Will have to do a trip there soon. Used to go a lot back in the day but haven’t been since kids.
Fun lil sesh at the main reef late morning on the dropping tide. Looked a bit fat and I saw a few roll under the pack so I took the flat-rockered 6’6 PlasmEgg, plus only my 2nd surf in a month so I’m still trying to get back in surf shape. Sat under the pack of 10-15 and got a couple fun wedges through the inside, smooth carves and wraps. Boar felt dialed in.
But as the tide kept dropping from the high, it started crossing up a bit more and running into an early closeout section and also lots of water wedging together on the inside. Guess I got a bit cocky cause I took a couple trips through the spin cycle when I couldn’t hang on through a late churning drop and then a botched floater. Managed to get a good amount of water in my sinuses/ears. Called it a day after that.
I blame the arrow of course, rather than the recently spare-tired archer. Smaller boar would’ve been able to navigate the critical sections easier. Lightbender I had in the car would’ve been better. Oh well.
water was toasty. was cooking in my jacket and trunks.
Fun lil sesh at the main reef late morning on the dropping tide. Looked a bit fat and I saw a few roll under the pack so I took the flat-rockered 6’6 PlasmEgg, plus only my 2nd surf in a month so I’m still trying to get back in surf shape. Sat under the pack of 10-15 and got a couple fun wedges through the inside, smooth carves and wraps. Boar felt dialed in.
But as the tide kept dropping from the high, it started crossing up a bit more and running into an early closeout section and also lots of water wedging together on the inside. Guess I got a bit cocky cause I took a couple trips through the spin cycle when I couldn’t hang on through a late churning drop and then a botched floater. Managed to get a good amount of water in my sinuses/ears. Called it a day after that.
I blame the arrow of course, rather than the recently spare-tired archer. Smaller boar would’ve been able to navigate the critical sections easier. Lightbender I had in the car would’ve been better. Oh well.
water was toasty. was cooking in my jacket and trunks.
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