Got a lunch surf in blown out 2-3 junk today. It was just me and my friends so it was hard to complain even if conditions were ragged. Somehow the guy who brought the wavestorm threaded a barrel.
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***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter Kento
- Start date
foggy, glassy, waist high creek mouth waves. nothing too special wave-wise but the sand bar seems decent, at least. 'twas my first surf in ages due to my knee, work and quite a long stretch of rubbish waves. rode the symphony which felt like a good choice. had the bodyboard and fins waiting on the beach but i didn't end up switching for them. a friend showed up about twenty minutes after I paddled out and we surfed for probably another hour. the water felt very cold which makes sense since we've had a couple weeks of steady north winds. looks like a calm stretch this week but i'm swamped with work so we'll see whether i can get free for some more groveling or not.
Drove north again this morning. Sort of a new spot to me. Or at least a new stretch of sand and rocks. It was just me and the elephant seals. Rode a mostly-new Route One X3. It's fresh enough that the first footwells are only now developing. Looking forward to returning to this stretch again.
I haven't surfed for a while, but I just finished a session of vigorous flossing. Haven't been at it for quite some time so it felt great! Had major build up between my lower front teeth. Some fairly large yellow and black pieces got hacked out, but I will have to continue after the bleeding stops.
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I got humbled at Ulu. Caught some of the smaller waves but I couldn't make it happen on the big boys. A mental block, fear I guess, wasn't letting me get deep enough. Or be in the right position, either.
I'm riding an 8'6. I'm considering getting an even more massive board. Something that would let me paddle into these bombs and gain some confidence, without having to get too deep.
On the plus side, I had one of the most violent hold downs of my life. Always some fun in that.
I'm riding an 8'6. I'm considering getting an even more massive board. Something that would let me paddle into these bombs and gain some confidence, without having to get too deep.
On the plus side, I had one of the most violent hold downs of my life. Always some fun in that.
fun at the rivermouth,,, lots of current also
hadn't surfed in 3 days and I was desperate. 4 ft at 7 and looked like crap. Opted for some foam and ended up getting a few decent waves on the mitsimmons. Damn that board is good. All you hipster fvcks should take note and look into one.
water finally dipped.
water finally dipped.
Paunch seems to be doing the best on the Eastern Pacific...
Brand new shortie suit, yay.
Laundered towel, downy fresh, yay.
2.56 @ 5.9 seconds, sigh
Lunch break.
At least the direction allowed for some rides. Surprisingly punchy at the take off for thigh high. The punch did not last long.
Had to share the lineup with one dude, chick way out there on longboar, and fat boogie guy. At one point they surrounded me. Not used to such aggression at my crap zone, LOL. Between the three of them, I saw one ride attempted. Not a problem.
Sand keeps on building up, like it thinks it has a chance of surviving the first swell. Doubt it.
Went down to C Bad with the fam. My oldest ditched his board as I went by and it whacked me in the shin. Truly awful surf but glassy. It was Influencer Hour at sunset though if you get my drift, @Senor Sopa
low expectations this morning. Started off groveling inconsistent waves on the mitsimmons. Mitsven paddled out and brought me some waves. Scored tons of small waves that were standing up on the bar nicely. Felt so good to get some good turns in front of my shaper on his board. Usual surfboard geek talk as well. My kind of morning.
FUN
FUN
Back at the usual. Waist to chest, super glassy and clean, inconsistent. Pick and choose corners in the south lines, couple hollow section cover ups. 6-2 four channel twinzer. Water is warming, probably 65-67 by the time I got out
hangin in there.
Finally back in the water after a month of random injuries, lotsa work, and travel. Not much out there late morning, but dusted off the 6'6 PlasmEgg for a quick comeback surf. two guys out a usually crowded spot with a tight takeoff zone that I rarely surf anymore. Pretty slow but I got a couple wiggles to shake the rust off. The two went in after the first small "set"... should've given me a clue about the lulls. Got a couple fun lil wedge rights longer than expected. Then mostly sat and waited for next 15 as rising tide snuffed out what little there was. Water was warm and super clear. Lotsa marine life: seals were playing around chasing fish and breaching n chit.
Nice to be back in the water, bros!
Nice to be back in the water, bros!
Yeah, that’s pretty much a dream sesh, imo.
Went down to the lot, asked a guy how the water was, "I'm glad I wore my suit". Ok, good thing I brought the shorty. Walk down to Boulders. There were two grandma types collecting rocks, the beach is real narrow, so I can see what they've scored. I comment on some of the rocks and which ones are harder to find. One lady says she makes mosaics. I immediately look down, and found a handful of the types they are looking for. LOL, they were impressed with my rock skills.
Waves were better than the day before, much better period, but still a meager thigh high. Caught plenty, it was fun, got bored pretty quick, and bailed.
Funny chit - Dude on lot said to suit up, so I did. Talking to the ladies, I pulled the suit up and zipped. Hey wait, wtf? My suit is on inside out. I had to ask the lady to unzip it, she struggle. For some unknown reason, I wore my swim suit under the wettie. This is a less than one time a year occurence. So yep, ripped that sucker off, flipped it, and paddled out.
It was sweaty out there.
Waves were better than the day before, much better period, but still a meager thigh high. Caught plenty, it was fun, got bored pretty quick, and bailed.
Funny chit - Dude on lot said to suit up, so I did. Talking to the ladies, I pulled the suit up and zipped. Hey wait, wtf? My suit is on inside out. I had to ask the lady to unzip it, she struggle. For some unknown reason, I wore my swim suit under the wettie. This is a less than one time a year occurence. So yep, ripped that sucker off, flipped it, and paddled out.
It was sweaty out there.
Beyond packed went home salty AF Cant wait till tues
Slightly bigger, more consistent, and fewer open sections 
Got a couple, water was warm beach was nice
20w sighting
Got a couple, water was warm beach was nice
20w sighting