***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***

Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
3,041
4,550
113
Innzid
View attachment 132336

From a couple weeks ago. Thats is a non set wave. overhead slabby, just a handful of regulars out. absolutely firing for about an hr n a 1/2. Then wind n tide came up, turning it into chest high garbage.

awesome session.

Was outa the water for a week n bagged some racey glas chest high close outs Wednesday, but beautiful morning n peak all to myself.

possibly a solid score this mornin, we’ll see
Looks mint!

You on Sunny Coast, aye?
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
68,684
20,892
113
The Bar
Man, warm water, Costco people shouting you into waves, bowly lefts, I need to join you over there teeroi even if just for scraps!

My usual has apparently given me PTSD. I prefer surfing backside and clean left came in but nope, anxiety about the 30+ waves after I'd have to duckdive whether I got into it or not. Super-skittish lately. I may have to say fuck the 5/4, go down to the 4/3, eat the cold, but be able to paddle with at least some fire. Not the kind of waves you can plod after either.

What I learned from last PT with that comminuted fracture in my foot - physical therapy approved by insurance is only $15 copay, which is one fuckload cheaper than a personal trainer. Gonna be taking full advantage of that. Physical therapist is also right next to BOTH a cryp Mexi joint and the best damn sushi house in town. Takeaway to keep the wife happy aw yeah. Especially since a great golf course for the money right next door too. :jamon:
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,273
113
San Diego, CA
Onshore thigh to waist high peelers on a dropping tide mid morning. Tried an out of the way reef to get away from the weekend warriors but there was still a couple logs and a GerryLopez x Costco softie out. They were sitting pretty far outside for what was coming through, so I sat inside of them and poached a few. Got about 10 little rights on the mini asym in 30’. Mostly just some speed runs down the line but a few fs slashes. Good fun before I had to jet to a kids’ bday party. Water seemed to dip down a bit from earlier in the week. Hope we don’t have another summer of yo-yo water temps like ‘21.
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,107
9,269
113
eastside oahu
Dawned the regular on the grovel twin Wade let me demo. Waves were small but clean.

The boar is fast, there’s a lot of foam so catching waves and getting going is easy but turns take a little more muscle. The easy speed helps loosen up the boar. Might try without the trailer next grovel sesh.

First wave got in easy. Boar pumps down the line fast then when I tried to do a wrap the tail slide out. Think my back foot was too forward and I pushed the boar out from under me.

Next wave got a closeout but hit the lip and it felt good. When I paddled back out Dddean said you picked a lemon. I told him I hit the lip and it looks like I’m the only one doing that. Haha.

Got a couple of nuggets and managed 4-5 turns. The YTwin has good flow into the next turn. Definitely made sections on it I wasn’t making with my Stubby yesterday.

Fun boar for sure.
 

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
11,985
22,523
113
PNW
I dont even surf anymore. Knee has been bothering me for 2 months and then just as it was starting to feel betterish i got covid which laid me out for a couple more weeks. Now its flat. Lol.

I dont think ive missed many waves of quality but i sure wouldnt mind getting wet again here at some point. Stokes me out to read everyones reports so please keep it up.
 

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
9,698
2,321
113
Oceanside, CA
Little more choppy than yesterday and the set waves would kind of jack up quickly and
throw, which I'm not necessarily a fan of, but got a handful of ok lefts on the Twinsman.
Board def catches waves very well, is fast and loose, but I'm not sold so far for
my tastes. To be fair, I haven't had very good waves to test it in, but I feel a bit awkward
when up and riding on it. Will give it a few more tries in decent conditions...we'll see.
 

b.r.

Phil Edwards status
Dec 19, 2003
5,922
3,033
113
Leucadia
www.youtube.com
Trying to surf every other day after jacking up my back. Monday afternoon at a local beach break parking difficult location with a high tide. Surfed with a couple people, fun sections warm water. Tried the point on Wednesday on the lb. Mediocre but felt ok back wasn’t acting up. Friday at a nearby campground pulling in random bigger sets than I was expecting, then long lulls, ended up getting cold after 2 hours in my trunks and rash guard, getting old is a drag barely got to my feet on my last wave in, did a decent turn and headed to the jacuzzi.
 

Swallow Tail

Billy Hamilton status
Oct 6, 2017
1,679
2,938
113
Your Mom’s House
I dont even surf anymore. Knee has been bothering me for 2 months and then just as it was starting to feel betterish i got covid which laid me out for a couple more weeks. Now its flat. Lol.

I dont think ive missed many waves of quality but i sure wouldnt mind getting wet again here at some point. Stokes me out to read everyones reports so please keep it up.
Bummer. Lotsa bros around here end up body surfing/playing in the ocean w one fin on the good leg when healing a knee or ankle… just a thought- I’m extra frothy n need to get some n the water regularly or I start to develop a twitch
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,273
113
San Diego, CA
While driving around looking for surf yesterday, Spotted this super cool bro at one of the kookier spots around. Just rinse-kitting off his boar with a DIY pvc pipe angled kickstand setup…
D715F76D-13A1-41A3-8940-43BD5CA4CD16.jpeg
F811AE1F-9B5C-4244-91C6-4ABE1E28B30D.jpeg
Edit: @tedshred5 i thought you said you were on a surf trip down south??

@Havoc sawhorses are too easy. This is way more core. Wonder what angle he set the pipes at for max water drainage? Is that the MidStrength or the new Middy?
 
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Havoc

Phil Edwards status
May 23, 2016
7,680
12,215
113
in da hood next to paradise
I dont even surf anymore. Knee has been bothering me for 2 months and then just as it was starting to feel betterish i got covid which laid me out for a couple more weeks. Now its flat. Lol.

I dont think ive missed many waves of quality but i sure wouldnt mind getting wet again here at some point. Stokes me out to read everyones reports so please keep it up.
get an echo bike and get sum blood flowing. will heal faster
 

Swallow Tail

Billy Hamilton status
Oct 6, 2017
1,679
2,938
113
Your Mom’s House
I set my expectations to high for Friday n ended up not surfing, surfed Same spot Saturday w worse conditions haha. Just a few bros out. One swam for. A bit n nice enough to snap a pic of me.

scored glassy shoulder to a bit overhead long runners w the odd barrel section at a juicy reef break Early this morning. just me n my dog on da beach BE572DA1-76B9-4F34-8D87-B8073CDE51EF.jpeg