***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***

[silentbutdeadly]

windswell forgot to show up this morning.

soft grovelly waves on the dank farts album. traded some waves with the crew. nothing great but worth paddling out

 

[oeste858]

windswell forgot to show up this morning.

soft grovelly waves on the dank farts album. traded some waves with the crew. nothing great but worth paddling out

Perfect. sounds like I’m heading back just in time for another flat spell

 

[silentbutdeadly]

Perfect. sounds like I’m heading back just in time for another flat spell

I would just move to the jersey shore and give me all your boards.

 

[MathDebater]

That's a nice leather man purse buddy. Looks like you're fitting right in.

I‘m assimilating rapidly. I’m feeling really called to move up and open a fine leather goods (murse/mandal) and pizza stain hipster board boutique.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

did you have a sour at cascade yet? Love that beer

 

[silentbutdeadly]

oh and mr bater, with all due respect, we need to talk about this murse

 

[MathDebater]

What if I call it a fin pouch?

 

[silentbutdeadly]

What if I call it a fin pouch?

nice try

 

[MathDebater]

did you have a sour at cascade yet? Love that beer

Not yet, pacing myself for the wedding tonight. I’ll check it out tomorrow!

 

[Sam_K]

After a few heavy hold downs and smashes I started paddling to exactly the wrong places. It was beyond bad luck, I was so consistently positioning myself away from where the wave would inevitably break, that it was clear my subconscious knew the right place and then sent me somewhere else. Was the noggin tired of smash city?

Once I realized what was happening I put a stop to it. As soon as I had an urge to go somewhere, I just didn't. I stayed put and the wave came to me. Got a beautiful wave and I did two top turns with the Twinsman that I felt were at the very upper range of what I can ever achieve.

 

[Senor Sopa]

Early afternoon - check
Small windswell - check
Warm, clear water - check
Went down to Boulders. The standards are so low here, it's rare to be disappointed. Plenty of warbly takeoffs. Even at waist high, there was some backwash lumpiness. All takeoffs had a strange 2-parter. This means the time when you catch the wave and when you can start actually getting going is different. Umm, less than smooth transitions. Anyways, it was all about length of ride, i.e. milk it til you sink. Shared the water with 4 others. One duu on a glider was just riding while sitting, I was jealous of the speed he could obtain on nothing.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

smaller than yesterday which is odd cause there appeared to be more swell. overall really bad but two waves on the mitsimmons that were fun. Damn that board is amazing.

 

[Senor Sopa]

smaller than yesterday which is odd cause there appeared to be more swell. overall really bad but two waves on the mitsimmons that were fun. Damn that board is amazing.

Boulders for the win. Jumped up to almost jibbly high, but the period also increased. This made all the difference. This time, it was possible to smoothly get going as soon as feet hit the boar. Phew, I thought I was doomed to eternal kookdom. Only other guy out, looked to me way undervolumed, can't say I actually saw him catch any. Caught 4 that were "memorable", due to actually generating speed. LOL, on one I had to scrub speed mid ride. This place, if it gives you speed, don't F it up, keep it. Last wave gave me an opportunity to bank off the left coming at me, nicely surprised this turned into a fin drifter, unexpected and untried for. WTH, I'll take that to the beach.

Been a while since reportable chit.

Funky chit. I live in Leucadia, we like to "keep it funky"


Funky2 - A different kind of funky. This guy has been living here for last 3-4 months. Yesterday, as I was sitting on the rocks, motivating to paddle out, a ranger pulled up and talked with they guy. Hopefully telling him to split. Here, the duu is on the phone, probably either his real estate agent or his lawyer.



Funny chit
After I took the above pic, I walked past two mom w/kids. All of a sudden, "I'm sorry, I'm sorry". Huh what, LOL, the kid tossed a rock and it got close to me. I wouldn't even have noticed if they said nothing. They got tense when I came down. LOL, only to hear my story of when my kids were young and almost beaning tons of peeps with rocks. I told the kid to keep tossing rocks and that I expected to see him on TV someday in the major leagues.

 

[b.r.]

