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***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter Kento
- Start date
Maiden voyage on the varial twigsman. I missed the window I wanted to surf today and was relegated to my high tide reform. I was a little hesitant to surf smaller softer waves for my first session on the board but stock was too high. Only one other person out, but they went in pretty quickly. I connected from the first wave and was able to get lots of fun sets. The spring of the varial is very noticeable, super lively. I did some of the best turns I have in a bit on the couple that stood up. Only bad thing is I destroyed my toe walking down the cliff and had to feel a huge skin flap dangling around the whole session.
Punchy Monday morning until the tide killed it. Which one of you was carefully primping his blonde man-bun behind his new truck before prancing out by the O-side pier with the airbrushed Pyzel?
This morning was ok. Racy sections, few places to hit the lip. The dredge seems to have blown-up the sandbars.
This morning was ok. Racy sections, few places to hit the lip. The dredge seems to have blown-up the sandbars.
Spent first half of my surf window trying to jam in a trailer fin (as gently as possible) into SBD's slot. Damn it was tight, but I finally got it in there after using some lube. 
When I saw the rounded diamond tail of the DA Album graveler, I wanted to try it as a twin + training wheel, so I put the Muchacho sides in, but the trailer would just not go in all the way... and then I couldn't even get it back out. Nervous for it to pop out and the tip to hit the glass. Finally wriggled it out, tried the rasta trailer, and it went it slightly easier, but not without a lot of effort. The middle of the box is just narrow / tight.
Surf was a bit more than I expected when I pulled up to main reef, but I was looking forward to trying it out. WH-CH frothy onshore wedges coming through with about 15 dudes out. I didn't have much time, so stuck to the inside right and tried to get some reforms and double ups that snuck through. Not much open face to work with, but the boar was fun and spicy. Did what I wanted it to, a couple fs slashes, and stuck one churning late drop on the inside bowl when I expected to go down. The boar reminded me most of my Gremlin swallowtail, both underarm and the way it surfed. I'd guess the rocker and outline are not too far off. The dark arts build is pretty perfect for a boar like this, think my next graveler will be in DA... probably upgrade my PU gremlin at some point.
As I texted him after:
Good news. The mismatched Muchacho fronts and Rasta trailer worked well.
Bad news. They’re pretty much glassed in there. I’m scared to remove.
It was stuck like this for 10 min. Stressful...
When I saw the rounded diamond tail of the DA Album graveler, I wanted to try it as a twin + training wheel, so I put the Muchacho sides in, but the trailer would just not go in all the way... and then I couldn't even get it back out. Nervous for it to pop out and the tip to hit the glass. Finally wriggled it out, tried the rasta trailer, and it went it slightly easier, but not without a lot of effort. The middle of the box is just narrow / tight.
Surf was a bit more than I expected when I pulled up to main reef, but I was looking forward to trying it out. WH-CH frothy onshore wedges coming through with about 15 dudes out. I didn't have much time, so stuck to the inside right and tried to get some reforms and double ups that snuck through. Not much open face to work with, but the boar was fun and spicy. Did what I wanted it to, a couple fs slashes, and stuck one churning late drop on the inside bowl when I expected to go down. The boar reminded me most of my Gremlin swallowtail, both underarm and the way it surfed. I'd guess the rocker and outline are not too far off. The dark arts build is pretty perfect for a boar like this, think my next graveler will be in DA... probably upgrade my PU gremlin at some point.
As I texted him after:
Good news. The mismatched Muchacho fronts and Rasta trailer worked well.
Bad news. They’re pretty much glassed in there. I’m scared to remove.
It was stuck like this for 10 min. Stressful...
Maybe I’ll let him use my stab premium password
Still walking funny. My slots are tight
Lube (wd40), towell, and rubber mallot works good for stubborn future finsSpent first half of my surf window trying to jam in a trailer fin (as gently as possible) into SBD's slot. Damn it was tight, but I finally got it in there after using some lube.
When I saw the rounded diamond tail of the DA Album graveler, I wanted to try it as a twin + training wheel, so I put the Muchacho sides in, but the trailer would just not go in all the way... and then I couldn't even get it back out. Nervous for it to pop out and the tip to hit the glass. Finally wriggled it out, tried the rasta trailer, and it went it slightly easier, but not without a lot of effort. The middle of the box is just narrow / tight.
Surf was a bit more than I expected when I pulled up to main reef, but I was looking forward to trying it out. WH-CH frothy onshore wedges coming through with about 15 dudes out. I didn't have much time, so stuck to the inside right and tried to get some reforms and double ups that snuck through. Not much open face to work with, but the boar was fun and spicy. Did what I wanted it to, a couple fs slashes, and stuck one churning late drop on the inside bowl when I expected to go down. The boar reminded me most of my Gremlin swallowtail, both underarm and the way it surfed. I'd guess the rocker and outline are not too far off. The dark arts build is pretty perfect for a boar like this, think my next graveler will be in DA... probably upgrade my PU gremlin at some point.
