***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***

[PRCD]

I scored this morning too but YOU NEEDED TO BE IN THE RIGHT PLACE AT THE RIGHT TIME. My usual was walled. I got on another spot at low tide before the wind came up. I sat next to a friendly duuu from Hawai'i who remarked on the total lack of etiquette in California. Mofos who usually surf the spot were back-paddling in the entire lineup. One duu on a boar the size of a canoe would back paddle everyone and even burn you if he was out of position (you know who you are, kook!). Come on, guys, we need to go back to fist fighting if we're not going to have manners. Plenty of us are game.

Nevertheless, I got a bunch of rights. The Hawaiian complemented me on one of my turns so maybe they are actually starting to look better. I'm definitely bringing the wraps all the way around better. It's weird that even when I have more time on these bigger walls, I don't want to ruin the ride so I don't commit as much as I should to my first and second turns.

SHould be better tomorrow.

 

[r32]

Hitting good here. Really calm oceans and clean lines. Biggest spot is about 10-12' and cranking on the real sets but that reef is the biggest south swell magnet around. Other spots between 3-6' and solid. Pretty epic conditions with crazy cloud cover. Does not feel like mid summer.

Guy in the parking lot said there were multiple lightning strikes in Monterey. Crazy day.

 

[Lowqi2]

4 days in a row at 3 different spots . Got acquainted with my 2 new twinzers. What a beautiful day today, to use an old 80’s word to describe the waves - it is “cranking” brah.

looking forward to the peak of the swell tomorrow

 

[Kento]

Generally I believe these people are not swabbing correctly.

Just my 2 cents.

I love it when everyone in the house has COVID, except one person, who despite being sick as a dog tests negative through the whole thing.

Seen this happen several times.

Most recently it was my mom.

Dad had COVID, mom had "just a sinus infection" lack of appetite, barely left the bed for 2 days. I'm literally LOL'ing.

I had to instruct my dad on proper technique, of course she was pissed when he did it proper, and of course she tested positive.

Yep I tested negative throughout and was the index case in the family. Had residual sinus/lung butter for weeks.

That down time combined with way too much paddling in a 5/4 after resulted in an asymmetrical right shoulder; full range of motion but paddling causes pain - doing PT for it. Golf doesn't hurt it, though. Go figure. Haven't been able to surf in many weeks but been running a lot so actually not in horrible shape - training for marathon next month. Coming down to SoCal next week. AFTER this swell - go figure. Well, maybe everyone will be surfed out and it will be empty.

 

[kidfury]

Wave after wave after wave, session after session after session. Smiles all around. Good vibes and no bs

 

[doc_flavonoid]

I scored this morning too but YOU NEEDED TO BE IN THE RIGHT PLACE AT THE RIGHT TIME. My usual was walled. I got on another spot at low tide before the wind came up. I sat next to a friendly duuu from Hawai'i who remarked on the total lack of etiquette in California. Mofos who usually surf the spot were back-paddling in the entire lineup. One duu on a boar the size of a canoe would back paddle everyone and even burn you if he was out of position (you know who you are, kook!). Come on, guys, we need to go back to fist fighting if we're not going to have manners. Plenty of us are game.

so you blow in to a spot and the locals paddle around you and eat. sounds like you picked up some scraps so whats ur beef?

you couldve tried ur luck at my local today. tread lightly and ur cool and may get few. bring that attitude and youll be heckled to beach.

ever surf the westside in the 80's? and cowells doesnt count. didnt think so.

only lack of etiquette in california is not knowing ur place with every wannabe bro paddling out whereever suits them and thinking they get in line like its disneyland, hey hawai'i guy, were they passing out numbers today at bowls? now serving number 27...?

fuckme runnin

 

[Aruka]

Mofos who usually surf the spot

Locals. They're called Locals.

 

[PRCD]

Cantankerous South Bay transplant advises on how not to be instaloc.

I get it, man, as a transplant you've gotta prove you're more local than everyone else up there.

Locals. They're called Locals.

Seems there are big 'L' and small 'l' locals and you'd better know who the eff you is.

 

[casa_mugrienta]

so you blow in to a spot and the locals paddle around you and eat. sounds like you picked up some scraps so whats ur beef?

you couldve tried ur luck at my local today. tread lightly and ur cool and may get few. bring that attitude and youll be heckled to beach.

ever surf the westside in the 80's? and cowells doesnt count. didnt think so.

only lack of etiquette in california is not knowing ur place with every wannabe bro paddling out whereever suits them and thinking they get in line like its disneyland, hey hawai'i guy, were they passing out numbers today at bowls? now serving number 27...?

fuckme runnin

This is rich, coming from a Lunada Bay guy who blew in up north.

And etiquette in CA sucks because bad behavior rarely gets called out and insta-locing is permitted.

This is why lineups many places outside the USA tend to run so much more effectively.

 

[casa_mugrienta]

Locals. They're called Locals.

What's it called when locals pummel locals because in a county with 3.325 million people it's impossible to know who the locals are, especially with all the transplants trying to become locals, with some locals allowing it, and others not allowing it?

