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***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***

K

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
68,918
21,293
113
The Bar
Up and down session this morning. Easy paddle out and got first wave right off the bat, well before sunrise. Current was sneaky and was pulling out, plus a lot of waves were tamaracking, really frustratingly so at times. Lot of waves that would roll, roll, jack, dump, and immediate burger but there were a few that lined up really nicely. Got several really fun waves, good start to the day.

On the way in, saw seagulls picking out the guts of a still-twitching dungeness on the sand. Rough way to go out - dunno if worse than being boiled alive, though. Good reminder that as a bad a day as you might be having, it could be a ton worse.
 
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oeste858

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,001
17,425
113
San Diego, CA
Late morning CH-HH at the main reef. Finally got the used 6’0 mini ghost out for maiden voyage after months of sub-par conditions. I will just say, I didn’t click with it, and that’s surely 90% archer. After so long riding only wide-point fwd twins and minisims and grovelers, it felt like paddling a toothpick- and yes, i realize MG is a full-figured, beak-nosed SB. Had some moments (bottom turns off the thruster felt great) but took me a good half hour to get used to it. Thick crowd of 30+, and I definitely missed some that I would’ve picked off on my usual boars.
Waves were really punchy, but WNW wind came up as I was out there making is messier, and crumbling sections down the line. My rythym after the bottom turn was so off. Felt like I needed to be actively working and constantly going up and down, up and down… but the wave didn’t really fit that either. Momentum would stall between racy sections, as the wave pretty much goes fast-slow-fast. I missed the effortless glide and kinda of “pause” you can take on a fishy twin as it projects across the face. Not a lot of opportunities for snaps as I would’ve liked. Had one kinda sorta chandelier coverup for a sec.

My last wave was a pretty good chest-high wedge on the inside bowl, had a nice bottom turn to mid-face snap as it started to wall up, then I tried to pull in on the inside section. Got blasted, hit the inside reef hard. Came up with a few scrapes and bruises on my back and legs and reef rash on a couple spots of the bottom of the boar. Ugh. Walking up the rocks, I realized I got a pretty good charley horse on my right thigh, a couple hours later and I’m practically dragging a dead leg. LOL
 
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MathDebater

MathDebater

Michael Peterson status
Apr 13, 2016
2,592
6,136
113
SD
Helluva first session. I rode my GX for the first time in likely a year and had very similar feelings. In the punchier waves it felt great but any flat sections and I was missing the fishy glide.

Surfed the middy at my usual spot at lunch. The winds were blowin' hard and it was hard to be in position but I got to pull into a barrel (on my belly - it totally counts) and got one turn that felt dece. I'll take it.
 
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silentbutdeadly

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,685
23,446
113
Tower 13
Nothing great but a handful that were fun enough to make it more than worth while. My board pimp dropped off two more boards :foreheadslap: and this one is really fun:

IMG_4488.jpg

Lively and super skatey. The last part of the rail cutting in really makes it pivot well. Plenty of volume and get up and go even at 5'6". Must be good if people told me it looked fun that don't normally comment much lol.

Stocked that the wind didn't turn the water. Still felt great.
 
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G

gbg

Miki Dora status
Jan 22, 2006
3,929
3,468
113
Empty this am. Surfed with Simon's photographer friend Andrew today. Just us most of the time. 3 spongers 100 yards up the beach. More NW energy than south. Not ideal for that place but open little lefts to slide into. 20220922_061017.jpg20220922_060724.jpg20220922_061026.jpg
 
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Oceanslide

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
9,705
2,335
113
Oceanside, CA
silentbutdeadly said:
Nothing great but a handful that were fun enough to make it more than worth while. My board pimp dropped off two more boards :foreheadslap: and this one is really fun:

View attachment 138345

Lively and super skatey. The last part of the rail cutting in really makes it pivot well. Plenty of volume and get up and go even at 5'6". Must be good if people told me it looked fun that don't normally comment much lol.

Stocked that the wind didn't turn the water. Still felt great.
Click to expand...
SuperChunk is a fantastic design. Love my dank farts version.
 
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silentbutdeadly

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,685
23,446
113
Tower 13
sweet! yeah oeste has another on order and when he sells this one someone is gonna be stocked. as I told him, if I didn;t already have two amazing grovelers I'd snatch it up in a heartbeat.
 
Sam_K

Sam_K

Legend (inyourownmind)
Dec 11, 2019
413
958
93
Swell hit late and came out of nowhere. First hour was biggish then in the space of 15 minutes it went to mega size. It was the biggest waves I've ever seen at this spot. I snagged a single bomb wave and bunch of smaller ones. I was on a 7'10 and I wish I had an 8'10. Pretty tough entry. Was the first time I've gotten to really put my Padillac on some good waves and it felt fine. Turns pretty well. Still think it looks like a bar of soap and the Carrera is way more aesthetically pleasing, but the Padillac really does paddle amazing.
 
