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***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter Kento
- Start date
Whatever direction you are going, that hand is on the front corner, opposite hand goes halfway down the rail. The hands just keep the board under you; torso weighting the appropriate rail is what does the deed. It will not be easy to get in early enough to hold a rail with no swimfins. The 808 people going standup boogie at OTW/Backdoor, Half Point, etc. are next next level.
Lots of people can't afford sticks and/or their local is a shorebreak or complete closeout. Speed-cracks and floaters are not as fun as off-the-lip spins, rolls, ARS, etc.
Still others have (or had) access to uncrowded slab waves.
Dear diary,
Today is day 4 of 2023 and I still suck at the sarfboarding. I believe it to be due to using a leash string without enough volume, but cannot be certain at this time. Will swap the string on my Mr. Pipeland hand shaped board from Costco and report back.
Today is day 4 of 2023 and I still suck at the sarfboarding. I believe it to be due to using a leash string without enough volume, but cannot be certain at this time. Will swap the string on my Mr. Pipeland hand shaped board from Costco and report back.
Cheers @Sharkbiscuit
I found one youtube vid that said leading hand on wave side corner of boog, is that how you do it? I was just putting my hand on the front without thinking too much about it.I have a fairly good leg kick which I used to compensate for my weak stringy arms, so I use a fair bit of leg kick to get into waves on my HP shortboar. I could easily kick the oversize 42" boog into the peaky gulf of Thailand windswell and stay on the face of the wave without flippers, however I can imagine on days when its hard to surf back in Oz its going to be even harder to get a 3' 6" boog in early enough. That's a full 2' shorter than my HP shortie, albeit wider/stubbier. I could comfortably sit astride the boog like I do on a surfboar while waiting for waves. I was unable to standup on it. Too slippery without wax and even if it was waxed got a feeling I wouldn't have been able to do it anyway. I am keen to give the boog a go back in Oz, on the smaller rubbish days.
The unwaxed and unwrapped Maui & Sons got loaded onto the plane at the open air regional airport without drama. We were directed straight to the special assistance counter. We pointed at the leash loop string to attach the baggage label, but the counter attendant just stuck the sticky tag on the deck surface. The 39" waxed Rad Bug packed on the hull surface of my New Flyer with a layer of bubble wrap to stop wax transfer. The Creatures of Leisure bag has the length written on the handle. I sometimes get asked how long the boar is, so I can just point at the handle which says 5' 6" / 1.68m. Its just a day bag, not the thicker travel versions. Boars were treated well, while waiting to board I could see they were top loaded onto the baggage trolley. Then they were unloaded and put aside while the other baggage from the trolley got loaded into the aircraft, finally they were boarded last of all. No one else was travelling with wave riding equipment.
Possibly my imagination, but the Maui & Sons appears to have acquired a little extra rocker. There are some small wrinkles in the soft deck top surface and towards the end of the holiday a faint crease appeared across the underneath. Possibly my attempts to skim it - I didn't stamp it into the sand as I quickly found out water drops were necessary, so either it was from plowing water when hitting incoming wave bumps or maybe from getting a belting in the shore break. It was used leashless.
Was 12 straight days of being in the water every day, usually twice a day with only one day of rest, My wife liked a lie in during the morning and booged just the arvos. Normally I can't do that many sessions without rest days, but I was not pushing myself anywhere near as hard as I would on my surf days back home. Partly because the first 5 days I was weakened from food poisoning and not up to much. I think I know how cstreet feels from his lectin allergy now - all my body felt achey/tender from the toxins. Fully recovered from the food poisoning in the latter part of the trip. Got 1 1/2hrs of massage back in Bangkok, the most sports oriented Thail massage I have had so far - my wife and I pointed to the muscles that were sore from the exertion and they got worked on with extra treatment,
Sun/heat turns the things into floppy bogmuffins, so if you're actually trying to get down the line that's no bueno. Maybe one with a stringer(s). I would suggest giving the boog a go in closeouts/shorebreak; small/crap surf is generally not ideal for prone riding and dropknee/standup is often done to make waves lacking pop in the lip MOAR fun.Cheers @Sharkbiscuit
I have a fairly good leg kick which I used to compensate for my weak stringy arms, so I use a fair bit of leg kick to get into waves on my HP shortboar. I could easily kick the oversize 42" boog into the peaky gulf of Thailand windswell and stay on the face of the wave without flippers, however I can imagine on days when its hard to surf back in Oz its going to be even harder to get a 3' 6" boog in early enough. That's a full 2' shorter than my HP shortie, albeit wider/stubbier. I could comfortably sit astride the boog like I do on a surfboar while waiting for waves. I was unable to standup on it. Too slippery without wax and even if it was waxed got a feeling I wouldn't have been able to do it anyway. I am keen to give the boog a go back in Oz, on the smaller rubbish days.
The unwaxed and unwrapped Maui & Sons got loaded onto the plane at the open air regional airport without drama. We were directed straight to the special assistance counter. We pointed at the leash loop string to attach the baggage label, but the counter attendant just stuck the sticky tag on the deck surface. The 39" waxed Rad Bug packed on the hull surface of my New Flyer with a layer of bubble wrap to stop wax transfer. The Creatures of Leisure bag has the length written on the handle. I sometimes get asked how long the boar is, so I can just point at the handle which says 5' 6" / 1.68m. Its just a day bag, not the thicker travel versions. Boars were treated well, while waiting to board I could see they were top loaded onto the baggage trolley. Then they were unloaded and put aside while the other baggage from the trolley got loaded into the aircraft, finally they were boarded last of all. No one else was travelling with wave riding equipment.
Possibly my imagination, but the Maui & Sons appears to have acquired a little extra rocker. There are some small wrinkles in the soft deck top surface and towards the end of the holiday a faint crease appeared across the underneath. Possibly my attempts to skim it - I didn't stamp it into the sand as I quickly found out water drops were necessary, so either it was from plowing water when hitting incoming wave bumps or maybe from getting a belting in the shore break. It was used leashless.
Was 12 straight days of being in the water every day, usually twice a day with only one day of rest, My wife liked a lie in during the morning and booged just the arvos. Normally I can't do that many sessions without rest days, but I was not pushing myself anywhere near as hard as I would on my surf days back home. Partly because the first 5 days I was weakened from food poisoning and not up to much. I think I know how cstreet feels from his lectin allergy now - all my body felt achey/tender from the toxins. Fully recovered from the food poisoning in the latter part of the trip. Got 1 1/2hrs of massage back in Bangkok, the most sports oriented Thail massage I have had so far - my wife and I pointed to the muscles that were sore from the exertion and they got worked on with extra treatment,
View attachment 145150
Australia is home to many excellent slabs that would be exceedingly difficult to ride on a stick. Swimfins don't exactly break the bank and they don't break easily either.