Yesterday I got meager swamped crumblers near PPP. Fouling again on Monday. You're welcome for not surfing.
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*** Official 2023 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter vanrysss
- Start date
Butt wiggles on the groveler with friends. Warm water. Love it.
frend got zapped by an amphibious rattle snake. Fucker.
frend got zapped by an amphibious rattle snake. Fucker.
Hmm, "near" PPP? I went down there at 6:15 yesterday. 35 guys out sitting in an area the size of a tennis court, fighting for chest high. Came back at 9:30, 4 guys out. Sigh, there was a big reason, it's called high tide. LOL, I was the last one to come in. Caught a handful of uber-mush, short rides. Of course the only HH set, broke out and over.
Later on took a bike ride to a beach party at Crowdiff. Waves were way more rideable than what I caught earlier, alas no boar. As one of the few beaches in town still with sand,. the word crowdiff has new meaning to me. What a zoo and total mayhem of people thinking they could just up and park at the beach at 1:00 on a summer Saturday.
Dear Orange County leaders: please clear the homeless encampment at trestles. It’s not sanitary, it’s not safe, and we don’t need to cede another public space to mentally unwell fentanyl addicts.
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Not exactly a surf session, but I took my almost 5 year old out for a few yesterday evening. It was sunny and looked fun on the cam. By the time we got everyone on the beach at Kelly's, the wind was on it, but there were still some really fun looking wedges coming through. The most playful I've seen it in a while.
Tide was pretty high and there was definitely some energy in the water, so the runway was short to get some waves in for the kiddo. But we got a few quick ones where I was trying to pump the brakes and drop anchor so that we weren't ripping the fin out of the box on the mini glider. It's been good to get her more comfortable in the water, seeing waves heading toward her, and splashing around. All in all, successful session even though I never stood up.
Tide was pretty high and there was definitely some energy in the water, so the runway was short to get some waves in for the kiddo. But we got a few quick ones where I was trying to pump the brakes and drop anchor so that we weren't ripping the fin out of the box on the mini glider. It's been good to get her more comfortable in the water, seeing waves heading toward her, and splashing around. All in all, successful session even though I never stood up.
Low expectations morning sesh on the rising tide. Pleasantly surprised to see it was hitting a locals' summer reef juuusssst right. Fun lil 3-4' peeling across the reef. Had the 7'0 Dankness mini mini glider and thought about switching to the smaller twin in the car after the first couple lefts at the main peak. But we had a good rotation going with 5 of us including a dad and teenage daughter and son with everyone else on stubby SBs. Soon 3-4 more paddled out so I decided to move over to the next reef over where there was just one older hipster on an orange minisim swallowtail. We split peaks for 30 min, no chat but I think we were both stocked to get lil waves without battling now 12-15 guys at the other peak.
Dankness with the Mason skate wheels setup (Rasta twins + twin trailers as quad rears) was super playful and really opens up what should normally be more a cruiser boar. Wedgy drop, around the section, cutback, race the wall, final carve before kicking out in front of the rocks. Good times, perfect summer sesh. After a while, 3 guys paddled out and blew up our spot. Took one more in and left with a smile.
Dankness with the Mason skate wheels setup (Rasta twins + twin trailers as quad rears) was super playful and really opens up what should normally be more a cruiser boar. Wedgy drop, around the section, cutback, race the wall, final carve before kicking out in front of the rocks. Good times, perfect summer sesh. After a while, 3 guys paddled out and blew up our spot. Took one more in and left with a smile.
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Couple early morning sessions on the log. Got my longest noseride yet at Swamis this morning. Cross-steps are getting more steady. Gotta remember not to stand too upright, keep my steps shorter, commit with the leading foot.
went down to the local beachbreak yesterday afternoon with the wife who wanted to do a beach walk and I brought the kenson 9' 2. water was warm and super clear., each wave was like a glass bottom boat ride, had to work hard to find little corners but got a ton of waves and rode switchfoot a bunch just because, the water was so clear and warm, saw plenty of stingrays and a shark (mako?) breach out the back. Young dude swam out and said Mr. B.R.? you were my teacher, whats up. Kid is now in his 20s, 1 year out of college, got a job, living with his parents to bank money and travel, just got back from the Maldives. Good job grom, make it happen.
About shoulder-high beach break this morning. Fast and hollow on shallow sand, but unfortunately closeouts for the most part. The water was the warmest yet. I wore a spring suit but could have been completely comfortable with just board shorts. One of those days when the water is so warm that you occasionally dunk your head between sets to help cool off.
Kind of a secret spot and almost half a mile from car to water so the crowd was lite. I brought a Pyzel Red Tiger, the most high-performance board I have, and I'm glad that I did because the drops were fast and steep over the shallow sand bottom. Didn't make it out of any barrels and had little opportunity for carving but it was fun nonetheless.
