***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***

[000]

today had every single dork who was following me the previous day or 2, plus a bunch more. still closeout sets mostly, but the insiders were often too mushy
still got my share, but had to watch that bald asshole (whos new home is my peak) get a bunch of good ones and do nothing on them. so dedicated to surfing, yet totally talentless
i still got my share but it was pissin me off out there

 

[Lowqi2]

Same spot as yesterday, which was a bit more powerful and textured. Today was all-time for this spot. A bit less consistent but cleaner . Lots of peaky left and got a surprise long right that was nice. Saw a 6’ shark breached next to a guy on the outside - kept my toes up for the rest of the session.
Grateful for being able to surf so many days in a row. iStock

 

[doc_flavonoid]

5 days. 5 surfs. wish i could have doubled down for a couple but at my age you pay.

generally been avoiding the self fellate of posting sessions but since the old blind dog called me out for being too negative and not engaging in the circle jerk that is the community (hate that word) surf journal, i figured i owe him one or 5.

so in order.

saturday- fading south energy from the last couple combined swells along with a bunch of northwest wind found me doing a little drive for waves (aka putting time in). scored a shift change at the neighbors south spot. crowd light. 3 out. more in the lot suiting up as i was leaving so good timing on my part. got waves and showed my face without pinching the locals. rode the 10-0 mid 90's dt. fun chest high runners. bit more nose than optimum for the conditions but fun enough.

sunday- hit up my "local" (and yea when your a transplant that has lived over a "spot" for 30+ years you get to call it that). was not great. pretty bumpy. really windy. but had a friend out with me groveling inside runners along with a couple rando boogers out the back waiting for non existent set waves. got a couple but felt like i didnt surf well and failed to scratch the itch. best part was the water clarity. crystal clear. trippy seeing all the rocks wiz undeneath through the inside bowl. rode the 6-2 twinny

monday- back to my local (see above). with conditions much improved. new grunty long period swell energy. blue skies light winds. long lulls between sets but enough inbetweeners to keep busy. water wasnt too cold. crowd was up from the previous day. 5 out when i paddled so i made 6. kinda over the top actually for a one take off spot and lully south. alpha dog friend of mine was already out. hes a tranny too. my junior by 7 or 8 years but being around since '88 hes got a couple years seniority on me so i defer (see knowing ur place). anywho. he see me coming and starts right in on sounding three of the guys to the beach. never fails. he is relentless, doesnt give a fuck, and as kneelo the last guy you want to mess with sans fins. 6-2 twinny again. felt a touch squirrelly on the bigger sets but overall great session on a number of levels.

tuesday-peasoup fog and onshores to go aling with solid s swell numbers. did some driving. pretty much a ghost town everywhere. nobody out anywhere that i could see. checked some spots. saw some waves. notably pussed out on soloing one particulary sketchy set up. decided to work for a bit and wait it out. got a few txt's regarding time and place for a very novelty, very heavy, very sketchy s swell magnet.that i have never surfed.
complete with blind fog and a crew of 5 it did not disappoint. check that fuckin spot off the bucket list. rode the 9-0 parmy.

wednesday- back to the neighbors saturday spot. significant swell in the water this time around. bombing actually. local crowd of 10-15 or so rotating around a couple reefs with 6ish takeoff zones. did the guest thing. chatted in the lot. smiled and defered in the water. i was feeling a bit worn down from the previous evenings session but i surfed competently and avoided pressing the issue. other than a couple grumps everyone was pleasant, seemed not bummed to see me and i got more than my share. so a win for showing ur face and not acting like an asshole. water was freezing though. rode the 7-0 christenson

 

[Senor Sopa]

Man, I do not have the patience to deal with a crowd of 50 dudes. If there’s more than 25, 8x outta 10, I’ll go to a lesser-quality spot just to get more waves. My sessions are usually pretty short, so I can’t risk getting totally skunked.

LOL, This whole zone is a lesser quality spot. I paddled up to the most least quality spot, to get skunked. If you're already out there, your choices are limited. Couple hundred yards between spots.

