Kinda weird and sloppy. got a couple proper waves but others were very average. Flare didn't even feel good. Got some exercise I guess.
REMINDER: THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. has no obligation to monitor the Forums. However, THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. reserves the right to review any materials submitted to or posted on the Forums, and remove, delete, redact or otherwise modify such materials, in its sole discretion and for any reason whatsoever, at any time and from time to time, without notice or further obligation to you. THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. has no obligation to display or post any materials provided by you. THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. reserves the right to disclose, at any time and from time to time, any information or materials that we deem necessary or appropriate to satisfy any applicable law, regulation, contract obligation, legal or dispute process or government request. Click on the following hyperlinks to further read the applicable Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.
*** Official 2023 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter vanrysss
- Start date
That long period has been hitting here lately – giving the waves a lil extra push which has been fun. Been bouncing back n forth between a few spots on the Surf Rx NDR and the Stamps Quantum Quad. Fun enough, but super crowded.
Last edited:
cold, small and mushy on the EA Firecat. but nice to get back in the water after being out of town all weekend. could barely get my key out of the wetsuit loop my fingers were so numb, think the air was in the high 30s.
Cleanest sizable day of the winter. I'm out there. Yewwww. 
the feeshermen are reporting cold temptures:
Del Mar to Imperial Beach
Cold dirty water here much like everywhere else along the coast.
Hearing the temp is like 56-57 degrees.
Del Mar to Imperial Beach
Cold dirty water here much like everywhere else along the coast.
Hearing the temp is like 56-57 degrees.
Long waits for cold closeouts. Got a few views on the Warhawk and one make. Fun to get tossed around by some long interval juice. Randos kept following me back and forth which was a little annoying. These hype swells are always a bit of a letdown. Maybe later with less tide it will be better.
Met up with Oeste at a wave neither of us have surfed in a long time in my zone. I managed to fall on my ass getting in but no damage was sustained. It looked way more fun than it was with lots of speed bumps in the face. I did get one clean insider that let me do some nice swoops. It was more powerful than it looked with the long period. My shoulder feels VERY tight when cold but manageable. Thinking there is a doctor visit in my future.
Yeah, bigger and chunkier than it looked. Took out the 6’0 Mandala Oracle twin and definitely found its limit. Wide round nose does NOT exactly knife in on late drops. Once i stomped the drop (rather than angling in) on a couple, it went alright navigating the moguls and fitting into the wave. Gonna save it for smaller / softer / cleaner cruisier conditions.
If the entry/exit wasn’t so sketchy, would’ve gone in and swapped boars for the 6’7 stretched Twinsman in the car, would’ve been much better. As it was, when it was time to head in, I ended up bobbing around off the rock shelf for 20 min waiting patiently for a lull to attempt the exit. Finally got it just as MD was starting to make his way in, and i think he was surprised I was still there. I had a pretty seamless exit between waves so I was relieved.
I do like that spot but it’s been a couple years; forgot what a PITA getting in and out when there’s swell and and spray everywhere.
If the entry/exit wasn’t so sketchy, would’ve gone in and swapped boars for the 6’7 stretched Twinsman in the car, would’ve been much better. As it was, when it was time to head in, I ended up bobbing around off the rock shelf for 20 min waiting patiently for a lull to attempt the exit. Finally got it just as MD was starting to make his way in, and i think he was surprised I was still there. I had a pretty seamless exit between waves so I was relieved.
I do like that spot but it’s been a couple years; forgot what a PITA getting in and out when there’s swell and and spray everywhere.
Whats up with the seals lately? I had one mean muggin me constantly one day. Looking at me with some bad intentions. Got me all paranoid and kept looking over my shoulder during the session. Than the following day I pop up from the water after a ride and find that fker muggin me again with some crazy eyes. He didn't look away for like 10 minutes straight. He won the starring contest after it got so uncomfortable. Locals not playing around out there lately. Are they high on red algae again
Was going to go for a session at the Queen with the wifey, but there had to be at least 150 cars parked in the lots, on the road, under the freeway, and up the road. it was disgusting.
So we went to my favorite movie-star-spotting-B-grade-longboard wave. One guy out. We hit it and enjoyed for 30 minutes with the occasional HH set rolling through. Then a 4-pack comes out from the darkness and paddles out. I start doing local-guy eyeing and asserting myself in the line-up... just for it to go flat. Long lulls ensue. Still had some fun ones and would not let them back paddle me. Eventually it all worked out in the wash and they were cool and didn't hassle us.
We ended up surfing an hour and a half, saw some friends, and didn't get eaten by a shark. That's a win!
So we went to my favorite movie-star-spotting-B-grade-longboard wave. One guy out. We hit it and enjoyed for 30 minutes with the occasional HH set rolling through. Then a 4-pack comes out from the darkness and paddles out. I start doing local-guy eyeing and asserting myself in the line-up... just for it to go flat. Long lulls ensue. Still had some fun ones and would not let them back paddle me. Eventually it all worked out in the wash and they were cool and didn't hassle us.
We ended up surfing an hour and a half, saw some friends, and didn't get eaten by a shark. That's a win!
Seriously, be careful if they are. They go nuts and lose inhibition and attack people. There was one up here they were trying to humanely let die - nothing humane about it. Just euthanize them if they're going nuts and going to die. It's brutal watching them suffer.
session 2 was somewhat better. warhawk again. got a few hollow lefts that ran a ways but never let me out. good views though. as the tide drained the sets grew. serious grunt to the waves. saw a couple gems but never quite found myself in the right spot for one. got a good right but my buddy paddled right across my line and denied me the best turn section. my last wave, in the fading post-sunset light, was a scary double up closeout. i thought i was gonna die but i somehow landed the air drop and was able outrun the explosion and then belly it all the way in.
