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*** Official 2023 Community Surf Journal ***

oeste858

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,146
17,742
113
San Diego, CA
Waited out the low tide and got in a fun lil late afternoon sesh at the reef. WH and only about 6-7 out. Waves were a bit sectiony and stop-start, even the ones that lined up through the inside. So I found myself a little off balance/rhythm switching between leaning way forward over the front of the asym Plasmic to try to connect the slow spots to the bowlier sections, and then back pushing hard off the tail for turns. Also tried a new-to-me Fascination /Gemini asym set and kept breaking the shorter rail/smaller fin free. Fell twice. Gonna stick with same size twins for Plasmic wide tail.
 
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Aruka

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,369
23,760
113
PNW
Dawn patrol again. In the water before the sun peeked over the mountains. Fat swell at kelpy reef #1. Rode the 6-10 Blackbird w/ DHD's. My buddy rode his 7-6 parmenter. We had an awesome first half of the session. Got like six good ones that walled up and chugged down the line. A couple more guys paddled out just in time for the closeout sets to start rolling through. Tide was pulling out. I should have just let myself get washed instead I wasted a bunch of energy for a marginal tweener.

I took a drive in the afternoon. Got the word that a righthand sand bar was setup a ways down south. Parking lot looked packed but by the time I got out there half the guys had come in. Just a few locals who know me and don't seem to mind letting me be part of the rotation after all these years. Bomdia w/ jjf/am's. It was really fun. Shifty double up growers. Not easy to read or surf but there were some good tubes to be had and I managed to get one of the best one's I've ever had at this spot. The board felt pretty good, like I was getting in early and I had plenty of speed to keep pace with the waves but I did have a couple moments where the nose wanted to catch if I wasn't careful navigating the steep troughs.

As the tide filled in there were some slower paced turn waves and I ended my session on a really fun one that hugged the bar and let me get to slashing.
 
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T

Tarab_ish

Legend (inyourownmind)
Nov 14, 2018
359
854
93
Woke AF said:
Fo

For some reason Vernor boards have always rubbed me the wrong way. I’ve never owned, ridden, or fondled one but they always look like a copy of something else.
they are popular:shrug:
Click to expand...
I have a "barracuda" model in EPS by him too that I also picked up for decently cheap off craigslist -- It's a pretty standard looking quad fish thing that does all the things you'd expect a board with that outline to do pretty well, it's definitely fast in tiny waves. But yeah, both have worked out as purchases but I'd be more inclined to pick up a stretch I think as a replacement for either. And it's not a huge deal but god I really don't like the logos on either, even the dimensions written near the stringer are in kinda garish large handwriting sharpie.
 
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T

Tarab_ish

Legend (inyourownmind)
Nov 14, 2018
359
854
93
Paddled out at the beachbreak on the dropping tide with my 6'8" bonzer that I like a lot, surf looked pretty amazing but immediately I realized I was undergunned and it just wasn't going to work with the offshores. Took an in betweener in and grabbed the 8' gun from my car. Between doing the paddle out and the lateral paddle to get to where I actually intended to make it out twice I burned a lot of the rest of the good tide window. I almost immediately catch a really good one -- almost stuck in the lip by the offshores, backside semi-airdrop, say "holy sh!t!" out loud as I come around the bottom and see the wall stretching, try to project down the line and just make it, under the lip (but not in the barrel), kickout.

...Then I paddle around aimlessly for 2 hours as the tide turning around makes it weirder and worse and the wind shifts and bumps it up, and basically don't catch anything else. The one was good though!
 
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B

Bob Dobbalina

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2016
4,523
4,946
113
Tarab_ish said:
Paddled out at the beachbreak on the dropping tide with my 6'8" bonzer that I like a lot, surf looked pretty amazing but immediately I realized I was undergunned and it just wasn't going to work with the offshores. Took an in betweener in and grabbed the 8' gun from my car. Between doing the paddle out and the lateral paddle to get to where I actually intended to make it out twice I burned a lot of the rest of the good tide window. I almost immediately catch a really good one -- almost stuck in the lip by the offshores, backside semi-airdrop, say "holy sh!t!" out loud as I come around the bottom and see the wall stretching, try to project down the line and just make it, under the lip (but not in the barrel), kickout.

