*** Official 2023 Community Surf Journal ***

bluengreen

Michael Peterson status
Oct 22, 2018
1,763
4,641
113
SF x Encinitas
Just two sessions recently. One absolutely blown-out, low-tide desperation session last Friday. Watched from work as it went from doable to downright horrid by the time I could escape. Surfed out of spite, really.

Took a personal day yesterday and had an epic session with the wife :monkey: before heading over to Danny Hess' Woodshop to order a new step-up. 6'6 twin + trailer in full water tower redwood. Then scored a surprisingly fun afternoon cleanup on the Plasmic. Was first one out. Few homies followed me after I grabbed 3-4 in quick succession by myself. Several front side hacks and lippers later, called it a session. Stocked!
 
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need 4 speed

Phil Edwards status
Nov 1, 2003
6,676
3,579
113
SoCal
Started the with French toast bacon and some Nicaraguan "coffee" headed over and surfed small Popoyo on a dropping tide. A few fun runners,bit inconsistent for the crowd . Good to shake off the ring rust. Knees are already getting raw . Afternoon session scheduled by my guide and going to a local rodeo this evening. Nicawaves is awesome
 

Mr J

Michael Peterson status
Aug 18, 2003
2,250
1,454
113
Regional Vic, Australia
I've hardly been on my shortboar in recent weeks, been mainly enthralled with standup boog or "lids" as they are called in Oz. Lid is short for esky lid, which is short for Eskimo brand cooler box which used to be a popular brand here. The boog resembles the lid of a cooler box. Still not past the beginner stage, although really enjoying the challenge. Difficulties encountered are the back foot missing the tail of the board during the pop up, coz board is missing some length that I am accustomed to on my shortboar. I'm chicken winging myself onto the lid. The pro surfers who boog such as Chipper Wilson and Koa Smith appear to be doing the both feet together pop up. However the chicken wing is working for me and my surfing lessons from 2021 got me to convert my popup to the chicken wing, so I have no plans to change back. The hands need to be placed well forward on the deck to get the legs on, this can sometimes cause the front to submerge and nose dive. I have not had any success with angled backhand takeoffs.

The Drag Ando 45" is quite a high end lid for less than $400 AUD delivered from NSW. Mesh reinforced slick, polypro core (the best) and double carbon stringer.

Some soloshot from a grey morning last week.

 
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slipped_disc

Billy Hamilton status
Jun 27, 2019
1,455
2,187
113
East coast dudes have been scoring!

I’m long overdue for an update here. I’ve had a bit of a reckoning this winter. I’m officially in a quiver crisis. Ten pounds heavier and five years older than my dims can support — and have a kid on the way.

Many, many frustrating sessions to come to this realization. Two boards in my quiver keep me going. The latest session (few days ago now) was at a go-to right point on the 5’8 Quantum Quad w/ Rasta quads. Very redeeming. Open walls, a few competent turns, and a celebratory beer.
 

need 4 speed

Phil Edwards status
Nov 1, 2003
6,676
3,579
113
SoCal
Boated up to a break called playgrounds, still waist to chest with a little too much tide. Similar to the at Lowers cobblestone "reef" left. A bit warbling and a fair amount of offshore wind made conditions less than ideal, but we made the most of what was available. Trolled back and got bit a couple times by big needle fish but failed to hook(locals love them for ceviche) Santana this afternoon, fingers crossed swell should be increasing.
 

Senor Sopa

Billy Hamilton status
Mar 11, 2015
1,366
2,176
113
Ponto
Sheesh, first sess in 5-6 weeks, it's been bad. Went down the street to a spot the rhymes with "weak uns", and fark, foggy. Mini nap of 10 minutes and it looked good enough to paddle. I have to say, weak waves are harder to ride than good ones. Caught plenty of backside trims. Fast, but no bottom, and just enough lip to worry about tipping the boar. Thusly, just keep the highline trim and milk it. Way too many that just don't break. Only 4 other guys out, it's not all bad.

Highlight was watching the guy that took my entire nap to get his wetsuit on, go down hard in the combo mossy slip and ankle breaker crevice zone. LOL, this beach is making up for weak sauce waves with danger ingress/egress.

Euro couple next to me in the new Jaguar were getting ready for a 2 hour surf lesson, $180 bucks.
 

Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
3,041
4,551
113
Innzid
Spent a glorious weekend at - a lake!

So flat, but just what the doc ordered. Pre dawn swims; long walks before breakfast; boat rides across lake to natural hot pools; kayaking; rowboat jaunts with our friends' little kids who loooved it; more swimming; more beer; more food and great company.

Back surfing today, in rare onshore windswell beach break.

 

Bob Dobbalina

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2016
4,261
4,654
113
Spent a glorious weekend at - a lake!

So flat, but just what the doc ordered. Pre dawn swims; long walks before breakfast; boat rides across lake to natural hot pools; kayaking; rowboat jaunts with our friends' little kids who loooved it; more swimming; more beer; more food and great company.

Back surfing today, in rare onshore windswell beach break.


Your posts (not this one, specifically, but in general), have had me really considering the idea of taking the family to NZ. I went with some friends when I was 18-19, so it's been 20 years, but man, it looks enticing.
 

need 4 speed

Phil Edwards status
Nov 1, 2003
6,676
3,579
113
SoCal
4-6' Playgrounds with a smattering of over head bombs. Crowd varied from tolerable to wtf. 50/50 mix of competent/rippers and shoulder dwellers. Caught my share(although a guide from elsewhere asked me to slow down) including a couple of bombs. Killer food at Nicawaves post session. Possibly Popoyo at 1:30 rising tide/second shift
6-2 basalt twinzer working well, but plans to update the file and redo
 

Bob Dobbalina

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2016
4,261
4,654
113
4-6' Playgrounds with a smattering of over head bombs. Crowd varied from tolerable to wtf. 50/50 mix of competent/rippers and shoulder dwellers. Caught my share(although a guide from elsewhere asked me to slow down) including a couple of bombs. Killer food at Nicawaves post session. Possibly Popoyo at 1:30 rising tide/second shift
6-2 basalt twinzer working well, but plans to update the file and redo

Did you meet Sean?