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***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***

T

toowalled

Nep status
Jul 3, 2014
842
946
93
Perfectly timed my afternoon for low tide closeouts:socrazy: managed three lame down the line waves and called.Had one of those sick seals swimming around me was sketching me out getting too close For comfort.water has warmed back up nicely ,I think thats about as hot at the beach as i can remember for ventura
 
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Reactions: need 4 speed and estreet
K

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
68,943
21,319
113
The Bar
Chest to shoulder high beachbreak peaks. A bit on the small side but figured it was a good day to use that new 6'8" Barbera and get it dialed in. Man, I like that board. Paddles smooth, duckdives decently, and surfs like absolute butter. There was a subtle outbound current with the quickly rising tide so it was easy to get pulled out too far but mid-tide was good, lot of fun waves coming in. Had it to myself and a bunch of dive-bombing pelicans for a while and then a few other people paddled out; plenty of room for everyone to have their own peak. Towards high tide, the waves started backing off and not really breaking but after a bit of patience, got a decent one in. Good maintenance surf with fall around the corner.
 
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Reactions: nolibos, manbearpig and MathDebater
T

toowalled

Nep status
Jul 3, 2014
842
946
93
Got a few decent sized but bumpy ones yesterday (y)wished i was a little bit older so i could have enjoyed more of these swells without the hype,Too many people out in surf that is well beyond their abilities. Was amusing seeing all the guys driving around with nose riders checking the surf:ROFLMAO:
 
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Reactions: need 4 speed and PRCD
K

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
68,943
21,319
113
The Bar
Similar sized waves as yesterday but went to different but slightly more crowded section. So much damn fun, first two waves were already better than anything I caught yesterday. Burgery on the outside and started standing up on inside as tide came in. Love that 6'8", didn't realize how much of a dog that other 6'6" is. Lot of good turns and hacks on that roundpin, even though it was pretty soft. Good to see nolibos and the rest out there too.

Highlight by far was a lined up left, solid backside hack, came down to bottom turn right as wave started to throw and zipper, tucked right into pocket, wave sucked me back like a grape into it, and then spat me right out into oncoming whitewash which I bounced off of into the flats. Stocked as hell on that.

My surfing had felt so stagnant/horrible for a while and using this new board is refreshing. Absolute comedy that the step-up is better in small waves than my shortboard is. Without a doubt, that 6'8" is the new daily driver in anything from 1-6'+. :jamon:
 
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Reactions: nolibos, Aruka, need 4 speed and 1 other person
slipped_disc

slipped_disc

Billy Hamilton status
Jun 27, 2019
1,583
2,387
113
Drove north for an afterwork Friday session. I was blasting Beowulf's cover of Cruisin' on the drive over, hoping to carry some of that energy into the water. Ended up being more of a slow jam kind of night. Intermittent sets and plenty of other people with the same idea, so opportunities to thrash around were limited.

I've been back on the OTR PU 5'9" Rocket Wide for the past week or so, and have been loving it. My other groveler (EPS) is just too damn cork-y to feel right. Maybe I need less foam??
 
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