***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***

MathDebater

Michael Peterson status
Apr 13, 2016
2,267
5,167
113
SD
Got back out for the first time since the end of the swell last week. It took me a couple days to accept going back to groveling, then I was out of town. My weekend was a bit of a bender and I was going into this surf with very low expectations but I had a shocker in a good way! From my second wave I was having a blast. My best wave was a three turn combo with no pumps in between. Most of the session was me and 4 others enjoying warm water and fun little waves. It got a bit crowded towards the end as my surfing and the waves deteriorated a bit but my stock is still high.
 

oeste858

Miki Dora status
Sep 11, 2017
4,435
10,834
113
San Diego, CA
Got back out for the first time since the end of the swell last week. It took me a couple days to accept going back to groveling, then I was out of town. My weekend was a bit of a bender and I was going into this surf with very low expectations but I had a shocker in a good way! From my second wave I was having a blast. My best wave was a three turn combo with no pumps in between. Most of the session was me and 4 others enjoying warm water and fun little waves. It got a bit crowded towards the end as my surfing and the waves deteriorated a bit but my stock is still high.
nice! Manta? Plasmic?
 

Sam_K

OTF status
Dec 11, 2019
310
749
93
Drove over to Sumbawa to catch scar reef and super suck on the swell. These waves are out of my class so I wasn't really planning on getting much. Sitting far out on the shoulder and watching the real gents tear it up.

Swell never really hit right though and the one day supers was working good, it was onshore the whole time. Pretty much just getting skunked. Did get to see a few halfway proper sets roll through scar reef on a dead low tide and that was impressive. Humbling to see what a real wave looks like.

All in all the waves haven't been great, and when they are OK I've performed like a hungover sailor running an obstacle course. Also, everyone here is Australian. I've spent so much time with the ozzies that I've started talking like them...

Me mate says
100% mate, foh sure
Sucked down a few binnies
Saw me a few stickers in the lineup
Me missus is back home
That fat c*** is always on the pi$$
Hows old mate down there
me mate from newie reckons marggies was 6 foot this arvo
Good on ya!
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
29,474
13,910
113
Tower 13
Lack of patience got the best of me. Decided to see how the rib would feel surfing... it sucked. Luckily it's on of the rear ribs so it doesn't hurt laying on my stomach but paddling put me in a position where it compressed everything on it. Tons of pain. No bueno. Two shitty waves and went in.
 
Last edited:

b.r.

Miki Dora status
Dec 19, 2003
5,586
2,012
113
Leucadia
m.youtube.com
D9F81FD2-D9B8-4AB1-BA6F-33FDFFCEAB9F.jpeg
Turns out my wife got us a Condo right next to shipwrecks, fun size surf on the south shore the last couple days. Walked into the Hyatt resort last evening and checked out the Luau (175$ a head) sitting in the grass side stage with some of the locals family members. Headed to the north shore next week and hope to hang with PPK.
 

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
9,463
1,729
113
Oceanside, CA
Bars seem to be pretty jacked up around here after that last bigger swell. Giant trench between
the outside and inside, causing waves to completely back off very quickly and then (sometimes) reform
on the inside with varying degrees of quality. Did see one little wedge reform kind of working today
when at the beach with the kids, but not often. I managed a few fun outside waves this morning
on the 7'6" HPTC twinzer that allowed for a quick closeout smack before totally burgering out.
 

Bob Dobbalina

Michael Peterson status
Feb 23, 2016
2,333
2,126
113
Lil man had me up at 5am again on Tuesday on so we hung out until he got hungry and tired.
I was able to hand him to mom and slip out for a surf at the north end of the beach around 8:30. It was pretty tiny, almost as small as it gets here , but the early crew had split. took out the 7'10", peaked on my first one, and came in a about 25 minutes later when I fell and lost my board to the beach. I figured I did about all that was going to be done provided the conditions and equipment.
 

oeste858

Miki Dora status
Sep 11, 2017
4,435
10,834
113
San Diego, CA
Been buried under a mountain of catch-up work after being away. Finally got back in the water after 2 weeks. Fun lil WH summer runners at reef2 this afternoon on the 6’4 PlasmEgg. Waves were better than expected and this boar is such a friggin cheat code. Nice warm water too.

5-6 guys out, most were easy enough to paddle around to get in the right spots. One guy on a fish who was alright was taking lefts; we ended up splitting most waves.

There was one real old-timer local out: springsuit, hood, possibly reef booties, full kabuki/Zuck zinc face on a big boar. Guy must be in his 70s… respect. Tried to give him a few but he wasn’t really able to paddle fast enough to catch much out on the shoulder. Didn’t see if he actually got any but he was still enjoying himself out there. Overheard him saying something like “the body just isn’t quite able to do what I want it to…” Hope I’m still getting wet when I’m that age!
 

Sam_K

OTF status
Dec 11, 2019
310
749
93
Last day in Sumbawa, finally some consistent swell filled in. Had a fun session at Scar Reef. Around lunchtime, a bit onshore , high tide and everyone tired from surfing the morning so it was only me and three dudes. Waves were, 8 foot? 10 foot faces? Plenty big enough.

Freaky wave to be sure, but it was perfect for me. Conditions were that golden sweet spot of 1 level above my current abilities. Mostly I made an a$$ of myself but I had an awesome time doing it. Learned quite a bit and I could for sure surf that wave a lot better next time.
 

oeste858

Miki Dora status
Sep 11, 2017
4,435
10,834
113
San Diego, CA
assuming they came with that backpack, a hackeysack , and tickets to a Phish show.
Waves were pretty marginal down there. Few wiggles on the weak rights, riding PlasmEgg. Best wave was a left towards the end that actually lined up through a couple sections.Should’ve gone in on that highlight, but got sucked out for “one more”