***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***

Bob Dobbalina

Michael Peterson status
Feb 23, 2016
2,487
2,289
113
Desperation session completed Saturday am. South wind, windswell, shithouse.I couldn't believe how crowded it was at one point.

Surfed the North corner with everyone and a few whales. Full bait ball action going down with all manor of animal feeding on the dropping tide flush. DIvebombing birds, a few whales, and sea lions were all up on it in the lineup. Caught a few fish to the face while duckdiving at one point and one of the whales cruised inside of the guys sitting out the back. Lots of classic Kelly's "yeah, yeah, no" wedges that pop up for a vertical drop then close out or shoulder off to nothing. But it was nice to get out.
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
4,314
6,014
113
eastside oahu
Dawned the regular. It was smaller than it’s been but for a brief pulse of head high waves. Mostly just talked crap with the crew and counted the reasons Jerome didn’t click with his brand new $950 FW Sweet Potato. What made it worse was he traded off with Dana and Dana was having a blast on it.

Dddean paddled out his brand new Daniel Jones fish pictured below. He asked if I wanted to try and after he got a few waves I said ok. Boar is small 5’4 x 20 x 2 1/2. No volume cause hand shaped I’m guessing. Gotta say it’s well built and a wall hanger. Glassed heavier like fish aficionados like, no tail pad but luckily Dddean had a leash.

Tried to get a couple insiders but it’s smaller than what I usually ride so I missed them. I paddled outside and told everyone I need a set. Jerome was paddling and I yelled let me go you’re just going to blow it anyway. Haha. I stood up right on the swallow and ended up slipping and belly boarding the wave. The crew was laughing as I told them it’s a boogie boarders boar so I boogied that wave. Haha.

Second wave got a runner and stood up in the right spot, drew out the bottom turn but the wave stretched out and I went out into the flat to get around but did a thruster type bottom turn and felt a little slip and lost momentum to get around. Last wave got a roll-in to double up that I took off perfectly angled. I pumped but more roller coaster style and did a snap. Boar pivoted around nicely. Paddled back out and we traded boars back.

Daniel makes nice boars. Still thinking about getting a Rick Kane from him but not as temped as before. One of his close friends told me 4 weeks from ordering. Temperature rising. We’ll see.

337D89C2-5FD8-49CD-8C37-CC40CB1AEE14.jpeg
337D89C2-5FD8-49CD-8C37-CC40CB1AEE14.jpeg
 

oeste858

Miki Dora status
Sep 11, 2017
4,626
11,391
113
San Diego, CA
Late morning softer onshores at the reef so I did some emails in my car for a bit to let the tide fill in some. About waist-high; I grabbed SBD’s 5’9 DA album for max gravel shred. Boar felt great again: catches anything, and allowed me to knit together the quick drop n snap - soft section cutback - pump to reach inside section. a lot of the waves didn’t quite have enough push to reach the punchy inside section with much inertia to pull in / float / fs reo so I kooked most of the end of my waves. But then again, most guys out weren’t even getting to the inside.
Think a bit of curve in the outline gives it more versatility than expected. Felt really fluid and easy. Gotta give it back before I talk myself into ordering another graveler. Oh, and don’t tell SBD that I still can’t get the mismatched twin + trailer out of the boar…
60C0AAB7-1C57-4D30-8B06-D0FA3D9C0078.gif
 

Aruka

Kelly Slater status
Feb 23, 2010
9,868
14,910
113
PNW
The south swell wasn't looking great at my local. I think the bar is kind of funky. It does not bode well for this summer. Luckily another spot was looking alright and we hopped on it before the wind came up. The water is freezing again and I forgot sunscreen so it wasn't a long session. Maybe an hour. Pretty fun though. Rode the twinsman and got a few really fun rights. Not all of them were doing it but I managed to find myself in the spot for a couple of the better waves that came through. Usually i'm the frother going for the insiders but since the twinsman doesn't grovel that well I just tried to be patient and it paid off. My last wave was easily the best of the session. A carve and a snap on a nice steep face. F me the water is cold tho. Must be 48 or lower already. I couldn't even bring myself to rinse off in the waterfall on the hike out.
 

Sam_K

OTF status
Dec 11, 2019
341
825
93
Paddled out to biggest Ulu of the year so far. Swell angle wasn't great, tide wasn't great, but a large swell can usually brute force some fun into even subpar conditions.

Caught a few long rides at the corner then I paddled to Bombie. After ten minutes, lo! on the horizon! Darkness. The five of us take off at max speed for safety. The aqueous mountains are as though the three hundred foot worms from Dune are tunneling below the surface, pushing mountainous ridges of water into the air. They were the biggest waves I've ever seen in person (from the lineup anyways) in my life. It was a reminder that everything I've done up to now is amateur, hobbiest big wave surfing. To paddle into a mountain such as we all desperately paddled away from, next level. I don't know if I'll ever do it or not.

