***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,276
113
San Diego, CA
Will have to do a trip there soon. Used to go a lot back in the day but haven’t been since kids.

Fun lil sesh at the main reef late morning on the dropping tide. Looked a bit fat and I saw a few roll under the pack so I took the flat-rockered 6’6 PlasmEgg, plus only my 2nd surf in a month so I’m still trying to get back in surf shape. Sat under the pack of 10-15 and got a couple fun wedges through the inside, smooth carves and wraps. Boar felt dialed in.
But as the tide kept dropping from the high, it started crossing up a bit more and running into an early closeout section and also lots of water wedging together on the inside. Guess I got a bit cocky cause I took a couple trips through the spin cycle when I couldn’t hang on through a late churning drop and then a botched floater. Managed to get a good amount of water in my sinuses/ears. Called it a day after that.

I blame the arrow of course, rather than the recently spare-tired archer. Smaller boar would’ve been able to navigate the critical sections easier. Lightbender I had in the car would’ve been better. Oh well.

water was toasty. was cooking in my jacket and trunks.
 
Last edited:

MathDebater

Michael Peterson status
Apr 13, 2016
2,584
6,128
113
SD
Oh right on, maybe we did! Were you with the crew staying at the unit by the pool with the "happy birthday" sign hanging on the patio? We were down with some friends who don't surf, so I just snuck out for the early AM session on Saturday and Sunday. Waves and weather were definitely on point, and not as crowded as it usually is at that spot.
Naw, no sign but that crew was pretty friendly too. Walked into our room while we were partying on Sunday and shared Some drinks. I was with friends that dont surf too so i mostly surfed the same window. Stoke is high after this weekend.
 

tedshred5

Michael Peterson status
Aug 5, 2015
2,724
6,382
113
Naw, no sign but that crew was pretty friendly too. Walked into our room while we were partying on Sunday and shared Some drinks. I was with friends that dont surf too so i mostly surfed the same window. Stoke is high after this weekend.
nice. we were the group of 4 at the pool on Saturday midday, drinking Pacifico and playing music from a portable speaker.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Havoc

MathDebater

Michael Peterson status
Apr 13, 2016
2,584
6,128
113
SD
nice. we were the group of 4 at the pool on Saturday midday, drinking Pacifico and playing music from a portable speaker.
I think I remember your group. We had a dozen people getting heavily sunburnt And buzzed. I came in from my second surf around 1 on a orange twin pin and all my friends cheered for me catching a tiny wave in (instead of doing a paddle of shame). So when are doing an Errb EAST (@oeste858 ’s quiver edition) down there?

Just finished washing off the remaining birthday weekend booze with a pretty epic session at my usual summer reef. Air drops, some head dips and lots of turn sections. Stock.
 

toowalled

Nep status
Jul 3, 2014
842
946
93
I think I remember your group. We had a dozen people getting heavily sunburnt And buzzed. I came in from my second surf around 1 on a orange twin pin and all my friends cheered for me catching a tiny wave in (instead of doing a paddle of shame). So when are doing an Errb EAST (@oeste858 ’s quiver edition) down there?

Just finished washing off the remaining birthday weekend booze with a pretty epic session at my usual summer reef. Air drops, some head dips and lots of turn sections. Stock.
Did you get a bday yolo board? I tried but couldnt make it happen :cautious:
 
  • Sad
Reactions: MathDebater

MathDebater

Michael Peterson status
Apr 13, 2016
2,584
6,128
113
SD
Surfed my usual for sunset, dont Get a lot of sunset sessions. I forget what a sh!t show they are in the summer. The backwash was getting the better of the waves but I tried to make it work. Eventually I went for a bonus right and a noob lost their longboard into me. Luckily it was one of my boards and not oestes. damage seems pretty minor but a bummer either way.
 

Senor Sopa

Billy Hamilton status
Mar 11, 2015
1,366
2,176
113
Ponto
Surfed my usual for sunset, dont Get a lot of sunset sessions. The backwash was getting the better of the waves but I tried to make it work.
I did a similar. The backwash/sidewash show was awesome. Just sitting there would get sloppy like a pool can get at times. Caught a few against the grain rights, total pinball machine of bouncing wonkiness. By myself, I 00'd the three dudes who had the nerve to be at my zone, lol. Once I paddled past them to the South, all was forgotten, and they drifted away up the beach. As is typical when there's actual swell, avoid the sets, catch the tweeners. I should have gone to the Jetty...

Water was unbelievably warm. Ugh, we can kiss away any thoughts of kelp returning.
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,499
23,099
113
Tower 13
smaller with not a lot of corners. Almost went home but I had my work clothes in the truck so I went for exercise. Ended up getting way more fun waves than yesterday. Good ones were the tweeners so I took the mitsimmons. fark that board is good, and so are my others. I'm so in love with my quiver right now.

Water was like a moist.... with cold spots. Kept the boys in check coming through the trunks!
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,276
113
San Diego, CA
Just time for a quickie on the afternoon dropping tide. Fun kinda sideshore WH-CH runners. 20 guys out so I mostly stuck to the inside wedges ending in floaters.
GMM2 is such a fun boar for these playful softish waves. Sadly, this 5’6 x 20 x 2 1/2 (33L) just feels like paddling around on a pizza box to me nowadays… too short. Gonna upgrade to a 5’8 x 19 soon. HMU if anyone wants this one. It’s 7.C stringered XTR. Yellowed (sigh) but otherwise great condition.

In the process of culling my quiver of boars <5’8. Just don’t ride em anymore. Maybe I’ll ride em all one last time over the next month and then list em.

edit: Can advise against having a JackintheBox spicy crispy chicken sandwich + onion rings + Dr. Pepper less than an hour before sarfing. Bleh
 
Last edited:

MathDebater

Michael Peterson status
Apr 13, 2016
2,584
6,128
113
SD
Went down early (by my standards) to my usual spot to beat the rain and meetings. Not much happening but I figured I should get while the getting is good with the flush that's about to happen. I took the manta and it wasn't a bad choice but there actually ended up being some sets that maxed it out. Overall super fun session, just me and 3-4 salty loccs. The manta is a handful with offshores, so much extra lift. Despite that I got one super fun memorable one that had room for three turns and a fin drift on the end section.