***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***

[billypilgrim]

Chitty cell phone shot at range of the boss threading a nice one on the lunch break.

Scored three sessions yesterday. Breakfast, lunch and dinner. All day offshores and different setups through the tide cycle. 3.6ft @ 12 seconds on the nearby buoy. Low tide in the morning was a little funky, but I couldn't say no. The larger sets would break the outer bar and reform. If the reform lined up with the outflowing rip current pulse, you could get a sick bowl section with a tapered shoulder that allowed for 3 to 4 nice turns. I was out in the dark and there were some big ass fish feeding in the surf. The broad wake made it look like redfish running south.

Everything came together for the lunchtime incoming tide push. My time was limited but I was able to get a couple of good left barrels and some walled up rights going on my backside.

My first two sessions I rode the CI twin pin with the new Rastas. Last session I hopped on the 7'0" C-Bucket and hunted some tubes off another rip bowl. Scored a few and got worked on a couple. Surfed until I couldn't see and went home with a smile.

What a day!

 

[silentbutdeadly]

Quick window on the 6'1" before the wind turned. Started off fun then go more walled. Medium JJF's and 80/20 3.75 rears worked pretty good. Gonna be a good setup for racers and then go truster when it's more organized. That is if I can get the quad rears out. Had to tap them in with a Malott. Should have sanded them.

Why are future fin bases so inconsistent?

 

[tedshred5]

I’ve had good success with rubbing some basecoat on Futures fin bases before putting them in

 

[Aruka]

friend snapped some cell pics of me from like a mile away. kind of impressive tbh. one of the newer samsung's i think.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

Looks fun

 

[tedshred5]

man if only we had lineups that empty here

 

[silentbutdeadly]

man if only we had lineups that empty here

It's funny when I first read his post I saw your post first thinking it was you and I was like where the f is that?

 

[gbg]

Yesterday in OC

 

[gbg]

Last day of surf this trip. Been gone 3 weeks. Weather has been good. Water still 60s. Pussy wet. Wine flowing. Coming home to a 5 day weekend and a short week and 10 days off over Thanksgiving.

 

[MathDebater]

Last day of surf this trip. Been gone 3 weeks. Weather has been good. Water still 60s. Pussy wet. Wine flowing. Coming home to a 5 day weekend and a short week and 10 days off over Thanksgiving.

I think I’m doing this life thing wrong

 

[sdsrfr]

Pussy wet.

always thought you were a dude. my bad.

 

[gbg]

I think I’m doing this life thing wrong

Git you a govt job.

 

[Aruka]

small n glassy at the reef this morning. very cold. frost on my windshield n all that. the waves were fun though. kind of short interval and not really connecting through the inside section but still some good outside bowls to be had. i rode the JT Coffin and it felt like a good call for making the most of the smaller conditions. i ran an am techflex quad set after feeling a little under finned on this board last time. these felt like a little too much fin, i think. not terrible, just a tad stiff off the bottom. will try piggyback quads next.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

kind of a let down this morning. Soft without too much push. focused on the wrong part of the peak but still got a few. Water didn't drop much thankfully but the air felt freezing.

Flare felt great.

 

[SD_Dan]

kind of a let down this morning. Soft without too much push. focused on the wrong part of the peak but still got a few. Water didn't drop much thankfully but the air felt freezing.

Flare felt great.

Sounds similar to my session. Bobbed around waiting for soft peaks with too much tide. Nice to paddle around though.

 

[Maz]

Just back from two weeks on Bali with the missus. So so good to be among happy, cheeky, courteous, fun Indonesians again. And to smoke kretek ciggies, drink strong coffee and eat banana honey pancakes.

No groundbreaking stuff surfwise, but a few solid OH days, and I did surf twice a day so no complaints. 6'10 DS and 6'3 Pyzalien2.

Acceptable view from where we stayed:

 

[silentbutdeadly]

everything except for the cigs sounds amazing

 

[Maz]

Nothing like a clove cig when in Indo. Not a smoker at home.

 

[Havoc]

super fun this morning but damn was it cold. water was 57 and i didn't bring any booties. luckily had a leaky 4/3 and a hood and felt OK. got 20+ waves in 2 hrs. best one was a chest high nugget left that allowed for a bs roundy to high foam rebound. one of the better ones i've done in a while. wtfo ftw! boar can do no wrong.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

Happy Boar!