***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***

b.r.

Phil Edwards status
Dec 19, 2003
5,922
3,034
113
Leucadia
www.youtube.com
beautiful afternoons the last couple days at the local low tide reef spots, nothing special size wise, but the conditions were buttery and the Kenson pleasure pig was the right call, easy to catch waves but then stand on the tail tighten up the stance a little and the board goes great, couple of zippy full round house rebounds and a switch foot off the lip were the highlights, this morning is for a foggy hike with the wife and then maybe an arvo sesh again.
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,499
23,099
113
Tower 13
beautiful afternoons the last couple days at the local low tide reef spots, nothing special size wise, but the conditions were buttery and the Kenson pleasure pig was the right call, easy to catch waves but then stand on the tail tighten up the stance a little and the board goes great, couple of zippy full round house rebounds and a switch foot off the lip were the highlights, this morning is for a foggy hike with the wife and then maybe an arvo sesh again.
funny, when I picked up my mitsven, Stu was there and I was telling him that I heard great things about the pleasure pig from you
 

Senor Sopa

Billy Hamilton status
Mar 11, 2015
1,366
2,176
113
Ponto
beautiful afternoons the last couple days at the local low tide reef spots, nothing special size wise, but the conditions were buttery and the Kenson pleasure pig was the right call, easy to catch waves but then stand on the tail tighten up the stance a little and the board goes great, couple of zippy full round house rebounds and a switch foot off the lip were the highlights, this morning is for a foggy hike with the wife and then maybe an arvo sesh again.
O you like the lack of crowds, with the access blocked off and all?
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,276
113
San Diego, CA
Got the green light for a late morning window. Reefs were a no show so opted for crappy knee-WH BB in pee bee. Normally would be on 6'4 PlasmEgg or 8' MiniGlider, but wanted to try out MD's 5'6 x 21 3/4 VS Manta. Waves were pretty bad, mostly one-hitters, floaters, and occasionally get around a section or two. Got a few slashes and one bs wrap that felt good. Last wave was my best as it actually lined up and was able to race/float all the way in before shore break reo.

Going off this one sesh, I don't think I'm a Manta guy. While it was fast down the line and the tail was nice n skatey, I think the down(?) rails didn't quite work for me, and I tend to having a tough time getting a boar >21" rail to rail. Just didn't quite feel like I clicked with it, like I was forcing it into spots on the wave. Guess I prefer my GMM2 or Gremlin which feel more intuitive for me. Stocked to try one finally.

Next up on the graveler wife swap is SBD's DA Album.
 
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MathDebater

Michael Peterson status
Apr 13, 2016
2,584
6,128
113
SD
Yeah, she’s chonky. I expected to feel the same way with the width and girth but it just works for me.
 

MathDebater

Michael Peterson status
Apr 13, 2016
2,584
6,128
113
SD
Quick session between meetings on Oeste's Aipa. I thought I'd test it's limits today, and by that I mean lower limits. I showed up to the grovel arena to pretty meager conditions, even for my expectations. The tide was lower than I expected and it was creating some unmanagable flat spots in the waves. On the plus side no one was out and it was glassy. I caught a bunch of waves in 45 minutes, some fun, some struggle. When I got ones that lined up the board went off, it is so easy to whip around compared to the manta, but it was more of a struggle in the super flat spots. I am going to try larger fins next time (vs the Future Aipa's). When pumping through turbulent areas (boils, broken peaks) I had the fins disconnect a few times.
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,276
113
San Diego, CA
Quick session between meetings on Oeste's Aipa. I thought I'd test it's limits today, and by that I mean lower limits. I showed up to the grovel arena to pretty meager conditions, even for my expectations. The tide was lower than I expected and it was creating some unmanagable flat spots in the waves. On the plus side no one was out and it was glassy. I caught a bunch of waves in 45 minutes, some fun, some struggle. When I got ones that lined up the board went off, it is so easy to whip around compared to the manta, but it was more of a struggle in the super flat spots. I am going to try larger fins next time (vs the Future Aipa's). When pumping through turbulent areas (boils, broken peaks) I had the fins disconnect a few times.
Maybe you’re hopping too hard.
:p
Yeah, it’s not a super-groveler… IMO just has a better-than-expected low end for how spicy it is in waist to chest.
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,107
9,269
113
eastside oahu
Wait, hopping is bad? My surf career is over.
Hopping IS bad. A few years back I came in from a small day at the town regular and a text from Jeannie was waiting for me. It read “NO HOPPING.”

My NS regular can have a soft section just before the end bowl if the swell has too much west in it. I was sitting inside looking for the north double ups and had to watch one of the dawn patrol regulars hop thru that flat section all morning long. It was horrible. Haha.

Dawned the regular this morning. It was small but glassy. The strong trades finally eased off. But by 7:20 it turned onshore. Managed to get a couple of shoulder high nugs go vert and get on rail all without hopping.
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,107
9,269
113
eastside oahu
Dawned the regular. Sets were a little overhead and glassy. Rode the new Striker from HIC. Got some nuggets and some lemons. Some of the bigger waves closed out or broke out to sea.

Dropped in on Malcolm on a nice one. Told him this one’s too good you’re gonna have company. Then the whole inside pack got in the way. Had to straighten out and look for a hole to avoid hitting a girl with a plastic face protector mask on. Her and her bf have been getting in our way consistently. Apparently she’s wearing the face shield cause her boar hit her in the face. So angry old man came out and the whole inside got an earful while the crew at the peak was cracking up. Yelled I’m going to bring a sh*tty boar and run all of you guys over. I looked over at Eddie and told him let me borrow your boar. More snickers. Eddie goes this board doesn’t have any dings. I told him I’ll remedy that real quick. Malcolm’s laughing telling me it’s karma for burning him. Replied I know. He went for a wave and I yelled to the inside better watch out he doesn’t turn as good as me he might not miss you guys this time. The inside crowd moved more to the channel and a guy teaching his kid paddled over to Rockpiles. Haha.

Jesse swam out and got a couple pics. Didn’t really get a good one in front of him.B358F482-2E8E-48B7-B924-D5403592FD09.jpeg

8EA8961C-76B8-4DB0-BC2C-DCA26001B1EA.jpeg