2 turns and a wipeout. weird conds in north oc. managed a hipster style cutback tho but i hate tight pants.
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***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter Kento
- Start date
At least you got wet. My already brief surf windows got taken away for the next few days.
nursery school let us know this morning that our second kid had a covid exposure in their class so they shut it down til next Wed. This is after the first kid’s class was sent home yesterday for an exposure until Monday. So, I’m trying to do as much work as I can from home while entertaining a 3 and a 5 year old. FML.
nursery school let us know this morning that our second kid had a covid exposure in their class so they shut it down til next Wed. This is after the first kid’s class was sent home yesterday for an exposure until Monday. So, I’m trying to do as much work as I can from home while entertaining a 3 and a 5 year old. FML.
hipsters don't wear tight pants nowadays, they wear baggy mom jeans
you're welcome you drop your kids off at the SBD compound tomorrow and they can jump on the trampoline while I work. Don't sue me though if they get hurt
been there done that. sux bra. lemme borrow sum boars while ur away
Was right there with you two weeks ago. Except that I ended up getting COVID a few days later. Hopefully you avoid that fate. And obviously, yes, the waves started to pump as soon as I tested positive.
going to costco tomoro wish me luck
started out crappy and inconsistent then turned on. rode the 6'1 cause soon it will probably stay in the garage most days. weak windswell waves with the occasional sets that would throw. Some good roundies, carves and snaps but the hight light was three nice coverups (2 made).
Took O’s aipa out at the desperation bar. I wasn’t sold on surfing this morning but my buddy roped me in. It was more fun than it looked. The board is wild, it Feels small under arm and paddling but catches waves like a champ. It is super loose, which was mostly fun but I did slide out a few times. I’m looking forward to trying it at my usual summer reef spot on a small day to try A few find out but definitely stoked on it and could see adding one to the quiver at some point.
Also, the custom micro tail kick is money, way tiger shreds.
Also, the custom micro tail kick is money, way tiger shreds.
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Clean, but uuuuber soft at dawn. Most waves wouldn't stand up and break at all.
Got just a couple that did on the Manta and did some little wraps and one fun inside closeout section
smack. Hadn't surfed that board in a long time and on those couple randos was reminded how
fun it is. Would have really only been a fun session on a log though.
Got just a couple that did on the Manta and did some little wraps and one fun inside closeout section
smack. Hadn't surfed that board in a long time and on those couple randos was reminded how
fun it is. Would have really only been a fun session on a log though.
Yeh its trippy when your paddling it around. Its like your on a hpsb with the nose flip in your sight but there is so much thickness through the middle and out the back. I've had guys tell me they cant believe i'm catching those small waves on a potato chip, than I jump off the board so they can see the tail/back half. All they see is that thinned out nose paddling around the line up. I always found the rotation trippy on it. Like it pivots higher up and tighter than you would expect but in a good way.
I've been stuck on this moonstone for the past month. 1 board quiver. Have used it in 2ft to a couple feet overhead. I really wish the nose just had a little extra flip towards the tip to free it more. My only complaint. One of those bigger/sloppy days it caught some chop at mach speed and turned me into a skipping stone. The distance traveled skipping off my belly was pretty spectacular.
wasnt worth going out today
i am told it got very cold again
i am told it got very cold again
At the beachbreak this afternoon with the fam. Drained out onshore dribble. Couldn’t even motivate to paddle out on MD’s manta. Maybe mañana
Probably a pretty nice day at the beach though. Beats boiling 15 minutes inland Like I did!
soft clean runners at one the the OG bars. Maiden voyage on the mitsven:
THIS BOARD IS AMAZING
THIS BOARD IS AMAZING