***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***

Aruka

Kelly Slater status
Feb 23, 2010
9,633
14,083
113
PNW
Fun lefts at a rivermouth wave. Water was so warm i was cooking in my shittiest 5/4. Rode the shapeye DC. It was a good call I think. Kind of a trippy wave like plenty shortboardable on the good ones but it was nice to have some glide for the inside nuggies. It was great to surf even though i felt kind of slow and out of shape.

San diego surf hat guy tried to paddle his midlength to the peak and the locals gave him a good sounding. It really warmed my heart to witness. Got a few good waves to end the session and watched an epic sunset over the ocean as I drove home along the coast.
 

MathDebater

Michael Peterson status
Apr 13, 2016
2,267
5,167
113
SD
I was San Diego surf hat guy today, but here, in San Diego. I had grand plans of nailing the tide window at my preferred spot but the dogs discovered a mouse in the house and hunted it from 2-3 am so that sort of went out the window. Made it to the beach kind of late and feeling shitty from limited sleep, so I opted to #mantaftw at my high tide spot. It didn’t disappoint, it wasn’t quite working right but it was very passable. I got a few spicy turns on and one big float. Hard to complain in warm water.
 

oeste858

Miki Dora status
Sep 11, 2017
4,435
10,834
113
San Diego, CA
I see there's surf while I'm landlocked out of State and when I get back to hopefully get in the water for a few days it's tiny. Then I leave for another week. I'm getting cranky. Hope the ribs are ready for me to surf Friday.
Same. Been dying to surf. I'm also out of the water for this week at least, until I get some stitches removed. Of course there's been a fun-looking swell the last few days at my spots when I've driven by. Crowded AF tho.
 

cstreet

Gerry Lopez status
Feb 19, 2021
1,096
1,024
113
Southern Cali
I've been admiring the grit of those who brave the south swell beach break at low tide the last couple of days, constantly paddling and still loosing ground to the current, not making the drop and getting pummeled, or getting pummeled by an abrupt close-out. I've waited for the tide and opted for current safe spots. Does that make me a discriminating surfer or a wussy-kook? Don't answer that!
 

Sam_K

OTF status
Dec 11, 2019
310
749
93
Big Ulu today owned me. I caught one small wave and that was it. At one point a cleanup set came and it might have been the largest set I ever took on the head. I've heard big wave surfers talk about a freight train sound, well... Diving underwater, moments before annihilation, and I heard it. The freight train. Freaky. First time experience for me.

I don't even know what I could have done better. I gave it my best, my best wasn't good enough, fin. If I had a 9'6 instead of my 8'6, maybe I would have done better... But there were guys out there on their 7 and 7'6s doing fine.

Between the last big swell and this one, I've seen maybe two freak sets that were proper triple overhead, and I think I've realized that I'm probably not going to deliberately chase waves that size. Seeing those death hills up close, it looks like a whole different level... Heavy stuff.

The Lady!

I've surfed big Bombie maybe 20 times and never seen a lady out there. Today was the first time. She was hanging around for a while, then freight train set came and I didn't see her again. I went in shortly after that and I saw someone swimming. It was her! No board, swimming hard to reach the cave. She just made it on the other side, crawled through the gap in the rock and came in. We had a bit of a chat.

"That looked exciting," I commented.
"Oh yes, yes. But it's ok, no? I am very comfortable in the water. If I couldn't get to the cave I would swim to Thomas beach... Is my board here?"

Her board was there... Very dinged up, but still alive. She was prenaturally calm and looked like she'd just come in from a dip in the pool, rather than losing her board, taking twenty big waves on the head and nearly missing the cave and having to swim another quarter mile all the while getting smashed. But I suppose that if she wasn't ready for such a situation, she wouldn't have been out there.
 

b.r.

Miki Dora status
Dec 19, 2003
5,586
2,012
113
Leucadia
m.youtube.com
After a week on the n shore we are headed to the east side for a few days. Surf has been really fun for this time of year, have been dawn patrolling every day since last Saturday for a surf or family adventure every other day (this let’s the kids sleep in every other day). Wife and I had lunch with PPK yesterday and of course nobody at the restaurant would take my card and let us pay. Surf and weather have been dakine and great visibility for snorkeling with the turtles. Yesterday evening was the first big rain since we got here. A3CD0F38-05BE-4EC8-8C5B-2574A1B170EE.jpegC9AC9E17-852D-4D19-966F-13C42E853237.jpegCB402E40-17F3-4DB0-BA87-B46902E95766.jpeg