...Then I paddle around aimlessly for 2 hours as the tide turning around makes it weirder and worse and the wind shifts and bumps it up, and basically don't catch anything else. The one was good though!
Click to expand...
Woke AF said:
Denied. 4@16 dropping tide. off-shore, nobody out.
Never made it past the inner bar, which was quite a ways beyond the inner bar.
Didn't try much. Sweep 2+ blocks south in 15 min On the 7'2 twinpin
Couldn't see past the chaos and the oncoming walls of white water and the outer bars were a significant ways past the dredging inner bar 50 yards ahead of me, so I took a nope, not today.
surflie says Fair to Good.
Click to expand...
I saw some pretty hilarious stuff out there yesterday.
 
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000

000

Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
26,360
7,780
113
looked still glassy so i went late to my secret spot. right when i arrived 2 gys paddled over. so i went to peak B. wasnt good at either peak. suddenly my tummy was rumbling. so i began to fart in my new womans wetsuit. felt lots of air escaping, then liquid... then solid. i tried to stop at take the suit off but i was blowing up from the rear. tons of sh!t was in y new womans wetsuit. luckily the water didnt seem too cold. after i took it off,, past my ass, sloshed tons of water but it still reeked. got no good waves, the 2 dorks never lefft my peak. so i split. washed out more on beach, more still in outdoor shower, lots of soap. at home used wetsuit shampoo for the first time ever. i believe everything is now clean. btw it wasnt glassy. u could say it was gassy and assy. and the surf.... was shitty
 
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sh3

sh3

Michael Peterson status
Dec 1, 2008
2,590
3,516
113
Midol Complete can help with those gas pains during 'that time,' 000.
 
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Aruka

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,369
23,760
113
PNW
Clean and fun at kelpy reef#1. Rarely ride a hp thruster here but it looked pretty bowly so I took out the smth maytrix. It worked pretty well. Got some fun turns. Its a good board.

My body is so sore. I need a break but the swell just keeps coming.
 
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billypilgrim

billypilgrim

Nep status
Apr 19, 2017
734
1,342
93
1676819454428.png

Scored some boxy microdank shorepound early this morning. The higher tide set up some peaky waves breaking into the rip. On average they were about waist to stomach high, but the occasional chest high drainer would roll through. I love surfing waves like these. You can more or less walk out, and the quick transitions make for a fun sized timing/positioning challenge, both on the drops and on the sections that allow for the tight shreds. Reminds me of a colder version of the Gulf.

Rode my 5'7" Mandala Quad Fish. His signature bottom works so good for tight waves like this. I feel like the rolled entry gets you in and helps place the rail where the energy is focused right off the get go. The board has a pretty flat subtle rocker, but the bottom contours help keep it loose and groovy, even in these speedy little waves.
 
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K

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
69,425
22,062
113
The Bar
Been plagued with a sore back and lingering cold - hated that I had to miss yesterday so said screw it to both maladies, super high tide, chest to shoulder, maybe a couple head high shorebreak wedge reforms. Lot of warble but also some absolute spitting nuggets out there. Little inconsistent at times but I got a couple dozen waves in the 90 minutes I was out. Got pinched on a couple barrels but had a few others that had a big wedgy section that you could set up nicely into a quick and semi-dirty barrel.

Only a couple others here and there but the fishermen on the beach were scoring - every time I looked, they reeled in another surfperch.

Tide started dropping fast, outer bar started breaking more consistently, and created a bit of a churn that, yeah, got one semi-decent one and called it. Was fun while it lasted!
 
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Woke AF

Woke AF

Tom Curren status
Jul 29, 2009
11,693
8,196
113
Southern Tip, Norcal
Soft chest high glassy wedges w/ dropping tide sunny skies and no wind.

the bars are scattered with holes all over the place. that with the strong side-shore current makes being in the right place tough. Drifted a total of 6 blocks while fighting the current/rip most of the 2.5 hrs

Rode the Fuse-E w/ new NVS Perrigine fins. Board is so fun makes me feel 15 again. Next, I think I'll go out and get me one of those TikTok chicks.
You know what I mean?
 
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sdsrfr

sdsrfr

Phil Edwards status
Jul 13, 2020
6,090
11,687
113
San Diego
yesterday was better than today.

water needs to get a little colder. even hearing some of the regulars complaining about hitting their limit.
 
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teeroi

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,145
9,395
113
eastside oahu
Should’ve surfed my NS regular but went to an old time fave for a change of scenery.

Saw a guy I know from my summer reg in the parking lot but he didn’t come out. Got 1 1/2 hr by myself. Waves were wonky. Looked a lot better from shore. Steep drop to burger to inside double up if I was lucky.

Lots of current pushing me deep and inside. Got mowed by a set for not being attentive to my positioning and no one else out.

Best wave was the last one, steep double up to square off the bottom to snap. Felt good to engage that much rail on a small wave.
 
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