Went back to same spot on Tuesday, only a handful of people out. LOL, still didn't help the wave count. Waves were basically swamping the coast. Super, duper difficult to be in good spot, too far out, too far in, too far over, etc. I like to call this spot "Grandmas", This session, she was chasing me with a hot frying pan.

I must be doing it wrong, help
No storage container nor poncho, only one towel, dirty underwear, redcups up front, no boar bag.


Leash string looks correct

 

[oeste858]

Poncho probably would’ve helped your lineup positioning.

 

[doc_flavonoid]

how much dakine pay for the product placement?

 

[tedshred5]

softer SSW swell remnants at the usual. RNF96 with Aipa twins & trailer works in most anything. got 1 frontside bottom turn and pump down the line that made the session worth it. I still struggle with my first pump to get out-the-gate speed going backside on a twin, even with a training wheel.

 

[000]

today was bullshit. still said 3' at 16 sec but it was like one 3' wave every 16 minutes. and many of those closed out. but nobody followed me
until i switched spots and got a few ripples, 2 guys joined me
but i think they were tourists cuz they were more about talking than surfing
then it took forever to get a wave in, and it wasnt good
lots of effort for a handfull of worthy waves
lots of minutes being shark bait while no waves came

 

[Bob Dobbalina]

I was in SoCal, but surfed one day during this run of swell.

Paddled out Monday morning on the low tide at Oceanside Pier.
Lots of fun waves, lots of closeouts. Pretty much like every time I surfed their as a kid.
Some old friends, groms, future women's CTer, but mellow crowd wise.

Surfed for 40 minutes, barely got one and the treadmill paddle was in effect.. Got out to do the run around and the wife and baby were back from their walk so I went in.

I've always had a love/hate relationship with that wave.

Now I'm back in Foglandia and it's small, blown out, and cold.

 

[Senor Sopa]

I was in SoCal, but surfed one day during this run of swell.

Paddled out Monday morning on the low tide at Oceanside Pier.
Lots of fun waves, lots of closeouts. Pretty much like every time I surfed their as a kid.
Some old friends, groms, future women's CTer, but mellow crowd wise.

Surfed for 40 minutes, barely got one and the treadmill paddle was in effect.. Got out to do the run around and the wife and baby were back from their walk so I went in.

I've always had a love/hate relationship with that wave.

Now I'm back in Foglandia and it's small, blown out, and cold.

Hah, I'm not the only one with low wave count

 

[MathDebater]

Oof. Hard to be motivated for onshore smol waves after this week.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

Oof. Hard to be motivated for onshore smol waves after this week.

I looked at three spots and didn't even paddle at desperation bar. yuck

 

[Aruka]

i rate the historic code red south swell 2.0 a 4/10. plenty of fun sessions but none of our sand bars are very good and we had fog all day during the peak of the swell. also it was crowded. my knee held up though and i did get a good shack at a secret spot that turned on for a few hours. rode my 6-8 townsend one session, 6-10 blackbird one session and then the i72 for the other 3 sessions.

surfed a left up inside a rivermouth that I haven't surfed in years. fun waves but same deal, lots of people. i think it was pretty much one huge group from ca. the locals were bumming. once i figured out who was who i did pretty well and it was nice to surf a somewhat long peeling wave for a change, even if it was kind of imperfect.

looking at the forecast i see work, work, work and more work.

 

[Tanner]

I looked at three spots and didn't even paddle at desperation bar. yuck

I was at our usual around 5:30 and promptly turned right around and went back home.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

tomorrow paddling no matter what. Come bug me.

 

[MathDebater]

I’m headed to Oregon to go snake Ruk’s waves (aka go to a wedding) so maybe things will look up at home.

 

[rowjimmytour]

I’m headed to Oregon to go snake Ruk’s waves (aka go to a wedding) so maybe things will look up at home.

Make sure to ask @Aruka for a tour of his waterfalls and then when a topless hippie gal puts on his robe and lights his pipe ask for a quiver tour and take pics for erbb

 

[toowalled]

im surfed out after being injured stokedoh yeah and stamps makes the best boards

 

[MathDebater]

Just saw Aruka and some of his homies in Portlandia

 

[Aruka]

That's a nice leather man purse buddy. Looks like you're fitting right in.