As I texted him after:
Good news. The mismatched Muchacho fronts and Rasta trailer worked well.
Bad news. They’re pretty much glassed in there. I’m scared to remove.
It was stuck like this for 10 min. Stressful...
View attachment 129984
I tweaked my knee a couple weeks ago. Yesterday was my first session since then. Glassy, chunky, beachbreak waves. Not exactly what I would have chosen for my first session back but I wasn't about to drive away after checking so many spots and finally finding something that looked surfy. It was better than it looked. Not that it was perfect but it was juicy and more makeable than I'd expected. It's been ages since I surfed this exact section of beach. It used to be a favorite zone for us and it was nice to get a good session out there just for nostalgia's sake. Rode the Insanity w/ P8 thruster fins. Felt great. I definitely surfed cautiously, or as cautiously as I could given the dumpy nature of the waves. No end section closeout bashes or anything. Got stuck inside a couple times and it was brutal trying to get back out. Non stop thumpers. My paddle fitness did not feel great but otherwise the body felt pretty good. It was amazing to get in the ocean and ride a few waves. Didn't want to push it so I came in after about an hour.
Knee feels okay today but the wind is up so probably no surfing.
Knee feels okay today but the wind is up so probably no surfing.
There’s been a decent south swell in the water since Monday but the onshore wind has torn it up to crap last two days. All day. If we were going thru a weeks long flat spell I’d go out but fortunately it hasn’t come down to that. Wind suppose to get more favorable tomorrow and over the weekend but swell will be in the decline. That’s ok more south swells on the charts.
You're gonna get a truckload of south swell soon! NZ's gonna get pummelled
Super fun gentleman’s hour at the main reef. CH-HH swell with a touch of sideshore/onshore. Twice as good as anywhere around so there was a crowd. A couple randos but mostly familiar faces and overall skill level was high. Nice to catch up with some guys I hadn’t seen in a while. With all those guys out, I knew waves would be scarce, so stuck to inside right from the main pack again- tho much further out than yest.
Definitely some warbles on the face, but fun size and nice to feel some speed and get open face to slash... especially after the last couple weeks of no-shoulder mushburgers. Snagged a few rights. My last one was my biggest and best so I went in on it. Actually took off behind the peak, 20 yards deeper than a local chick on a midlength, but she was so far out on the shoulder she was never really in my way as I did 4 fs carves and slashes, so I didn't even bother to call her off.
Got the 5'10 PUTMST back from its long demo spell, and it felt so good under my feet. I've got a lot of great boars rn but this one is just so intuitive for me. I swear that flat/ concave deck feels like I’m a Lego guy clicking onto the board- cant knock me off. I expected the pu twinsman to come back with some bumps n bruises from the clumsy inlanders who borrowed it, but the much-maligned album glassing has held up well and still looks great. Would love to know which of their 3 glass shops did this one. LOL
Stocked.
Definitely some warbles on the face, but fun size and nice to feel some speed and get open face to slash... especially after the last couple weeks of no-shoulder mushburgers. Snagged a few rights. My last one was my biggest and best so I went in on it. Actually took off behind the peak, 20 yards deeper than a local chick on a midlength, but she was so far out on the shoulder she was never really in my way as I did 4 fs carves and slashes, so I didn't even bother to call her off.
Got the 5'10 PUTMST back from its long demo spell, and it felt so good under my feet. I've got a lot of great boars rn but this one is just so intuitive for me. I swear that flat/ concave deck feels like I’m a Lego guy clicking onto the board- cant knock me off. I expected the pu twinsman to come back with some bumps n bruises from the clumsy inlanders who borrowed it, but the much-maligned album glassing has held up well and still looks great. Would love to know which of their 3 glass shops did this one. LOL
Stocked.
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Brutal! I'm going to need some ice for this burn!
Tried to surf early at the reefs but the tide was too drained out. My buddy and I checked a few spots before we finally went out at the beach. It was better than it looked (pretty bad) but it was steadily improving during the session. I rode the venerial twigsman and had a lot of fun during the short session despite my toe giving me a hard time.
Pyzels. Everyone rides a Pyzel/has a Pyzel sticker on their car. If you don't ride a Pyzel, do you surf?
Just when you thought he was a nice guy.
I can't believe how long he had that think out on loan considering how much he loves it
I guess being called an inlander is a small price to pay for free board rentals
I’m happy for my boars to get an opportunity to experience a higher performance level of surfing than I can provide them, aka my usual #mediumperformance
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