***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
11,990
22,531
113
PNW
boogied the sh!t out of some little dreamers this morning at a beachbreak up north. my kicking muscles are slightly less rubbish than they were when i started this whole journey a few months ago. i lasted nearly an hour before my feet started cramping up. sunny, calm, clear water. felt great to get wet.
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,276
113
San Diego, CA
Pretty damn fun lil late afternoon sesh on draining tide. 3-4 guys out at reef2. Waves were a bit soft but playful WH-CH wedges coming through. got 3 good long rights towards the end that really put a smile on my face. Needed that!

Took out the 5’6 mandala superchunk for the first time in 6-8 months, and man, the boar is fun. Confirmed I don’t love paddling it out to the break and back to the peak after long rides. But up and riding, the concave deck feels like a snowboar: carving, swooping, slashing. Used the album TA quad set for first time and it felt great.

for my DA Mandala custom order, I think I’m gonna take this 5’6 biax SC and the Plasmic to manny and tell him to blend them into a fish-nosed superchunk Delta-v to stretch it out to around 5’9-5’10. Hope the extra swing weight doesn’t ruin the magic. Only question for him will be twin or keep the quad- which feels so good. I’m excited.
:shaka:
 

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
9,698
2,321
113
Oceanside, CA
Paddled out yesterday in the dark and had an entire (maybe) 400 yd zone to myself for about 1/2 hour.
Managed 3 waves that stood up, ran quickly for a ways, then detonated in shallow water.
Then a couple buddies paddled out where I was and somehow 2 lefts came straight to me that didn't
close out right away and ran down the beach. Thank you, friends.
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,276
113
San Diego, CA
Checked on two jobsites this am, and less to do than expected, so I snuck out late morning for a high tide surf. Back at Reef2 again, but 10-15 guys out: most of them annoying af on crutch boars, missing waves or just wasting them without a single real turn, and I’d bet anything they’ve been sarfing <5 yrs. Had two takeoffs where I managed to cross behind the kook going the wrong way. It’s ok to split a peak, guys.

Chest high sets were pretty damn fun on the lil 5’6 Mandala again. Crowd thinned out after 40min as tide made it less consistent. Much more fun with only 3-4 guys out. Would catch a long one almost in and then kept saying “just one more” at least 3 times. Wish I could’ve stayed out for a couple hours.
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,276
113
San Diego, CA
After procrastinating some accounting work for weeks, I finally had to pull an all-nighter getting done before today's deadline. So, I treated myself to a quick surf this am after 2 hours sleep and getting the kids to school.
Getting changed, the guy parked in front of me, from Hawaii (Ras Trent haole with dreads), said he just snapped his leash and asked if I had one I'd sell him. Didn't think I did, but looked and found an extra ProLite comp in the back that was a couple years old. He tried hard to give me some cash for it, but I insisted he take it- I need all the karma points I can get! He was stocked and went to get changed back into his wetsuit.

Punchy, backwashy CH sets at gentleman’s hour on the quickly rising tide. Lotsa water moving around. Rode the 5'6 superchunk again. So fun. Takes a lot to come unstuck from the concave deck, but I got smashed when I tried to pull into a frothy one off the drop. Fin nicked my ankle but not bad. Otherwise, the lil rocket skateboar handled a lot of steep bumpy drops and warbly sections. one positive of the short length is fitting in tight spaces. Looking at it later, the back half is pretty flat, but the wide nose has a bit of rocker to it (more than I expected) and a little scoop to the nose... kept me from pearling at least 2-3 times. So much speed, but still whips around razor sharp.
This album TA quad set is really nice too, stocked it feels as good as the template looked to me.

Had to go after 30min, but got a few punchy ones. High tide was pushing the break further inside. Ras Trent paddled back out but I didn't seem him catch a wave from his spot outside. Hope he got a couple

My shoulders are killin me from paddling this thing the past few days tho.

edit: I should’ve asked RasT if he was an electrician and surfed with @racer1 back home
 
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urchined

Nep status
Jul 20, 2019
763
1,386
93
NCSD, CA
Sunset sesh last night. Too low tide for the reef but nice glass off with my kid. Anyone know if TOMO in town (NCSD) @ReForest? I’m fairly sure it was him at my local which is not a high profile spot so somewhat weird. 2 things. 1. His buddies were joking with him about FireWire trying to steal his designs. They were laughing hard while DT was downplaying. 2. I’ll I really wanted was a camera of some sort so I could get a pic. DM to forest to place on the alter of worship so he could pleasure himself at will. Or 3rd option-DT still In Auz and the erBB has fuk’d my head. Maybe more probable.
 