 

[teeroi]

hey hawai'i guy, were they passing out numbers today at bowls? now serving number 27...?

No, never. There’s a pecking order and it can be confusing at times but it’ll sort itself out for you at any infraction.

Just last week 5 randoms paddled out to Big Bowl got in the way of Uncle Brian and were told to beat it. They paddled over to Middles, where we could see them getting sounded and they never had a chance.

I’d say something about the Hawaii visitor giving out unsolicited compliments but I’m trying to lessen the toxicity of my posts.

 

[casa_mugrienta]

I’d say something about the Hawaii visitor giving out unsolicited compliments but I’m trying to lessen the toxicity of my posts.

Dude, they're just being friendly!

 

[doc_flavonoid]

This is rich, coming from a Lunada Bay guy who blew in up north.

And etiquette in CA sucks because bad behavior rarely gets called out and insta-locing is permitted.

This is why lineups many places outside the USA tend to run so much more effectively.

might be rich but not wrong.

and fwiw, i dont claim status. getting waves is easy when you put in the time and know your place in the ecosystem.

simple lessons. easy to learn as grom. lost on the adult learner keyboard warrior crew

 

[Senor Sopa]

Well, let's get back on track.

Everybody can thank me for all the wave over last 4 days. Out of town. Went to the land of Nard for my sons wedding. Hanging out at the resort just up the way from B5fins beach. Argh, the wave looked good, lol, way better than any pure beaches in my city.

On the way up, we stopped at Clowny Line for lunch. All I can say, is "The Kook is Strong" there. This duu is great example.


It took this guy 10 minutes to remove his wetsuit. The pic don't show it, but he had three of the doors wide open before. The large storage container came out, On goes the poncho, but he shedded the wettie onto the ground. Next he put the wettie into the box, and whipped out the 5 gallon water jug. Rinse, toss wettie into back, without a care. I thought it strange how there was so much ritual, only to end with a carefree toss into the back. Duu then rinses hisself off, ok, that's normal. Then, he very thoroughly washes off the softop. After all this, jumps in truck, no shirt, and heads back to Venture area. I commented to my wife that I've been doing it wrong all these years. Best/worst part, the very next guy that was done surging, had pretty much the same setup. I left saddened and confused.


Ok, surf report. Driving back home, through the 20 miles of Malibu, I saw peeps at spots that I didn't even know were spots.

Back home, I have to check PPP, OMG, it's huge and Crack's looks like a left point. Key work "looks". Unpack at home, decompress for a bit, Have to go out, it's pumping. Head on down to the Reef, uggh, what a mess. Back up to north end of town. Paddle out at the spot with stairs, almost all the way out, just got crushed by a set. Paddle north to the next set of stairs, nobody there, where, sometimes, the reef there can handle larger waves. It wasn't. I waited, and waited, and waited to catch one on a boil. Cool, got in early enough to try some s-turns. First wave, Oops, back foot almost slipped of the tail. I says to myself, "I waited too long, I aint falling", somehow manage to recover in time to get a perfect speed generating turn. Raced through a few sections and kicked out before involving myself in the ugly zone. Sigh, no more came in. Dejected, I paddled back south to the original paddle out spot, where there were 50 peeps. Waited another 30 minutes or so, nobody was catching anything. Ugh, just turned around and paddled in in disgust. Made it to shore with no waves. Of course that's when the set hit. It looked meh, lumpy, and not too rideable. This is what one gets for waiting until the afternoon to surf. In hindsight, should've just gone out at the first spot.

Final Score: 3 hours of time, two spots, one wave

 

[Swallow Tail]

No, never. There’s a pecking order and it can be confusing at times but it’ll sort itself out for you at any infraction.

Just last week 5 randoms paddled out to Big Bowl got in the way of Uncle Brian and were told to beat it. They paddled over to Middles, where we could see them getting sounded and they never had a chance.

I’d say something about the Hawaii visitor giving out unsolicited compliments but I’m trying to lessen the toxicity of my posts.

Thankfully there are pockets of spots around here that are still like that. well behaved visitors can get waves n the ones w no manners don’t.

observation: when a lineup passes the “saturation point“ there are so many kooks order starts to become impossible, n even the mellow locals/regulars with typically perfect manners can start to “eat their own” and it’s just a mess. That happens enough at a spot it becomes tough to stop that boulder frm rolling down hill. It’s a bummer.

 

[toowalled]

Well, let's get back on track.

Everybody can thank me for all the wave over last 4 days. Out of town. Went to the land of Nard for my sons wedding. Hanging out at the resort just up the way from B5fins beach. Argh, the wave looked good, lol, way better than any pure beaches in my city.

On the way up, we stopped at Clowny Line for lunch. All I can say, is "The Kook is Strong" there. This duu is great example.
View attachment 134053

It took this guy 10 minutes to remove his wetsuit. The pic don't show it, but he had three of the doors wide open before. The large storage container came out, On goes the poncho, but he shedded the wettie onto the ground. Next he put the wettie into the box, and whipped out the 5 gallon water jug. Rinse, toss wettie into back, without a care. I thought it strange how there was so much ritual, only to end with a carefree toss into the back. Duu then rinses hisself off, ok, that's normal. Then, he very thoroughly washes off the softop. After all this, jumps in truck, no shirt, and heads back to Venture area. I commented to my wife that I've been doing it wrong all these years. Best/worst part, the very next guy that was done surging, had pretty much the same setup. I left saddened and confused.