On a closeout tube, I jumped forward to get away from the board but in the washing machine like tumble a rail caught my shin just above the ankle. I kept surfing, though on the walk back I had a slite limp, and it's still sore and a bit swollen. I'm thinking this would have been nothing when I was younger, but now it might be too messed up to surf tomorrow when it's supposed to be bigger. I guess that I'll know in the morning. Getting old sucks!
Kind of a secret spot and almost half a mile from car to water so the crowd was lite. I brought a Pyzel Red Tiger, the most high-performance board I have, and I'm glad that I did because the drops were fast and steep over the shallow sand bottom. Didn't make it out of any barrels and had little opportunity for carving but it was fun nonetheless.
On a closeout tube, I jumped forward to get away from the board but in the washing machine like tumble a rail caught my shin just above the ankle. I kept surfing, though on the walk back I had a slite limp, and it's still sore and a bit swollen. I'm thinking this would have been nothing when I was younger, but now it might be too messed up to surf tomorrow when it's supposed to be bigger. I guess that I'll know in the morning. Getting old sucks!
Wardrobe malfunction while down at the local today. Fortunately didn’t see any students as I made it back to my truck trying to hide the frank n beans. Shred so hard I bust my trunks lidat. Was fun and really warm water, trust me I really felt the water.
Absolutely stellar conditions today. Pure glass, blue sky, and ultra clean. One of those days where every wave sparkles in the sunlight. These are the days you live for.
Too bad there were no waves bigger than 2'.
Too bad there were no waves bigger than 2'.
meager at the reefs this morning so made my semi-annual pilgrimage to the BB. It was pretty crappy here too but I was committed and only had a short window between meetings anyway. Three kooks out on the peak that looked best, the right coming off the pier. As luck would have it, all of them went in as I was paddling out on plasmasym so I had it to myself. I was shocked given that it’s summer and there were 15 people fighting over the KH closeouts on the other side of the pier. Made the most of it, got a bunch of little runners. Kinda fun. Boar had nice easy speed to race the sections, with a few snaps and floaters mixed in
Back in Wellington for two weeks for work and catching up with people. Very fortunate to score my old local twice today at good size. Fricken cold though; 36F as I paddled out this morning.
Pyz2 was so good.
Pyz2 was so good.
Another small morning at the summer reef. 15 people out at the main peak (including like 5 ladies/girls!). Ain’t nobody got time for that, so I settled for the lesser next peak down. Four guys out, but once again, three of them went in right as got outside. Me and a younger guy I see around traded crappy onshore KH-TH peaks for 30 min before 3 more guys joined and I peaced out.
Plasmic asym with SOC twins again: managed one decent FS and one nice BS snap but otherwise did what it could with the poor conditions.
Plasmic asym with SOC twins again: managed one decent FS and one nice BS snap but otherwise did what it could with the poor conditions.
Fun little waves this morning. Glassy knee to about belly button high outside sandbar behind the house. Surfed here to avoid all of the kids/parents clogging up the main spot. Rode the 5’3 Plasmic and had it to myself for about 45 minutes until a dad and his kid paddled out on longboards. They kept their distance so no issues. Then, about 30 minutes later, some asshat, that I’ve never seen before, paddles out right on top of us with 4 kids behind him. WTF there’s literally no one to the North or South for half a mile and there’s definitely no defined peak back there. The older I get, the more I hate people
Same spot, different day. This time the set waves were ever so slightly bigger, but less consistent than yesterday. Only about 5 or 6 of us from the neighborhood were out so vibes were perfect.
Rode the 6’2 Moonstone. It’s so good. Every time I ride it I feel like I unlock new levels on it that I didn’t think were possible on a bigger board in smaller waves.
Rode the 6’2 Moonstone. It’s so good. Every time I ride it I feel like I unlock new levels on it that I didn’t think were possible on a bigger board in smaller waves.
Mid day spot in LA County on the Flare. Always cool to get out into an unfamiliar scene. couple fun ones on the flare. Water was so warm. Felt great.
Day 3 (yesterday) more of the same. Less crowd and still some fun, small waves.
Overdid it though, stayed out too long in the heat, and when I got home was feeling light headed. Pounded a bunch of water and a couple liquid IVs to get right, but still had a slight headache and super tired the rest of the day. Went to bed at 8pm. Be careful out there East Coast bros. This heat is no joke! 99 air, probably 85 water
Overdid it though, stayed out too long in the heat, and when I got home was feeling light headed. Pounded a bunch of water and a couple liquid IVs to get right, but still had a slight headache and super tired the rest of the day. Went to bed at 8pm. Be careful out there East Coast bros. This heat is no joke! 99 air, probably 85 water
Essentially…I live in Atlantic Beach, which is only a couple miles away.