*** Official 2023 Community Surf Journal ***

Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
3,041
4,551
113
Innzid
East coast beach break this morning. Waist to chest high and so pathetically weak that I could barely get a wiggle on.
good reminder of how good we have it at home.
Beaut day though and water was gin clear.
 

SixtyGrit

Gerry Lopez status
Oct 3, 2015
1,010
1,219
113
SD
This is overdue. Took a week off and stayed local to SD between Xmas and New years'. Surfed by balls off right up until friday.

Traded in my 6'6" Pyzel Tank to grab a 7'0" Stretch stepup in preparation for Big Friday.

Took my dadbod out on the 29th, and paddled out alongside Ben Gravy and crew. Saw 5+ broken boards walking down.

Tried to scratch into waves for 2 hours on that 7'0" stretch on the northern (actually middle) peak. Kept inching in more and more, which, if you know, you know is a no-no on a day like that at a spot like that.

Got cleaned up by the inevitable 20+ ft set.

Took my dadbod back in after the beating.

I don't want to ever be undergunned and out-of-shape again.

First time in my surfing life that I got fully skunked in a session, but glad it happened on that day.
 

One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,128
10,249
113
33.8N - 118.4W
Dawn Patrol this AM. Hard offshores. It was looking a little fat on the outside bar so I took my mid length. Not sure that was a good idea because I kept getting pushed up the face (too much nose area) and hung up in the lip. One of the advantages of a mid (for us old guys) is the ability to get in a little earlier, but with the offshores I was getting in late anyways and had to deal with too much plank for the air drop.

On one of the bigger ones (foot or two overhead) I was able to angle in and then there were these two kids paddling out right in my path. If they weren't there I could have made the wave easily but my only chance was to go high above them, but the lip pitched and I went into a crash tube right in front of them. I was afraid I'd beheaded them. Luckily everyone was unscathed. The girl even apologized to me for getting in my way. Wow. There's hope for humanity.
 

r32

Administrator
Staff member
Apr 1, 2005
17,936
9,460
113
Cambria
Smallish but stunning day. Offshore winds and ultra clean at select spots. Finally.
 

Retropete

Phil Edwards status
Jan 20, 2006
5,961
4,400
113
Sunny Coast Qld Australia
Dawn Patrol this AM. Hard offshores. It was looking a little fat on the outside bar so I took my mid length. Not sure that was a good idea because I kept getting pushed up the face (too much nose area) and hung up in the lip. One of the advantages of a mid (for us old guys) is the ability to get in a little earlier, but with the offshores I was getting in late anyways and had to deal with too much plank for the air drop.
This is why I like my Lost crowd killers so much. Pulled in nose and enough nose rocker to handle this scenario.
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,498
23,094
113
Tower 13
seriously. I was just thinking that I need to swap out my strings cause they're becoming sort of dead. Also plan to vary the thickness depending on board. Comp string for grovelers, heavier string for stepups. This consumes my thoughts almost all day every day.