Just that one freak set, it never happened again. Rest of the session was normal big and I paddled in after a three hour jaunt at the outer reaches of the reef. A great day in my books.
 

Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
2,232
2,568
113
Innzid
Sam wins the day!

Had 2 hours between work and taking the missus (20 years anniversary yesterday, woohoo!) to the airport. Points were HH to slight OH, but talked myself into the offshore bar. Long paddle, far from perfect, but got a few.

Vizsla's snoring and I just had a simple pasta/spinach/chorizo with a glass of NZ Pinot Noir.

Life's not bad.
 

SD_Dan

OTF status
Jan 23, 2019
196
487
63
First session on my smaller Plasmic. Got a couple little rights but the crowd was on it. First impression is that this one fits me much better for how I was wanting to use it. That being said I’ve been surfing my midlength for a month so I need to up the paddle fitness.
 

Havoc

Phil Edwards status
May 23, 2016
5,754
8,237
113
in da hood next to paradise
fun waves in south oc. crowded but semi cordial with some decent rotation going. south swell pulses every 10-15 mins. got 20 waves in 2 hrs. got a nice fs wrap on the chilli and a couple bs carves. took a few waves to get used to that boar again as it wants to be surfed like a thruster. stocked and surfed out as i'm old now.
 

Retropete

Miki Dora status
Jan 20, 2006
4,846
2,270
113
Sunny Coast Qld Australia
Paddled out to biggest Ulu of the year so far. Swell angle wasn't great, tide wasn't great, but a large swell can usually brute force some fun into even subpar conditions.

Caught a few long rides at the corner then I paddled to Bombie. After ten minutes, lo! on the horizon! Darkness. The five of us take off at max speed for safety. The aqueous mountains are as though the three hundred foot worms from Dune are tunneling below the surface, pushing mountainous ridges of water into the air. They were the biggest waves I've ever seen in person (from the lineup anyways) in my life. It was a reminder that everything I've done up to now is amateur, hobbiest big wave surfing. To paddle into a mountain such as we all desperately paddled away from, next level. I don't know if I'll ever do it or not.

Just that one freak set, it never happened again. Rest of the session was normal big and I paddled in after a three hour jaunt at the outer reaches of the reef. A great day in my books.
This day? Did you get any screen time?
 

Sam_K

OTF status
Dec 11, 2019
341
825
93
This day? Did you get any screen time?
Yes sir to this day, no sir to screen time. Looks like he started shooting just as I was leaving. Let me tell you about that opening shot with white shirt guy, that dude has balls. He's riding a dinky like 6'8 or something crazy small and was catching bombs, mad props to him.

And the jet ski guys were actually nice, they came around to everyone (all five of us) in the lineup to ask if it was OK if they caught some waves and they promised to pick us up on the inside if we got caught. Seemed like a pro surfer looking fellow on back of the ski, didn't recognize him.
 

trifish

Nep status
Sep 23, 2009
867
2,281
93
Shred City
Dawned the regular. It was smaller than it’s been but for a brief pulse of head high waves. Mostly just talked crap with the crew and counted the reasons Jerome didn’t click with his brand new $950 FW Sweet Potato. What made it worse was he traded off with Dana and Dana was having a blast on it.

Dddean paddled out his brand new Daniel Jones fish pictured below. He asked if I wanted to try and after he got a few waves I said ok. Boar is small 5’4 x 20 x 2 1/2. No volume cause hand shaped I’m guessing. Gotta say it’s well built and a wall hanger. Glassed heavier like fish aficionados like, no tail pad but luckily Dddean had a leash.

Tried to get a couple insiders but it’s smaller than what I usually ride so I missed them. I paddled outside and told everyone I need a set. Jerome was paddling and I yelled let me go you’re just going to blow it anyway. Haha. I stood up right on the swallow and ended up slipping and belly boarding the wave. The crew was laughing as I told them it’s a boogie boarders boar so I boogied that wave. Haha.

Second wave got a runner and stood up in the right spot, drew out the bottom turn but the wave stretched out and I went out into the flat to get around but did a thruster type bottom turn and felt a little slip and lost momentum to get around. Last wave got a roll-in to double up that I took off perfectly angled. I pumped but more roller coaster style and did a snap. Boar pivoted around nicely. Paddled back out and we traded boars back.

Daniel makes nice boars. Still thinking about getting a Rick Kane from him but not as temped as before. One of his close friends told me 4 weeks from ordering. Temperature rising. We’ll see.

View attachment 130222
View attachment 130222
I got confused for a second scrolling down and thought it was finless. Double post trickery