Good times on the Arakawa Firecat with a clean beautiful morning at one of my usuals. Spread out peaks, some with good potential, but eventually sets started backing off as the tide came up. It's been fun figuring this board out - it's such a responsive hp quad fish. Build quality makes me really bullish on getting another EA custom in the future. I'd like to try it as a twin + trailer at some point. 2mm short sleeve full felt perfect for the water temp.
I surfed Sat & Sun and it was pretty uninspiring. I have the week off from work and it's been 2-3 and windy the whole time. So basically the same as everyday over the summer, just with nasty red tide.
I took out the new (to me) log and even that didn't really bring any joy. Waves were kinda alternating between peaky with no wall and closeouts. Not exactly longboard waves. But too soft for a shortboard. Of course Thursday looks like there may be something and my schedule is packed. I'm hoping Friday with have some short period leftovers for me.
Forgot I had an early this morning leaving me only 30 minutes for a surf. Fortunately the water is still warm enough to trunk in the morning making it that much quicker. The groms were swarming and it was hard to get one of the good ones but I got to pull in to a couple close outs. I finally lined up a peak with open face for my last wave and absolutely botched my first turn. Classic.
Some westerly direction, high tide at noon, yep Boulders. Jibbly high and glassy with cloud cover. I'd have to call it mediocre, which is good rating for this spot.
Paddled out straight from the path, sucked, went down 50 yards to ol' faithful boulders zone. Solo, again, couple of peeps up towards the jetties. Second wave was one where you are riding and making it, but never really fully in control of the situation. After negotiating plenty of backwash, I get to the inside where I got comboed by the wave, sidewash and backwash at the same time. The wave swatted me like a nuisance and I went down. It's been so long since a wave had it's complete way with me that I rose up out of the water with a double arms up claim of stockness.
The tide peaked, backwash diminished and the waves improved. I have said it before, this is not a spot where one scrubs speed. I actually caught two where I traded speed for large amounts of spray throwing. Felt good, yay!!!
Deadliest Catch - Encinitas
A nice sized lobster boat showed up, looking just like a mini crab boat, all loaded up with traps. It dumped a bunch right out front where there used to be kelp, then went down to the 1st and 2nd staircases and dropped more off. Always fun to see the start of lobster season.
water still pretty warm and I've been surfing in trunks with a jacket, last few days I noticed a couple of patches of cooler water down deeper, maybe the beginnings of the cool down. Surfed 7 out of the 8 last days, fun waves at the beach breaks around here at high tide, and decent low tide reef surfs in the afternoons. Sopa mentioned the lobster traps, usually is flat when they lay them out, then immediately after we get our first big nw of the season to drag a bunch of traps into the lineup.
Water cooled off fast! First surf in a suit in a few months, it’s amazing how much stiffer even a nice flexy suit feels compared to trunking warm water. I rode the twinsman at my old beach haunt. My preferred peak was kind of working but mostly as close outs. I made my way to the same peak as everyone else and got a couple runners both ways. I wasn’t surfing great but it was still fun. Feels like fall.
Overdue for an entry. I love this time of year. Tis the season of anticipation. Waves have been hit or miss, but the good stuff is right around the corner. I can feel it in me bones. So far, the nicest moments have been weather related. Warm water. Chilly mornings. Light winds. You know the deal.
Got two days on the 6'0" Chris Borst. The better session was pretty damn fun, despite a rabid crowd of ripping groms. One of them is a rising star with loads of potential -- not to mention humility and respect. He gets the nod of approval from even the crankiest of fuggers. The other two sessions were on the 5'9" Rocket Wide. Nothing too special... but nice to hit up a spot that sits pretty quiet during the summer.
I had some obligations this morning that put me squarely into very high tide. I checked my usual spot but there wasn’t enough south to make it work so back to the beach I go. It almost didn’t look worth bothering wave wise but the crowd was light and winds were light so I figured I might as well go. I think we’re nearing the end of trunk szn but today was perfect temp wise. Rode the manta for the first time in at least a few weeks. Sheesh this board is amazing in small gutless crap. I got a full round house that felt great and a few other decent little turns. It took some adapting to that thiccc tail but It was perfect for the conditions.
Surprisingly fun. Looked at the main peak area for awhile and was more inspired to take a nap than paddle out. Crowded, backing off horribly, and just bad. Went to a different area instead and ended up sharing a fun little sandbar left with 4 other guys, plenty of waves to go around and very cordial with minimal kookery. Only about knee to waist high but that section had a little bit of juice as it wedged up so it was easy to get into and was a very defined left so it didn't really close out until the inside. That 6'8" is apparently a good groveler too in small waves. Great board all around, stocked on it.
Moon jellyfish everywhere. No tentacles though, just slimy blobs. Nasty.
Surfed twice for the first time in 4 months. Thursday evening glass off. Took the 7'2 Hess Traveler Gun. Rolled into a few mushy outside bar waves. Knee felt OK popping up, dropping in and easing into a bottom turn.
Took the 7'4 Son of Cobra Twin today. It was cleaner and lining up nicely. Was able to get about 6 waves. Pop up was quick and clean. Nice pocket rides and even a little high to low action. Good to feel that glide again. Glad I haven't missed anything good yet this season. Probably another 6-8 weeks until I'm 100%? Until then, I'll surf the mellow days and just go straight.