Someone has to start it off so it might as well be me.
I ate way too much steak and potatoes last night. Restless, digesting sleep but was going to drag myself out regardless. Parking lot already pretty full by 7:30, nice fat 7 foot high tide peaking around 8:30. I felt sluggish as hell and surfed like it, just really slow. But still got a few decent turns in here and there and some good waves. Waves were about chest to shoulder high with some maybe(?) head high sets but really burgery. I actually had a decent rhythm at first, getting several waves off the bat but had more of a tough time when that tide turned and started going low.
Pretty clean conditions considering how it was howling onshore yesterday. Turning into beautiful (although still chilly) day. Stocked to get out there, kick off the New Year well.
I ate way too much steak and potatoes last night. Restless, digesting sleep but was going to drag myself out regardless. Parking lot already pretty full by 7:30, nice fat 7 foot high tide peaking around 8:30. I felt sluggish as hell and surfed like it, just really slow. But still got a few decent turns in here and there and some good waves. Waves were about chest to shoulder high with some maybe(?) head high sets but really burgery. I actually had a decent rhythm at first, getting several waves off the bat but had more of a tough time when that tide turned and started going low.
Pretty clean conditions considering how it was howling onshore yesterday. Turning into beautiful (although still chilly) day. Stocked to get out there, kick off the New Year well.