on offer. Board felt downright shreddy compared to the log. Not ideal, but surprised how well it went in weak surf given the fact that it was my go-to in 2x overhead long period OB.
. Sets were 2 foot Hawaiian at the top of the point with some carvable sections on offer. Board felt downright shreddy compared to the log. Not ideal, but surprised how well it went in weak surf given the fact that it was my go-to in 2x overhead long period OB.Same spot as Saturday but with a quarter or less of the crowd. Glassy, combo swell, water warmed up a TON since 3 days ago, surfed 2 hours, had a blast.
i hadn't surfed since april. after running the dog this morning i stopped by the hook/sharks for a surf check. decent waist highish waves and not that many people out. came home to down a smoothie and check work emails and then loaded up the log. got out and got three decent waves and was back in the truck within 20 minutes. i consider this a major success. surfing is pretty fun...
Session 1, some long period sets. Some size on lower tide but inconsistent. Got one of better rights in a while. hh reeler for 100 yards. Lots of paddling when the sets came. got about 15 of the set waves. And got out bc got too tired. Refueled for session 2 which was waist to stomach but lined up. Got a couple zippy waves and called it a day. Man I’m beat. a$$hole twinzer ftw!
bit windy but pretty fun
got the most waves of any session this week
also put my knee into my rail and got a ding
no new injury to me
a guy who is a friend, yet i'd rather not have in the water with me, came out.
he just retired, so no more solo sessions for me
although surfing with him is like surfing with 3 others, it was just him and me out
got the most waves of any session this week
also put my knee into my rail and got a ding
no new injury to me
a guy who is a friend, yet i'd rather not have in the water with me, came out.
he just retired, so no more solo sessions for me
although surfing with him is like surfing with 3 others, it was just him and me out