Had a sesh bout 10 days back at one of the main breaks in Scruz, right after the storms. Super strange was low tide 6-10 faces and 4 guys out (usually about 30 guys+)? I thought maybe was a shark of something. Felt like time warp to 1990 or something, wasn't epic but a hell of a lot better than the brown closeouts id been surfing mostly since the 1st. Surfed for 2 hours a lot of 6- 8 turn maybe 1-200 yard rides. hugging the line up was about 40 otters all in a row, never seen that before?
More recent surfed a local river mouth wave with some serous grunt,current and backwash, about an hour or so swell on the rise ducked about 10 waves and got blasted to the sand. After crossing the river nearly got washed into a treacherous looking shorebreak river combo. walking across the beach to the path I find a baby dolphin washed up, rush to rescue and hear a shout from the bluff to leave it. Requiring more info come to find apparently this guy is with marine mammal rescue and informs me that they only leave water when in danger and risk drowning if returned, plus help was coming, so I left him. then a surfer with kind of a hillbilly accent comes down the path and insists he is rescuing and then and tells the guy he has no authority and is going to knock his teeth out! having had enough already I kinda just kept bailing and pretty sure the guy and dolphin are ok, haha, but eventful morning to be sure!
More recent surfed a local river mouth wave with some serous grunt,current and backwash, about an hour or so swell on the rise ducked about 10 waves and got blasted to the sand. After crossing the river nearly got washed into a treacherous looking shorebreak river combo. walking across the beach to the path I find a baby dolphin washed up, rush to rescue and hear a shout from the bluff to leave it. Requiring more info come to find apparently this guy is with marine mammal rescue and informs me that they only leave water when in danger and risk drowning if returned, plus help was coming, so I left him. then a surfer with kind of a hillbilly accent comes down the path and insists he is rescuing and then and tells the guy he has no authority and is going to knock his teeth out! having had enough already I kinda just kept bailing and pretty sure the guy and dolphin are ok, haha, but eventful morning to be sure!
Surfed a stretch of beachbreak this afternoon that rarely has a decent bar, but now has a series of good peaks after all the storms. The rips and longshore current were absolutely brutal though!
I started on a left with one other guy, picked off a good one to start, then a battle with the current. Both of us ended up swept too far down and had to head to the beach and start over. At one point, I gave up and let myself drift to a right that I had been orginally eyeing before I paddled out anyway. It was kinda mushy, and I got caught inside a lot, but got some fun ones.
Then I decided to walk another half mile up the beach. There was another left that had a bigger crowd on it when I drove by the first time, so I decided to pass early on, but now just wanted to snag one or two to finish up. Luckily most of the crowd had left so it was much more manageable. Ended up staying out another 30 minutes and getting my best waves of the day, ending with a medium size one from the outside that turned into an absolute drainer of a barrel on the inside. Stoked!
I started on a left with one other guy, picked off a good one to start, then a battle with the current. Both of us ended up swept too far down and had to head to the beach and start over. At one point, I gave up and let myself drift to a right that I had been orginally eyeing before I paddled out anyway. It was kinda mushy, and I got caught inside a lot, but got some fun ones.
Then I decided to walk another half mile up the beach. There was another left that had a bigger crowd on it when I drove by the first time, so I decided to pass early on, but now just wanted to snag one or two to finish up. Luckily most of the crowd had left so it was much more manageable. Ended up staying out another 30 minutes and getting my best waves of the day, ending with a medium size one from the outside that turned into an absolute drainer of a barrel on the inside. Stoked!
My best day of the season today (and it's been a great season). Pulled up and saw about 15 people out. By the time I made it to the lineup there were only three and one guy just sat there the whole time, I never saw him paddle for a wave. Sunny, glassy, high tide keeping the rights open, overhead, wave after wave...what it's all about.
First legit big day of the season for me yesterday. Swell peaking 9@18 , tide dropping, and no one out. Got out with relative ease and spent 45 minutes getting in position only to grab a big-ass closeout. Reached the bottom, looked up and saw the lip towering right above me. Barely outran the damn thing before getting avalanched and dragged way back inside.
Tried again today but got denied twice by the relentless guillotine that was the inside bar. If I had brought the 7'2 or even 8'3, I probably could have duck dove well enough to make it out, but no va on the 8'6.
Mid-season report: Bit of a shocker after last season's endless bounty. The biggest days have been raw and punishing. Couple good inner bar days. Several good mid-size days. That's about it.
Tried again today but got denied twice by the relentless guillotine that was the inside bar. If I had brought the 7'2 or even 8'3, I probably could have duck dove well enough to make it out, but no va on the 8'6.
Mid-season report: Bit of a shocker after last season's endless bounty. The biggest days have been raw and punishing. Couple good inner bar days. Several good mid-size days. That's about it.
Last edited:
Caught this gem today 
Nice looking bitch, but I did not get to pet her dog 
Not a surfer, but if she were, we all know what kind of board
I wanted to show her my surf boner, but she was not into it. Pink board with purple leash and yellow fins. I think she'll come around.
Nice looking bitch, but I did not get to pet her dog Not a surfer, but if she were, we all know what kind of board
I wanted to show her my surf boner, but she was not into it. Pink board with purple leash and yellow fins. I think she'll come around.
Last edited:
Not a lot of good waves in the mix so I was happy to get two. Paddled out on the 6'1", then half way through the sesh it started pulsing and wish I had my stepup. I thought the swell was dying? Water is cold.