urchined

Nep status
Jul 20, 2019
763
1,386
93
NCSD, CA
I thought DT’s knee was f-ed and he couldn’t surf.
Could’ve been Laniel Bomo. Heard he’s been shaping rad boars in SoCal. Board Source has one of his twins in stoke. Go grab it!
Oh-your right. I forgot about the knee. That means I made the entire thing up in my head. erBB brain warped. Bummer
 
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Reactions: MathDebater

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
11,990
22,531
113
PNW
Took the plasmid for its maiden voyage last night at the jetty left. Chest high or so with nice shape. Still had to pick the good ones that walled up deep. Tons of rip flowing off the bar made it tough to hold position and i was glad for the big board. Just one newb floundering on the shoulder and me. Got a few nuggy ones from deep and the board felt great. Tons of drive off the back foot. Some of the waves had this second section down the line that would crumble up top but still had nice tranny below allowing for high speed foam climb rock n roll floaters. Knee felt decent during the surf and today feels a little sore but not terrible. Worth it.
 

toowalled

Nep status
Jul 3, 2014
842
946
93
Took the plasmid for its maiden voyage last night at the jetty left. Chest high or so with nice shape. Still had to pick the good ones that walled up deep. Tons of rip flowing off the bar made it tough to hold position and i was glad for the big board. Just one newb floundering on the shoulder and me. Got a few nuggy ones from deep and the board felt great. Tons of drive off the back foot. Some of the waves had this second section down the line that would crumble up top but still had nice tranny below allowing for high speed foam climb rock n roll floaters. Knee felt decent during the surf and today feels a little sore but not terrible. Worth it.
Hey bro do you live closer to washington or california border?
 

MathDebater

Michael Peterson status
Apr 13, 2016
2,584
6,128
113
SD
Yesterday surfed pretty epic 2-3 toobin bb conditions but couldn't come out of anything. Watched some groms get some sick ones. Even though I didn’t make any my backside toob Riding felt less out of control than usual.
met my buddy who was visiting for a late morning blown out session but managed some fun ones. All my best waves were burning my friends.
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,499
23,099
113
Tower 13
Got a nasty cold after surfing in dirty water from Kay and I made it worse last week pushing through hiking in the sierras. Gave her a go this morning in small walled up serf.

Texted oeste yesterday asking if I could borrow his plasmid sometime and it was in my garage by noon. Probably the best board pimp there is. Just incredible service.

Got a few racers but didn't really click with the board unfortunately. Paddles insanely well but it's a thick girl with some beef throughout a good portion of the board. Board trims and turns really well with your back foot on the sweetspot but when it came time to get down to business I felt a lot of swing weight up front. maybe I just needed to cruise it more... but it turns off the tail so well... ??

Probably a great board for the reefs or crowded days chasing down and picking off everything.

Thanks @oeste858 !
 

Swallow Tail

Billy Hamilton status
Oct 6, 2017
1,679
2,938
113
Your Mom’s House
Friday Got glassy head high to a couple feet over head long, powerful, glassy reef setup for a few hrs w just a couple dudes out. Was first surf in a couple weeks, which were filled w tough life events. Didn’t surf great but did snag some good ones. Felt so good to get back in the water.

Lake pacific this morning but beautiful and took the dog for a long walk early.
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,276
113
San Diego, CA
Just time for a midday quickie. Had high hopes for a mini ghost tryout this am, but I couldn’t break free of work until the wind had already come up. 30+ crowd out at the main reefs, so I opted for an out-of-the-way, lesser size/quality reef down the road. Soft n fluffy waist high peelers with low stakes. Still pretty fun on the 5’9 asymmons, messin around tryin to do spins and cheater-5s every wave and link weak sections. Warm water and surfed han solo …so I could wear a kookstrap hat without shame or judgement. Hope I can get out earlier tomorrow for cleaner conditions
 
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Sam_K

Legend (inyourownmind)
Dec 11, 2019
412
954
93
Found a good deal on a used Lost Party Crasher so I snagged it, had it out today in some really crappy waves. Felt good. First diamond tail board I've ever surfed. Was surprised how well it pivoted on that tail even though the board is too big for me. @38 liters it's a total funboat, but I think this one could be really cool in shortboard size.

One more day of sh!t waves then the swell is supposed to turn on for a week.