***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***

need 4 speed

Phil Edwards status
Nov 1, 2003
6,676
3,579
113
SoCal
Pretty solid 3-6' Playa Grande with light offshores. Crowded but stretched out so enough to go around. Arrived a little before high tide and surfed through most of the drop. Super fun when you could connect with waves that pushed through the tide. Caught a bunch one clean in and out barrel that got a shaka from the shoulder paddler.
 
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silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,499
23,099
113
Tower 13
After a week on the n shore we are headed to the east side for a few days. Surf has been really fun for this time of year, have been dawn patrolling every day since last Saturday for a surf or family adventure every other day (this let’s the kids sleep in every other day). Wife and I had lunch with PPK yesterday and of course nobody at the restaurant would take my card and let us pay. Surf and weather have been dakine and great visibility for snorkeling with the turtles. Yesterday evening was the first big rain since we got here. View attachment 135371View attachment 135372View attachment 135373
pretty damn jealous BR. Stocked for ya
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
68,691
20,903
113
The Bar
Been suffering with bad right shoulder for a while - between that and trash conditions, surf time cut way short. But PT has been good the last few weeks. Today was perfect day to kind of back in the swing of things. Thigh to chest high for most part, some runner rights and left wedges and amazingly, no one out anywhere in my vicinity. Well, I did see a shark(?) breach high about 400 yards further out.

Super rusty but felt good to get in water again. Some lulls and shiftiness and I also had a lot of rust to work out (dug rails on cutbacks, board getting hung up on OTLs and poor timing on some takeoffs) but shoulder felt good, no pain, and I got a nice flurry of waves towards the end where I wasn't completely incompetent. But damn, not surfing in a while, glad it's not the heart of fall - definitely need to get paddling strength/endurance back again.
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,499
23,099
113
Tower 13
waves were drunk, water 61, weeeee!

Dank farts groveler in 2-3ft serf. Ribs hurt but actually not as bad and was able to get through a normal sesh. Should be pretty much good to go when I get back from Catalina next weekend.

Already some serious eye candy on the beach
 

j_mac

Legend (inyourownmind)
Aug 16, 2020
418
1,567
93
Busy summer with oceanographic field experiments, some were delayed because of COVID and are happening now. Getting my surfs inbetween and mostly are less than ideal local wind swell waves....I have dusted off the small wave quiver. I haven't surfed these boards in over a year.

5' 4" Plasmic - super fun, forgot about the squirt, fat skateboardy feel to the board.....however any pitch to the waves and I have tendency to go over the nose.
6' 0" Social - quad egg, its a cheater board at 40L, though initially fun because of its of wave catching, halfway through the session I am over the board
5' 10" bloated Disorder - this has become one of the go-to boards in the weaker waves. I didn't like this board initially in the winter waves and had it up on craigslist. Minimal bites on selling it, so I wanted to surf it more if I was going to drop the price. This was fortutious. Now that I have played with a few Disorders, I installed much bigger fins owing to the board width and now it is alive. This board catches and paddles very well, and more go and performance on the wave. I am so glad it didn't sell. I am smiling everytime I am on this one.
6' 10" Huntsman - its a cool board with great rails. Its have that cool CC vibe to when you grab it. Fun to surf a singlefin again, but like the Social halfway through the session itching for something else.
8' 0" Twinsman Twinzer - This have become my other go-to board. it is bascally a stretched Twinsman - it has a narrowish nose and tail, though plenty of volume (~55L) with the length, let's get into waves early, handles steeper drops, but for such a long board it pivots and works the small waves. I have gotten a number of comments asking about the board as folks have seen me throw it around with ease. its not me, its the board.
 

Senor Sopa

Billy Hamilton status
Mar 11, 2015
1,366
2,176
113
Ponto
waves were drunk, water 61, weeeee!

Already some serious eye candy on the beach
I really appreciate the newer bikini styles of what we used to call "v bottoms". Saw more talent yesterday than all year.

Waves? Super small, but fun enough for moi. Same spot, Boulders. Hah, what a difference being glassy makes.

SBD mentioned water temps. I had seen on the charts how the temp had dropped overnight to brr status. As I'm putting on the fullsuit, I'm thinking, "This spot aint worth putting on the rubber", but I did anyways. Water was cold, but in my 90 minutes, I swear it rose 4-5 degrees.

Big moves of the day were floaters, not hits or banks, just basic floaters. I would have to compare them to doing a curb grind on a skateboar. Just throw it up there, and ride it out.

One dad and older teen son were out. Son was terrible, dad could paddle and ride. I called dad out after one, "Hey, nice one". He was stocked. He tried to compliment me, I shut him down and said "I surf here all the time" and laughed. That said, I really appreciated how they didn't try to 000 me. This place is weird, and 20 yards either way can make our break your session. Nice!, they never moved the 20 yards over.

I suspect today will be very similar to yesterday, see youse all at noon.

Take what you can get chit: One of the best waves was after two jetskies rushed by.
 
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b.r.

Phil Edwards status
Dec 19, 2003
5,922
3,034
113
Leucadia
www.youtube.com
Headed over to the east side of the garden isle yesterday after my last surf of the trip In Hanalei. Ended up getting the longest tube ride of my life yesterday. 1 mile on an inner tube through a sugar cane plantation irrigation tunnel. Super fun inner tube tourist adventure in the hills. My whole family was laughing and yelling the whole time. 1 hour tubing with 4 or 5 long tunnels. Highly recommended for families coming out here. Be home tomorrow recharged and ready for a new school year.
 

Senor Sopa

Billy Hamilton status
Mar 11, 2015
1,366
2,176
113
Ponto
Sadly, no long tubes to report. And water was cold.
Same spot, somehow even smaller @ thigh high. Somehow, offshore at noon. I put the short rubber on and walked down to my spot. Ugh, 30 softtops lined up, ready for kids. Kept walking to the next "spot". Watched the "waves" for 20 minutes trying to motivate. It was so small and shapeless. Finally, I shamed myself and a decision was made, "I already put the damn wetttie on, You have to paddle out".

1st wave, underestimated it. Nice, a challenge! Barely rode it well enough to be able to kick out.
2nd wave, total double meh
3rd wave, heat winner, rode to beach and went in

Sometimes you just know that you will never get close to another wave the same quality, pack it in!

For DocFlav - Monday had no talent, unless you count ladies with snake skin legs.

Oeste'esque 1 hour total door to door.
 

Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
3,041
4,551
113
Innzid
Small swell and E winds means hit the open coast beachies. Work, tide, etc meant we had a late afternoon start, but the light was nice.

Always hard to see what you're gonna get jumping off a boat into beach break waves, and initial impressions were sh!t, as the outside bars would cap and then fizzle. Paddled way inside and found shoulder high righthand wedges, most of them closing out. Get a good one, though, and you'd remember: hollow, glassy, heavy.

Got two barrels and a nice haul of fast, short waves. More often than not ended up pinned to the bottom, even after riding out in front of the closeout. Punchy as hell!

Beers on the ride back, and got to the boat ramp after dark. Excellent adventure.

 

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
11,990
22,531
113
PNW
Been trying not to surf and let the knee rest. Waves have been pretty marginal anyways. I finally broke down yesterday and went for a bodyboard session in some punchy little peaks up North. It felt so good to get wet and the waves were actually pretty fun. I still feel like kind of a kook on the bodyboard but I always have fun. The stakes are so low, which is nice. My kicking muscles are rubbish and I'm pretty sore today after only an hour session in chest high waves. Got a sick little left tube to end the session which had me buzzing the rest of the day.