***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,274
113
San Diego, CA
Maintenance sesh late morning, dropping tide, rising onshore wind. Pretty poor quality but thought I spied a couple CH corners on an inside shelf. Rode the Plasmic with SOC twins cause it was still in the car. Lot of waiting, paddling around, dodging closeouts. Couple cheeky rights that walled up enough to race for a bit, but not as many as I hoped. Lefts were basically closing out, running into the next section after the drop and a pump, as the tide sucked off the reef. (edit: LOL sucked off)
2mil was still wet so wore 3mil suit, and it’s just almost too warm. Gonna try to get through Dec with 2mil.
 
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Havoc

Phil Edwards status
May 23, 2016
7,680
12,215
113
in da hood next to paradise
hh closeouts and some smaller chest+ corners in the mix. got a couple memorable waves on the townsend and wtfo. the wtfo felt sketchy on the steeper ones but when the wind came up and it got crumbly the thing came alive. 2 paddle takeoffs. the hull entry just grabs the wave and pulls u in. opposite when it is steep tho hence the townsend. beat from all the duckdiving.
 

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
11,987
22,528
113
PNW
Smallish, like chest high and crossed up but clean at a south wind spot. Righthanders. Just me and a rando cali guy who wasnt a threat to much other than my peace of mind with his needy and needless chatter. Rode the Disco w/ nvs album quads. Felt perfect for the drained out little runners. A little more pivotal than the JC quads. Lots of quick snaps and cutties. Such a lively little blade this board is. Got a few cover ups and one decent tube.

The sunset was a beautiful collision of pink clouds above the placid, grey sea.
 

Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
3,041
4,551
113
Innzid
Boat/ski mission up the coast with a handful of mates. Always a fun little adventure and waves often ok to good.
Today, however, was a full score; found a perfect bank with a heavy and at times barreling right off it. Pyzalien was good, but Ghost would have been better, cause it was solid.

Got caught inside and was pinned in the impact zone for almost half an hour, unable to get out. Faaark, that was hard work.

Best beach break waves I've surfed in ages. Red eyes and long arms now :)
 

slipped_disc

Billy Hamilton status
Jun 27, 2019
1,456
2,187
113
Late entry for last week.

Sesh 1: slept in and got a quick session at the almost-always-working reef on my 6.0 NDR. the higher tide made for some warbly, mushy waves. minimal action.

Sesh 2: woke up well before my alarm at 4-something in the morning. Got a stretch on; ate breakfast; and drove into the darkness with a slew of boards. by 6 i was wide awake. music (animal collective) blasting. hand tapping the wheel. speeding. a one-man party. i love mornings like this.

the first spot was a bust. one good spitter amidst a sea of junk. spot two: clean and fun looking -- even if a bit walled. enough to go. suited up and was just about to paddle out when a group stopped me. shark sighting at the peak. back to the car. energy still high. if i didn't appear intoxicated in my previous state -- i surely did now. music blasting, speeding, tapping the wheel and singing along -- in my wetsuit zinc'd up.

with the clock ticking, i ended up back at the almost-always-working reef. surfed my 5.8 Tim Stamps Quantum Quad and had a blast. that thing blasts over flat sections, and still turns decently well. it loves laybacks.

now on the sidelines with a tweaked back.
 

Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
24,860
7,755
113
San Francisco, CA
Knee to waist high peelers on borrowed longboard during long lunch yesterday.

Took half session to get muscle memory back in sync with 9+ ft board to point where I could turn and stay on top of it and then rest of session to figure out how to stay in the "curl".

Lots of fun, but big part of that was lack of crowd and high wave count.
 

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
11,987
22,528
113
PNW
The South wind spot was fun again. Dark, cloudy skies. Windier than last time with very cold air. The waves looked over head high from the cliff so I took out the Warhawk which I've been itching to ride at this spot. I probably should have ridden something else like the Twinsman because it wasn't as big as I though but still the Stamps felt pretty good. It is pretty lively and loose for a 6-6 and the waves were good enough to get it moving. Got a couple cheeky tubes and some fun turns. Not quite as good as last time but still pretty fun and good to surf with a buddy. No epic sunset colors this time. Just a dimming of the meager winter light as the obscured orb was slowly extinguished.
 

b.r.

Phil Edwards status
Dec 19, 2003
5,922
3,033
113
Leucadia
www.youtube.com
Took my last antibiotics for my infection from the stingray puncture yesterday and was determined to surf today during my late window morning after 2 weeks of no surf. Drive home to let the dogs out to run around and my new quick 3/2 99 dollar friends and family discount wetsuit was sitting on my porch. I was dubious about the quality but the thing is stretchy and warm. Grabbed the LB because it is fLAt but the local grief is never totally flat. Drove down and walked out totally stingray paranoid and the wind ramped up a couple knots every 5 feet I walked out. Wind came up fast but I Got 5 little waves with a nice switch foot to the beach. The last 10 yards in had those winter holes then shallow then holes then shallow, I made it! Fuck U stingrays.
 

MathDebater

Michael Peterson status
Apr 13, 2016
2,584
6,123
113
SD
Late post. First surf in a few weeks on sunday due to a very prolonged ear infection. The swell wasn't really showing for the first stint that I watched but eventually a set rolled through and there was only two people out so I decided to go for it. I rode the VS mid twin because it's my crutch. As I rounded the corner on the walk down there was now many more people out, but I was committed at this point. I paddled out to the peak and waited for sets. Despite the lulls and the crowd I managed to get two within 20 minutes before getting hit with a thirty minute lull. I got another set and took it in. My turns were a pretty wobbly and I mostly just cruised but it felt great to be back in the water.
 

Havoc

Phil Edwards status
May 23, 2016
7,680
12,215
113
in da hood next to paradise
The South wind spot was fun again. Dark, cloudy skies. Windier than last time with very cold air. The waves looked over head high from the cliff so I took out the Warhawk which I've been itching to ride at this spot. I probably should have ridden something else like the Twinsman because it wasn't as big as I though but still the Stamps felt pretty good. It is pretty lively and loose for a 6-6 and the waves were good enough to get it moving. Got a couple cheeky tubes and some fun turns. Not quite as good as last time but still pretty fun and good to surf with a buddy. No epic sunset colors this time. Just a dimming of the meager winter light as the obscured orb was slowly extinguished.
u and that poetry chit faka