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slipped_disc

slipped_disc

Billy Hamilton status
Jun 27, 2019
1,573
2,372
113
Took the last few weeks off after tweaking my knee, but finally got back in the water last night. Life is so much better with surfing in it. Rode the go-to Rocket Wide Squash. Babied it. Left on a good note. Met up with wifey afterwards and an old coworker of hers. Over drinks we learned that the old coworker is essentially a meme-brought-to-life of the far left. Example: she claimed that "Old Man's" is an ageist name for a surf spot. So what did we do for dinner?? We took her to a taqueria owned by a meme-brought-to-life... from the far right. The tea party could seriously use this guy as a poster child: he's an immigrant, capital "g" gay, and full of outlandish opinions. He came out and spoke with us at closing time, and tried out his wildest hot takes on America, American politics and COVID.

I didn't think people like this existed in real life, but alas, I ran into two from each end of the spectrum in one night. Wife and I laughed for hours replaying the interactions and wild sh!t that was said. America's collective mind may be terminally rotten, but it sure does make for good entertainment.
 
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K

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
68,918
21,293
113
The Bar
Ran 10 miles this morning and then took family to southern beachbreak. Waves were pretty much closed out mushy garbage. Kids had fun in it; I surfed that 6'6" speed demon but nothing really that could be done with waves. Farting around with my son going through inside whitewash, felt that sand grab and sure enough snapped the side fin out. Thankfully the old FCS so it just snapped it off at the tabs instead of pulling out the entire box. Hadn't surfed that board since I moved up here. Good to paddle that board around; a shame the waves were such sh!t. Had a good time bodysurfing though for an hour or so with the kids. So there was that at least.

Should have worn booties. Water flow got underneath the other big toenail, peeled it straight upwards. Joy. Now to decide if I want to peel it off now or tape it down for later mischief...
 
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K

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
68,918
21,293
113
The Bar
Went to my usual today. Got there semi-early and man, knew it would be crowded later on and it was, something like 100+ spread out. Lotta Marin heading north with softtops. Waves were fits and starts. Waist to shoulder high, maybe a head high on the bigger souths, but generally really lackluster waves. Lot of the rolled rolled rolled jacked dumped. Tamarack North Bullshit. Whole lineup underwent a 45 minute skunking at one point. But that's south swells for you. Alas. Frustration but also some really fun nuggets when they did cooperate. One guy and I laughed because I had a wave where perfect so pitted position but the wave did not pit and was just sitting on foam ball waiting for it to set up but never did.

Eventually got wise, sat on inside "reforms", and got a flurry of fun little mini-runners before deciding it was abysmal sh!t and got a last one in.

Still, though, considering I had to cut a big toenail off at a 45 degree angle as 1/4 of it still alive last night, serious finesse, not sure I would even be able to surf at all, brought a roll of masking tape just in case but booties felt OK, stocked I was able to surf anyways.

It's funny, down south, this would have been actually a decent day but I've been spoiled. Very badly. South swells always irritate me. Nothing nothing nothing forever and then it has more power paddling out than getting into waves. Almost, ALMOST was missing those 9@9 days this springr which jacked my shoulder. Either one or the other I guess. Evil or lethargic, one of the two, nothing in between. But a 7@14 swell would be really, really nice right now. :beer:
 
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MathDebater

MathDebater

Michael Peterson status
Apr 13, 2016
2,592
6,136
113
SD
Picked up my freshly repaired twinsman from ropers then headed to oestes zone with low expectations. The tide was maxing and it wasn’t too enticing. I took the day off after getting back late from a wedding so I figured I should check a few more spots. As one does, I ended up back and my usual. It was messy side off shore and a bit difficult with the dropping tide but still plenty of opportunities. I surfed pretty embarrassingly at first (glad to be in my own zone after all) But got it together by the end. Got a head dip and a few fun turns on oestes plasmic. Scored after the session too. 02224297-01FC-44D8-B06E-844DF64E9950.jpeg
 
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tedshred5

tedshred5

Michael Peterson status
Aug 5, 2015
2,766
6,505
113
MathDebater said:
Picked up my freshly repaired twinsman from ropers then headed to oestes zone with low expectations. The tide was maxing and it wasn’t too enticing. I took the day off after getting back late from a wedding so I figured I should check a few more spots. As one does, I ended up back and my usual. It was messy side off shore and a bit difficult with the dropping tide but still plenty of opportunities. I surfed pretty embarrassingly at first (glad to be in my own zone after all) But got it together by the end. Got a head dip and a few fun turns on oestes plasmic. Scored after the session too. View attachment 138575
Click to expand...
multiple Albums in the car and having the time to check multiple spots, you're living @oeste858 's dream!
 
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