Boulders for the win. Jumped up to almost jibbly high, but the period also increased. This made all the difference. This time, it was possible to smoothly get going as soon as feet hit the boar. Phew, I thought I was doomed to eternal kookdom. Only other guy out, looked to me way undervolumed, can't say I actually saw him catch any. Caught 4 that were "memorable", due to actually generating speed. LOL, on one I had to scrub speed mid ride. This place, if it gives you speed, don't F it up, keep it. Last wave gave me an opportunity to bank off the left coming at me, nicely surprised this turned into a fin drifter, unexpected and untried for. WTH, I'll take that to the beach.

Been a while since reportable chit.

Funky chit. I live in Leucadia, we like to "keep it funky"
View attachment 134592

Funky2 - A different kind of funky. This guy has been living here for last 3-4 months. Yesterday, as I was sitting on the rocks, motivating to paddle out, a ranger pulled up and talked with they guy. Hopefully telling him to split. Here, the duu is on the phone, probably either his real estate agent or his lawyer.
View attachment 134593


Funny chit
After I took the above pic, I walked past two mom w/kids. All of a sudden, "I'm sorry, I'm sorry". Huh what, LOL, the kid tossed a rock and it got close to me. I wouldn't even have noticed if they said nothing. They got tense when I came down. LOL, only to hear my story of when my kids were young and almost beaning tons of peeps with rocks. I told the kid to keep tossing rocks and that I expected to see him on TV someday in the major leagues.

What is this funky place that you speak of?

 

[Aruka]

Checked every nook and cranny for 30 miles before settling on a mushy, peaky, jetty wave. Symphony with piggyback keels felt perfect for the conditions. Couple other guys from the area were struggling on thrusters but the simmons was flying for me. First time with these fins and i think its my favorite set yet. The peak was breaking in a big patch of foam. It was like surfing in a heady beer. I had a lot of fun for how marginal the swell was. Good vibes talking story with one of the old locs after the session. 70 years old and still surf stoked.

 

[oeste858]

Checked every nook and cranny for 30 miles before settling on a mushy, peaky, jetty wave. Symphony with piggyback keels felt perfect for the conditions. Couple other guys from the area were struggling on thrusters but the simmons was flying for me. First time with these fins and i think its my favorite set yet. The peak was breaking in a big patch of foam. It was like surfing in a heady beer. I had a lot of fun for how marginal the swell was. Good vibes talking story with one of the old locs after the session. 70 years old and still surf stoked.

good call with the piggyback fins. They've been perfect in the asym symphony.

 

[Aruka]

good call with the piggyback fins. They've been perfect in the asym symphony.

Yeah cheers for the recommendation smarty pants

 

[Senor Sopa]

What is this funky place that you speak of?

South of BR land, too bad the beach doesn't look like this right now. The spots at top of picture are arguably worse than Cracks/Boulders zone.

 

[doc_flavonoid]

for all the heart swell, surfing with ur kid kinda sucks. hard to get past dipping into daddycoach when they struggle...

bad for them and worse for you. mostly i try to ignore the kid but last weeks bombing south found her struggling to get to the spot. couldnt help myself>opened my mouth>gave direction>frustration insued>inevitably

couple days later south had all but passed and we went to a sunny little protected longboard spot i try to avoid (crowds) but she loves cause regardless of the number of heads in the water she can get her alpha female on.

i drift off looking for something thatll stand up and see her in the distance locking in wave after wave wondering why no one drops in on her and this old man cant buy a wave to hisself. so just to satisfy my ego i work my way back up the break and burn her on my last one outta there.

which brings us to yesterday mid day at one peak beach. kinda crowded. waves are kinda frustrating as they peak/backoff/throw/slowdown and finally stand up for a little bliss. i was grovelling the inside runners when she showed up and pulled out a wavestorm. oh fuckme here we go

spent another hour or so watching her do laps lacing waves from the top of the bar through to the inside. even burned me once to even the score. got out.
walk of shame past four crusters posted up in the lot. went something like this-

"thats ur daughter right"

"looks like the wavestorm is the tool of the day"

"if i had a daughter, i wouldnt let her ride one of those"

to which i joined in- " i kno she fuckin annoying right"

 

[Bob Dobbalina]

View attachment 134644

I had an interesting night on that path years ago.