*** Official 2023 Community Surf Journal ***

sdsrfr

Phil Edwards status
Jul 13, 2020
5,857
11,267
113
San Diego
more closeouts, hard to find a corner. I feel out of shape. at least can confirm Pyzalien2 will paddle into crappy waves too. beautiful crisp morning
Lol... same. was gonna say -

pulled into a lot of close outs. Some of them were better than others. caught a wide one that gave a long racing wall and called it a win.
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,276
113
San Diego, CA
Sand pretty much gone after recent swells so waves crashing on rocks even what should be mid tide. Fun for entry /exit.
Looked like some fun groomers from shore with a fair bit of off/sideshore wind. Put back the Varial phantom, and grabbed the PU I had in the car: 5’11 Lovelace Burner twin.
About 10 out, with a couple young insta-famous rippers. Most were on the lefts so I stuck to the chunkier rights. Waves were fun but punchy and had a good amount of chop so not as clean as it appeared. Got a bunch of CH peaky rights, got pounded by closeout sets. Lots of water moving around.
This twin is pretty much a roundtail fish but squirrelly in punchy waves like this. Boxes definitely further up than I’ve gotten used to. Should’ve ran keels but didn’t have them. My best session on it was piggybacks and keels have felt like overkill in softer waves. Today was just too loose and twitchy with uprights and I don’t seem to click with this rail profile (thin but no down rail or edge). 50/50? I don’t know what this kinda rail is called. I had a midlength with this same rail and didn’t like it. Revoke my hipster card. Anyway, none of my carves felt smooth like I want from my twins. DM me if interested. LOL
 
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MathDebater

Michael Peterson status
Apr 13, 2016
2,584
6,128
113
SD
I let my expectations get way too high this morning. I got a few fun ones but it was pretty messy/sectiony. About halfway through the session the offshores started blasting to the point where there were dust clouds in the line up And all I could do on the wave was try and keep my nose pointed the right way. Early in the session I encountered the most playful pack of dolphins. They were swimming all around me going back and forth Under me, to the point I could feel their wakes under my feet. Pretty epic.
 

Northern_Shores

Miki Dora status
Mar 30, 2009
4,487
4,404
113
Went out to the outer bars and tried to bar chop hop.
Me too, bro! Didn't make any today :/ My feet got so cold it was like surfing with wooden shoes.

1674768720568.png
(I need a new camera. The kids are all into Sony VX1000 grainy sh!t, but this is just too much)

seeing the hotties just over there.
I share the pain :roflmao:

1674768955189.png


7’2 twin was fun.
Clearly it was not.
If you want chop hops and hotties, you need to reconsider the board choice. A 7'2" twin will get you nothing but saggy lesbos and I don't know what else.
 
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need 4 speed

Phil Edwards status
Nov 1, 2003
6,676
3,579
113
SoCal
Lot of wind in the zone linked with highish tide and a huge trough where the inner bar should be made tough conditions. Needed to wait on the bigger ones and pick through the lined up to find the gems. Tough with 20+ knots of offshore wind. managed a couple decent ones but lots of paddling. 6-4 basalt twinzer :shaka:
 

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
11,990
22,531
113
PNW
low expectations. almost didn't even bother looking but around 2pm i started to feel that itch. when I rolled up to the reef it was actually looking pretty fun. a little wind on it but the kelp was keeping the faces clean. i think the fresh long interval swell was filling in earlier than forecasted. not big, like chest high but nice long lines moving along. took out the Disco Cheater. put in h4 fins for the first time and they felt good to me. DC is such an epic little board. i forgot how much i like it. i told myself i wasn't going to overdo it but i ended up staying out for at least a couple hours because the waves just kept getting better as the tide filled in. eventually two other guys came out but they seemed to struggle with wave selection and kept chasing the deep ones that don't connect through so i was unaffected.
 

Bob Dobbalina

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2016
4,261
4,656
113
I finally had a window to surf after Covid family and puking 4 year old duty.
3:30, Glassy, Offshore post Costco drive by.
3:45 All clear from wifey
3:50 Check in with buddy who said it's doable out front but bring something that can paddle because there's a ton of current.
4:05 Park, Suit up, look over the highway and feel the wind switch to North West, blowing away all of the groomed inner wedgedom.

Anyway. I rode a 6'10" step up and caught 2 waves. The paddle out felt really short interval, almost windswelly. The tide was draining, the wind came up, and the inner bars were a mix of wedgie reforming fun ones and monsters with double ups nearly as thick as they were tall. After the 2nd I was considering paddling out or in and got stuck in the impact zone for 3 progressively thicker double ups. The kind where 15 feet in any direction makes all the difference in the world but it's too late so you just take donuts.
 

tacos

Michael Peterson status
Feb 12, 2006
3,514
550
113
LB —> SF
Quick late morning session for me, stuck to the inner bar and got a couple for the day and went in, nothing noteworthy except eating sh!t on a late drop from being stuck in the lip with the offshores— I’m probably gonna feel tomorrow. :monkey: Agreed—definitely felt shorter interval than what the buoy read.
 

bluengreen

Michael Peterson status
Oct 22, 2018
1,763
4,641
113
SF x Encinitas
Similar experience to WokeAF. Getting through the inner bar was a nightmare, and I took a rest in the trough between bars before slowly working my way to the outside which felt out-fucking-side. Was gassed after three days of punishment so I mainly just floated and left my haul to the fates. They were not kind.
 

b.r.

Phil Edwards status
Dec 19, 2003
5,922
3,034
113
Leucadia
www.youtube.com
Wind was howling during my mid morning window, drove to spot A but looked uber crowded with a standup guy in the middle and not many sets, went to spot B but the wind seeemed to be howling sideshore and tide too high so gave up and went back to work, turned out to be much cleaner in the late afternoon and paddled out and caught some fun ones although there were a lot of closeouts, I'm thinking it was more swell direction, but the bottom is really chewed up so time will tell. wore my 3/2 with booties because my 4/3 was wet and cold. My old arthritic hands couldn't button my shirt after I got out, I think i'm gonna need to move to the tropics for my golden years.
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,499
23,098
113
Tower 13
Single session! Scored some 3-5" saggy closesouts with a relatively light crowd. No dolphins.

Made this gif from todays practice so you can all study and learn :)

View attachment 146877
Love this, NS. What's that board called, Satan's tongue?

Fun clean organized rippable waves on the 6'1" this morning. Beautiful out. My kind of winter day.