Ok, surf report. Driving back home, through the 20 miles of Malibu, I saw peeps at spots that I didn't even know were spots.

Back home, I have to check PPP, OMG, it's huge and Crack's looks like a left point. Key work "looks". Unpack at home, decompress for a bit, Have to go out, it's pumping. Head on down to the Reef, uggh, what a mess. Back up to north end of town. Paddle out at the spot with stairs, almost all the way out, just got crushed by a set. Paddle north to the next set of stairs, nobody there, where, sometimes, the reef there can handle larger waves. It wasn't. I waited, and waited, and waited to catch one on a boil. Cool, got in early enough to try some s-turns. First wave, Oops, back foot almost slipped of the tail. I says to myself, "I waited too long, I aint falling", somehow manage to recover in time to get a perfect speed generating turn. Raced through a few sections and kicked out before involving myself in the ugly zone. Sigh, no more came in. Dejected, I paddled back south to the original paddle out spot, where there were 50 peeps. Waited another 30 minutes or so, nobody was catching anything. Ugh, just turned around and paddled in in disgust. Made it to shore with no waves. Of course that's when the set hit. It looked meh, lumpy, and not too rideable. This is what one gets for waiting until the afternoon to surf. In hindsight, should've just gone out at the first spot.

Final Score: 3 hours of time, two spots, one wave

Dudes probably from newbury park

 

[teeroi]

Dude, they're just being friendly!

Duu, just trying to be funny by posting something that doesn’t really mean anything.

I assumed I wouldn’t have to explain that to you cause you post a lot of things that doesn’t really mean anything, except the funny part.

I keed, I keed. Gonna paddle out to my regular where I can back paddle randoms and I don’t have to give half hearted compliments to get a wave. Aloha

 

[estreet]

On the way up, we stopped at Clowny Line for lunch. All I can say, is "The Kook is Strong" there. This duu is great example.
View attachment 134053

It took this guy 10 minutes to remove his wetsuit. The pic don't show it, but he had three of the doors wide open before. The large storage container came out, On goes the poncho, but he shedded the wettie onto the ground. Next he put the wettie into the box, and whipped out the 5 gallon water jug. Rinse, toss wettie into back, without a care. I thought it strange how there was so much ritual, only to end with a carefree toss into the back. Duu then rinses hisself off, ok, that's normal. Then, he very thoroughly washes off the softop. After all this, jumps in truck, no shirt, and heads back to Venture area. I commented to my wife that I've been doing it wrong all these years. Best/worst part, the very next guy that was done surging, had pretty much the same setup. I left saddened and confused.

I rinse the wettie when I get home, then soak it in lemon water with fresh mint leaves from the garden so the next day it’s lemony fresh.

 

[One-Off]

Yesterday I scored midday, early afternoon. Head high plus. First real waves in over 2 weeks.

I wore a watch to time sets but it was useless. 8 minutes, 6 minutes 15 minutes, 20 minutes. Yeah, there were some long lulls and then 6-10 wave sets that made it feel like a winter day.

No crowd. My guess is some people pulled up to check it, watched for 15 minutes, saw dribblers and so they left. My last wave was a smaller one and I almost paddled back out to wait for another big set, but decided to save some energy for tomorrow (today). Met a friend on the way up and we watched for over 30 minutes and no sets....glad I got out.

Shoulder's sore but I'm gonna pound some vitamin I (Ibuprofen) and go back for more punishmnent...got get it while the gettings good.

 

[PRCD]

might be rich but not wrong.

and fwiw, i dont claim status. getting waves is easy when you put in the time and know your place in the ecosystem.

simple lessons. easy to learn as grom. lost on the adult learner keyboard warrior crew

SInce you had to get into it with me, let's address this. SoCal is basically Manhattan by the Sea now. Gone are the seaside slums and blue collar beach towns. Kids can't afford to stay. Wave upon wave of transplants and blow-ins comes here from all over the planet. Being a transplant from SoCal yourself, you should understand this. There were some fair points made about big 'L' Locals having the right-of-way, but that doesn't mean they can completely throw-out manners especially when they are back-paddling other locals and this is SoCal. For my part, I waited my turn and worked my way in. I got plenty of waves since I can read the lineup and paddle.

You definitely sound like you're from PV rather than N. SF Bay - like you transplanted but remained a Bay Boy mentally. None of my friends up there who surf talk about "putting in the time" because it's not Lunada Bay where locals stand on the bluffs "putting in time" rather than surfing. They drive all over the place to fickle spots depending on the wind, tide and swell so I've never heard them talk about "their local."

When was the last time you posted about your own surf session ITT? It seems like you're on here to police (imagined) behavior as if you're still standing on the bluffs overlooking Lunada with the other Bay Boys. Since you've been giving unsolicited advice, let me give you some: less talk, more surfing.